Friday, October 2, 2015

Brugge to Brussels to Maastricht to Frankfurt: Sunny, 18 Sunday Sept 27, 2015

Time to Head For Home....but First, Another Party!

A last sunrise!
As the sun reflected off the water.
And then we were on our way by train to Brussels...
Where we witnessed a famous statue peeing, but dressed in clothes today for a celebration...how odd?!
A beautiful city centre to stroll through.

We met up with Annemarie's cousin Peter and his lovely family who we know well from their time living in Vancouver and our visits to Holland. What is that painter painting down there?
Yet another very clear Camino sign on the side of this very old, Camino related church...


This is the northern route which runs down from Amsterdam and picks up many branches as it moves south to Paris where is becomes the Vezelay route. A possible walk some day?

A little lunch...
A little chess...
And then the main event...
High end Belgium chocolate!! One needs a supportive banker to manage the prices of chocolate in this mall!


So much good stuff!
But soon we were on our way to a birthday party in El, Holland as the surprise guests! It was a wonderful evening seeing Ted and Ros and their clan. Always so welcoming to us. We were invited to the 45th wedding anniversary gathering as we cycled through 3 years ago. Always seems to be a party going on here!

Woke up this morning with a cold. Thought about next steps and decided that rather than share my cold in Holland, I'd bring it home and share it in Canada! What a nice guy! I checked on line and there was a flight tomorrow direct from Frankfurt to Vancouver...just 10 hours straight through, then onto the ferry and home! I'll be able to pick up medicinal substances in duty free!
Annemarie flies the same day from Paris and I'll beat her home by just two hours, pick up the car and drive back to get her at the ferry. Seemed destined, and it's time to return home, heal-up and regroup. We have plans to return next year, perhaps to bike guide on the barge and then for sure to walk in Portugal and Spain...will be working on a new language this winter! I'll be multi lingual with mechanical bits and pieces all suitable only for walking. Too funny!

It's been a very odd trip. Started off to walk southern France and central Spain and ended up walking only the Massif Central then cycling through northern France and into Belgium. Oddly the sun will be shining here now for the next couple of weeks after all that rain. However, we hear from home that good weather is expected there as well. Nice:-)
It's been a great, if unusual walk/bike this season. Thanks as always for the kind support provided by many. We are very fortunate to have the opportunity to experience this world in bits and pieces. It's an amazing place full of wonderful people and beautiful places.The opportunity to meet new people,  exchange ideas and experiences is unparalleled. Such a joy. Can't wait to start all over again next year...but first there are family and friends to reconnect with, leaves to rake, projects to complete and time to savour our experiences.

Bon...
I will return;-)

Agen, France: Hot and Humid, 27 (5) Saturday Sept 12, 2015

Unfulfilled in Condom? Drink Armagnac!

Well...that was our evening last night....Geoff sampling the Armagnac. It was brilliant! I had good reason to have a few last night. I had earlier Skyped with a Sports Medicine specialist in Victoria who generously offered his support before I departed. After a detailed discussion, the Doctor confirmed that my injury is in fact a stress fracture in my lower left leg. It happens. He told me that when people try to push through them the injury simply gets worse and the recovery then becomes more difficult. The X-rays I had in Condom wouldn't usually reveal this type of fracture and a more involved process with dye injections is required. However, he is sure that I have a fracture. So, that means that my walk is postponed...for this season anyway:-) 

I have walked enough to understand that injuries are part of the process. I've seen many people sidelined on their journey or hobbled as they continue onwards to know that this is just one of the risks and sometimes the unfortunate outcome.  I'm just fortunate to have walked as far as I have over the past few years without a serious injury happening on Camino. Am I disappointed? Sure. I made a considerable effort to make this trip happen, sometimes at the cost of other life opportunities. But I'm also a realist and I know that to continue on would be pretty dumb. The pain I experienced the last 5 days of walking gave me the message, I just wasn't listening closely enough, or rather I heard the message, but I didn't want to believe it. 

It's been an amazing walk these past 500 kilometres. I've met some very nice people, seen some extremely beautiful country, challenged myself, eaten far more than my share of French cuisine and found something of what I was looking for on this journey. I will return to walk again. It's become very central to me. What I've discovered and learned during these walks has been life altering and has opened my mind in many ways, too many to describe here or to bore you with.
Most certainly not lost during any of my recent drama is that this also brings to an end Annemarie's walk. I suggested that she walk on alone and that I meet her each day, but she has decided that it's not necessary for her to do so. She has accepted the outcome very calmly and indicated to me that she she is happy to stop as well. Something that I have not posted is that Annemarie experienced a very difficult time during the first 3 days of our walk together. Back spasms the first two days before she even put her pack on, followed by blisters not seen during any of her training. An extremely frustrating experience! The last few days were much more pleasant for her, so it's difficult for me to see her stop walking now. The poem at the bottom tells the tail. She is one tough lady! We will walk the Portuguese Way next September together, and perhaps with luck we will enjoy the pleasure of companionship with a few of our walking pals, so all is not lost!

