Monday, May 19, 2014

Stage 12: Alcuescar to Caceres, 41km~, 25C, 7.5 hours

A Change is in the Air!

Seriously, we were locked in our dorm at 9pm and told it was bed time...we all looked at each other, and commented that I hadn't been sent to bed this early in almost 40 years!  This morning they let us inmates out promptly at 7am so we could get on with our wanderings. However, later during the day I met up with 2 Spanish ladies who were in the monastery last night, but who were strangely absent at departure time. The fact that they walk much slower than me would suggest that they enjoyed home court advantge and departed before 6am. Hmmmm. No real problem, but I too would have liked to be allowed out on good behaviour...after all, I helped with the dishes after the communal dinner. I had thought about tying all the sheets together, but we were on the 4th floor, so kind of let that idea slide.

Woke to find a weather change today...the first time in 2 weeks that I haven't been greeted with beautiful sunny skies...what's that all about? So no sunrise photo today, but I do have a sunset photo from last night and a shot of the lovely little town where I stayed...
Taken from the bathroom window no less;)
As you can tell it was another long stretch today, complicated by 30 k/h winds coming in from the west...that's my left as I travel north. Actually had to put on my chin strap so I didn't loose the hat! Looked very cool with that look...take my word for it. 

The walk today was very exciting! Started off without breakfast, but no fear I prepared myself by taking my dessert from the night before (2 oranges) with me plus I had some mountain mix and a Cliff bar from home if needed. I expected to find breakfast in the first village 10kms down the trail, but alas there wasn't a bar to be found, so I continued on until a couple of hours later when I saw a petrol station on the main autostrada and detoured to get supplies...toast, tea and a boccadillo for later (lunch). It was great and I felt an immediate uptick in my energy level. It's really about the food consumed. As mentioned, yesterday I stuffed myself mid-afternoon and ate a full meat a few hours later at the monastery...passable, but not great. I'm trying to eat really well...except for the KitKat bar I just finished.

As suggested, today was great...Roman miliarios which were the Roman route markers that measured off the Roman miles...there are a number left on the VdlP, so great to finally see them.
And not to be out done, there were the bridges...Roman bridges. Exquisitly constructed and very pleasing to the eye. Here are photos of the three that I crossed today.
No stream under this one...it's just sitting out there in the field.


And if all the Roman stuff wasn't more than enough today, there were the critters along the trail!

You're not imagining it, I thought I was, the animals all look at you like they are about to open a dialogue with you...don't believe me? They also walk over to the fence to greet you as well...very friendly critters here in Spain.
Here is Edwardo from Italy...not a word of English, but we have become good friends after I helped him on the side of the trail about 5 days ago. His feet are a mass of blisters, his legs are tight and cramped, so I've helped him to learn how to stretch them out as he walks and afterwards as well. A super individual. He walked the entire way today in his sandals. I saw him coming into town as I came out of my hostel late this afternoon and I walked him to the albergue as he was somewhat lost. 
I'm hoping to find him for dinner tonight as I've out distanced just about every,one else I've met along the way. Good news is I've decided to take a rest day in Caceres which is a World Heritage Site as I really like the feel of this place and everything will be open tomorrow. Annemarie, this is your type of town. Thanks by the way for emailing me a link to this hostel, simple, but clean and cheap. I booked a single but they put me in a double, so my pack has a place to rest as well:) Here two nights to let my body relax and to just hang out. Plaza Mayor is special. 

A few shots of the trail today...
How odd is this? Would never find this sort of narrow path on the Frances...too many folks.


My home for two nights:)
My feet are happy to have a home...for a while!
More on Caceres tomorrow. Time to flake out, but first some food...then maybe a movie and sleep. 

Buen Camino!

7 comments:

  1. I can't tell you how much I'm enjoying your posts about your trip. And I'm shocked at the distances you're covering--41 km is a long, long day. Longer than I've ever walked.

    I wonder why the nuns feel they must lock you in. What if there were a fire, for instance? Even if you can't get back in, you need to have the ability to get out.

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    1. Oh, I meant to say, the one time I didn't use the chinstrap on my Tilley hat on the Camino Francés, I was walking alongside a highway and the blast from a passing truck sucked off my hat and threw it into a deep ditch. I almost wasn't able to reach it. So, good look or not, I vote chinstrap.

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  2. Hi Geoff, Great pictures again today - what a beautiful camino this is proving to be. Glad you are having a rest today. 41 kms without much food, at least to begin must have been tough. The wind is an extra challenge. Our worst day on our walk last year was the penultimate day before reaching Finistere - gusts over 100kms according to the weather that night. It felt like it. When they hit you side on they blew you half way across the road and when they hit head on they literally stopped you in their tracks. Because it was raining too some pilgrims had those ponchos on and they really struggled!!

    Have a great day tomorrow. We look forward to your thoughts and pics. Feet looking pretty good - great news.

    Rest well

    Neil

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    1. Hi Neil,

      That must've been the day it rained so hard that Santiago flooded! Did you walk to Muxía, too?

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  3. PS. I seem to be able to publish comments again so glad to connect.

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  4. Hi Geoff, Just wanted to tell you that I am enjoying your pictures so much, I particularly liked the morning shot over the reservoir and the strange yellow flowers. Feet looking good Yeh!! G.

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  5. Hi Geoff. You are making solid progress getting that number of K's under the belt for the last few days. Don't over-cook the motor, which I imagine is easy to do in the heat, particularly if you become dehydrated. Can you pinpoint why your Italian friend is in such distress? - lack of training? - wrong shoes? I'd be interested to know. As everyone has remarked, amazing photos of your epic journey. Seems like it is flatter than the C~F but longer distances between towns and refreshments. Is the rain imminent? Perhaps you will soon be able to hum the words to the song "The Rain in Spain stays mainly on the Plain" on your next 40km leg?

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