Saturday, August 29, 2015

Notice: problems posting...read on please!

A Solution!!

We have found that my other blog, High Endeavors will work with photos!! So if you have this sight from our Australia, NZ trip then go to it from now on. If not its at;

Link To "High Endeavours" Blog

http://highendeavors.blogspot.ca

Very pleased about this. I will try to repost today with some photos and see if this works!!

Geoff

Stage 12: Brengues - Cabrerets, 30kms, Very Hot, 35 (3)

It Wasn't Supposed To Be Like This!

First of all my friends, I feel as badly as you that I can't post any photos. I think that things will change in a day or two and then I'll go back and put the photos into the various stages. At minimum I will have access to Annemarie's iPad, so thanks for waiting. I have heard from a number of you about this technical problem. I have some nice photos to share and would very much like to do so too! 

Today was blistering hot...a scotcher indeed! My trusty little thermometer charted 35 and I felt every bit of it! Lots of climbing today and some amazing views of the limestone cliffs and the troglodyte buildings. These are ancient abodes where there is a facade across the mouth of a cave with the living area in the cave and for all intents it looks like a house. They are often still occupied.

Last night at the Gite, it felt more like I was staying in someone's personal home. In fact I was, but his friends were staying here as well and they invited other people to dinner. So we all sat outside on the deck overlooking the valley and the cliff walls. The food and drink were excellent and we had a great time as the moon found its way up over the valley. Claude's friends are noted cave divers and were in the area for that reason. So I had lots to ask about the karst in the area and learned a little along the way. Mostly French spoken at the table, but forms time to time I was able to follow along. 

Today Jacques and I had a Gite booked, but when I arrived I didn't get a very good feel for the owner. He told me that I would have to sit out in the heat for almost 2 hours until the Gite officially opened. He didn't offer me a drink, and when I asked him for water he asked me if I had something to put it in. 35 degrees and no offer of water! I've learned in my travels that when things don't feel right, simply leave and go find anther bed. So that's exactly what I did. I walked down the road 4kms further along the river to the town of Cabrerets and called a couple of places, but all were full. I finally connected with a nice lady who said she was looking out her door, but couldn't see me! The town is pretty small. I walked to her hotel, but they were full too, but they managed to arrange a small private room in a Gite. So I have a bed and a roof tonight, complete with a view over the river! Very simple place, but the shower has water and I stood under the very cold water for a full 15 minutes cooling off. Splendid!!!

Just spoke with Annemarie as she is now in Paris and will transit this way tomorrow arriving at 19:00. I have two short days planned as my feet need some time to heal and I'm hoping the rest day in Cahors will fix them up. I've never had this problem on Camino, so new territory for me. At least Annemarie has the new shoe inserts with her, so hopefully I'll get things in line again soon. Always new experiences when we walk, but I could have done without this one.

Happy 35th wedding anniversary Annemarie. I really wish we could have spent it together, but we will celebrate in Cahors on Monday. Looking forward to that!


Friday, August 28, 2015

Stage 11: Figeac - Brengues, 30kms, very hot, 34 (3)

Technical Issues!!!

So followers of this blog, I have a few problems today. The blog is not accepting photos and I get an error message 403, whatever that means? I'm looking into this. But as you can imagine, a bit frustrating. Sorry about that. However, I have learned that I can post text, so that will have to do until I find a fix for the problem. However, Annemarie arrives in three days and I can probably exchange iPads with her to post to Pamplona, so not all is lost!

Another example today about how the Camino seems to provide. The walk today was beautiful and I'll come to that in a moment. I typically never get blisters. I carry the first aid to deal with them, but usually walk without getting them. However, I now have two and have discovered why. The foam pad on my shoe inserts has separated from the plastic in the heel area, leaving my foot in direct contact with the hard plastic. I have a blister on each heel at the back bottom where I have tough callus build up from al, the training and walking here. Darn. I have sent desperate pleading emails to Annemarie who is Vancouver and will fly out today in the hope that she will be able to get me another pair on her way to the airport. Fingers crossed! In the mean time, I am in a small village tonight and my host told me he will drive me back to Figeac to see if we can find something temporary. How nice is that?! So will see what we see. My good pal David in Melbourne taught me a good lesson when we were down there. He suggested that if a blister forms to take out the shoe liner and walk without it as it heals in order to change the strike area. So image that to fall back on tomorrow if all else fails. But that won't help my Achilles issue much, but it's just for three stages, about 80 kms. Nice to have friends with knowledge!

Left early today well before 7 to beat the heat, and arrived before 13:00, so made excellent time. I wish I could show you the sterling sunrise and the beautiful light as I walked along on top of a hogs back ridge early in the day. But I can't. 