However, this trip is not over! I have been given clearance to continue to travel while I heal, a 4-6 week healing period. So I'll be staying here for a few more weeks with Annemarie. We are off to have breakfast and figure out what that looks like! The world is certainly our oyster...we are most fortunate. So stay tuned if you like. I think there is a bit more to come!

Perseverance

As I bent over to tie my shoes that first morning
My back spasmed, excruciating pain without warning

Questions sped through my mind exploring options and alternatives
I made my way to a sitting then standing position, wondering "what gives?"

Is this Camino for me, am I meant to do this?
Is this an experience I should revisit, potentially miss?

Should I send my pack ahead, should  I stay another day to heal?
Really, just what's the deal?

I injested ibuprofen  and hefted my pack
And headed out tentatively toward the track

I thought of my friends who have much more difficult ailments to overcome
Carrying a rock up the first hill in honour of one

Throughout the day my back tensed and released
When our stop for the night came into view I was inordinately pleased

The pack helped address the pain
When I sat and rested it came back again

On the second morning my back spasmed as I taped my feet
This was definitely not the Camino I had expected to meet

I had planned a gentler kinder Camino this time around
I trained well, my preparation was sound

A steady pace and manageable stages were the order of the day
Secure in the knowledge only pleasant memories would come my way

Now I considered abandoning this walk
I was not at all prepared for this pain, it was a shock

Thinking again of my friends who have harder roads to travel
I remained steadfast not allowing my plans to unravel

The weight of the pack is an aid for the back
The walk became a sort of physical therapy as I continued along the track

Our place of respite on the second night was a vast improvement over the first
I began to think this Camino wasn't after all cursed

On the third day there was no spasm to greet my start
But by this time the pain from my blisters was doing its part

This day's walk was longer than we initially thought
New water filled bubbles on my toes it brought

Our resting place was a delight, I hobbled through town to explore
Knowing the next day a flat and shorter walk was in store

With stinging feet I began the fourth day
We walked along canals for most of the way

As we arrived at our destination, there were no new ailments to report
Just a series of beautiful images on my camera to sort

The next day and the next became easier still
No longer requiring that I set out through sheer strength of will

Instead I anticipated each day and the new experiences it would bring
Finally greeting my kinder and gentler Camino; perseverance is a good thing


Addendum:
Things have progressed very quickly the past 5 hours as they sometimes do. Over breakfast this morning in a small bar Annemarie suggested that we catch the 13:00 bus to Agen where there are better transportation options. I needed to remove myself physically from the Chemin in order to make the necessary break, so I quickly agreed. While we waited to depart we continued the discussion concerning where to from here? While working out a few things Annemarie did a quick Google and up popped barge and biking. My sister Kathy and her husband Bob did this for two plus weeks this past summer and they loved it. We thought, if they liked it so much perhaps this was our answer and our inspiration. After all, I'm able to ride a bike with this injury as there isn't any direct impact to my leg, unless of course I fall off! We confirmed the riding part on the Internet. So we phoned Holland and they have a two week trip available from Paris to Brugge, Belgium departing tomorrow. They had one cabin left with bunk beds and our own bathroom, and had been trying to fill the last space. We negotiated a very good price and reached an understanding as to how the process would proceed. I'll still be able to sleep in a bunk and feel like I'm in an aubergue!! 

There will be exercise so that we can continue to eat and drink all we like, and there will continue to be communal dinners. The exercise component was important to both of us as we worked so hard to prepare for the Camino, and I can sit if I hurt, and stay active if everything proceeds as hoped. The boat is full of Aussies of all things, and a few Yanks. Fortunately we spent part of last winter in Oz visiting our friends so we have some of the lingo wired and will know how to communicate. Our daughter is marrying an American fellow so we pretty much have that covered as well. How good is that?! Funny how things have worked out so smoothly. We have purchased our train tickets at a discount and will be on our way north tomorrow morning at 7:10. Our boat sails from Paris at 17:00 close by the Gard du Nord. We have no idea of the route the boat will take, but we have purchased riding shorts and gloves in Agen and they provide the bikes, helmets and water bottles and most of the food and drink. They also have ice packs on board so that I can ice my injury. So if everything works out we will be on our way again. If it doesn't, then Plan B, whatever that is. Once the trip is over Annemarie will have two days to return to Paris to jet home and I'll look for a flight out of Brussels or Amsterdam. There really isn't any hurry to get home at this point. Not sure if we will have Internet, so will post if, and when possible.

Bon Le Canal!

Condom: Cloud, Rain, Sun, 23 Friday Sept 11, 2015

Condom - A Safe Place Indeed ;-)

Sitting in Condom, trying to keep straight faces as we receive some amusing comments from friends! 

We are hanging out killing time waiting to heal up. A very slow morning writing and skyping with folks as an unexpected rain drizzled down for a few hours. Then a late breakfast in a town bar where we planned the update of our home bedroom and the study over a pane de chocolate et tea.
Like I said, a slow day. The town itself is very nice and we have walked the old city district several times  to find distractions. A nice dinner at a small sidewalk pizza place last evening.
Where I had a very nice oven fired thin crust pizza and Annemarie enjoyed a veal dish.
Dessert was a shared chocolate mousse...to die for! Almost as good as this young lady makes, and you know what I mean if you have visited our home on the right occasion.
Like I said, it's a nice little place and is quite beautiful lit up at night.
Pretty good in the daylight too.


Today we had lunch up on this little terrace just on the right of the photo. Enough room for just 5 tables outside. Very romantic I'm told by a good source!
Great view...
A good lunch...
Even a good dessert..
I did say it was a slow day...ok, a very slow day! I'm struggling here and clearly need a good walk to kick things into gear again. We are eating well and I'm hoping to soon have the opportunity to burn it all off.

On the health front, things appear to be on the mend. I have a Skype confab with a specialist from home who generously offered to help me if I experienced any problems on my journey. Not a house call, but a most generous and appreciated effort. I'm always amazed at the generosity I find while on these walks. Very humbling. I have a supply of anti inflammatory drugs that I'm happily popping and I also just picked up a supply of rather heavy duty prescribed pain killers should I require them...just €6!! Wow! Annemarie says that if I get to take these it's only fair if I share. Odd logic, but they gave me 44 of them. I'll avoid them actually unless no choice. After all, I would prefer to remember the walk, not my naps in some ditch! Will see what tonight's discussions reveal.
I'm not sure what I'll show you tomorrow? Any ideas? Well yes, Annemarie was so bored today that she wrote us some poems. The first I apparently inspired, so I'll include it. I always feel pretty good when I inspire a poem! Perhaps tomorrow one or two others to fill the space:-)

"Perspective"
We walk out of the small village early in the morning
Descending then climbing the pattern of our day forming

He says "take a moment, look back at where we've come"
The village sits majestic shining in the sun

Look forward, don't look back we're often told
But today's view negates that position if I may be so bold

In looking back, we may see what we didn't when previously in that place
Enhancing the cache of memories of that time and space

We capture the image by camera and in our hearts
Then turn to move forward again to truly depart



Bon Chemin....I hope!

Condom: Sunny, 27 Thursday Sept 10, 2015

Stuck in Condom...

Do you know how hard it was to write such a neutral title with such good material? But my Mother reads the blog, so I must behave. A lost opportunity!
Up this morning as usual to a less than brilliant breakfast, but as always, we were happy to receive
something to get us started. How do the French walk on a piece of bread and a cup of tea or coffee? Late last night we sort of made the decision to stay here and to try and see a doctor because I suspected that I might have a hairline fracture on my lower left leg. Annemarie googled the subject, and sure enough, my situation matched the description. So we started our day at the hospital. I received great service and was able to communicate pretty well in my limited French and they in their even more limited English! The doctors told me that they too thought that I had broken the shin bone...did I tell you about all the road walking? However, several X-rays later and they pronounced no break, but a badly inflamed something or rather in the leg. So now a round of anti inflammatories and some rest.

We have moved from the convent...

To here...
Yes, we are pilgrims, but no one said you can't have a pool! Therapy of course! All the TV channels are in French...I checked. The convent was fine and the people running it were very nice to us. But here we have a room with our own shower much closer to the centre of town and if we are going to hang out for three days then this will be a bit more tolerable and easier to get around. Also we can have wine here:-) It was a dry dinner last night.

We said goodbye to our new French pals today as they completed their walk and will return home today. They will walk to St. John Pied de Port next year and I have promised to send them information about the Frances for their next effort. Very nice folks and very inclusive of us English types.
We have had a look around this nice town and here are a few of our discoveries. The main gothic church. It was very beautiful inside and I posted a photo of the outside yesterday, but here is a side door facade.
Now for the main event...


You might recall that almost all the churches so far have been much older, heavier Romanesque structures. You can see the difference. Much lighter and more open.
And yes, the spectrum images were here too. Glad you asked;-)

Many friends have passed by today...some who I won't have the opportunity to exchange email addresses with. Such is life.
But no doubt we will make new friends. Many more people seem to come and go on this route than the others I have walked. These four look familiar?
I will post a photo essay of this town tomorrow. Otherwise I'll likely run out of material! Thanks for your nice comment Wendy. Don't worry, I haven't given up yet. You were quite correct, this is a very beautiful part of the route. Now that I've seen the Pyrenees, I'm pretty motivated and you can imagine how difficult it was not to proceed onwards today. However, the correct decision. 

500 kilometres lay behind me and the road ahead continues to beckon me onwards. I'm very sorry to be missing a part of this perfect weather window. Hopefully it will wait for us. I've heard from Germany that it's chilled off up there. I want to be over the Pyrenees before that happens here. 10 more stages to St John and then three days to hop over the mountains and into Pamplona. How fast the journey passes.

Bon Chemin!