Before I left home I did research the Cele Valley variant, and decided to walk it because it goes through amazing country side and because only a few go this way. Yes, Carol's Mom in Naramata, Penticton, I do like to walk alone with just the sounds of nature around me. Very special. This limestone gorge runs for some 110kms and follows the Cele River. It's a challenging route as I'll have to climb up the steep walls and along very narrow trails, Cliff side. I wish I could show you the photos. You'd be so proud of me that I was able to walk these narrow, exposed paths!! Very hot up there. The history behind these high paths is apparently the result of pilgrims trying to avoid thieves in the valley. They found their way along feeling safer up high. Eventually protective garrisons were placed on the path in the Middle Ages to assist the pilgrims. I walked through one today and there is a church from the 12th C up there too! Very cool! 

I'm staying in a very nice gite tonight, and the owner flys for Air France. He is about to retire, and some of his friends are here tonight, so it should be very lively at dinner! A late meal at 20:00. 

No sign of Jacque yet. Hope his injury is behaving ok. He is now 2.5 hours behind me. 

Any way, must go and see what I can find in Figeac to help my foot problem. It will be tape and stuff tomorrow to protect. Fortunately, a rest day three stages from now to let them heal a bit. Looking forward to that!!

Update:
I now have been to Figeac with our host Claude and we have visited a cobbler where we found some shoe inserts that should help me for the next few days. The wife of the cobbler had a little English from a year she spent in England many years ago working as an Opare. She convinced her husband to drop everything for me and repair my boot problem while she helped me to find inserts. They wouldn't accept any money for the shoe repairs. Another nice tale from the road:-) Annemarie has replied to my messages and emails and will pick up new inserts on her way to the airport. How nice is that?!

I will only walk 24 tomorrow with the blisters needing some time to heal, then two days into Cahors...can't wait! A rest day!

Jacques did arrive. Just in case you were wondering. 

Bon Chemin!!

Wednesday, August 26, 2015

Stage 9: Conques - Livinhac le Haut, 25kms, Sun & Hot! 29 (2)!

Up, then down, then up, then down again! Then Repeat!

Last night I stayed in the Abbye, and I must say it was a lot of fun.

We had a communal dinner as is the custom in these places and something I always look forward to. Simple food, but lots of it, good company and as much wine as one might wish for:-) In this Abbye, they start off proceedings with a welcome from a priest, but I understood very little, however enjoyed the wine Immensely! Then we were encouraged to sing a Camino song, "Ultrea!"
One of the servers had a great stash!
After dinner I went over to the church to hear the organ played, sort of a sound and light show. It was pretty good as I struggled to stay awake, but I vaguely remember hearing some Procal Harem and other tunes from the 1970 played. Actually, it was quite good to hear the organ get cranked up.

Then off to bed quite late (for a Camino anyway) and this morning after a good sleep it was up for a quick breakfast. The view from our bathroom!
And then there was nothing I could do to put off the inevitable...well, I did doddle on my way out of town:-) 

But pretty soon I knew that I would have to face the climb. So off over the Roman bridge, and one last look back at Conques, a very pretty town in the early morning before all the tourists are up!
And up I went! Your sunrise on my way up.
A short stop at a tiny church...they should serve refreshments. Would make a killing! 
Cindy, your morning stone, my friend. Be strong!!
It was a good brisk climb, but no more strenuous than a trip to the gym first thing. Cleared the cobwebs and got the blood flowing for another day!

At the top I was sort of singing the Rocky theme song as this none traditional Camino shadow shot might show.
Then off over hill and down dale. It was pretty much the theme of the day. As has become our norm, I caught up to Janis and Jana from Slovenia along the way. A very nice couple who no doubt Annemarie and I will get to know well...if we can catch them. They are pretty funny, and because they live in the Julian Alps at Bled, they can hoof it up the climbs without breaking a sweat! 
Neil, you asked if there are lots of hills. Simple answer is yes. Hard on knees and ankles as some of the descents are steep. I can't imagine walking this route without sticks, but some do. Each to their own. I was icing an Achilles injury that I had before I left home, and it flared a bit yesterday when a tourist stepped out in front of me. I managed it through the evening and it was good to go today. I can provide you more info if you like with an email.
This was getting quite close to the high spot for the day.

There was another very steep descent into Decazeville, where I had intended to stop, but I was told it's pretty industrial and I'm glad I walked on.
Decazeville.
Then a good long climb out in the heat...from rain to a heat wave! So hot the road melted around 12:00! My boot print...
Then happily down through the cool shade of the trees. And the view of Livinhac.
I turned left before the bridge and walked 600 metres down to our camping spot tonight where we apparently have some sort of abode. Jacques is a couple hours behind me, so when he gets here we will sort out a walk into town and get some dinner and a cold beer! tomorrow we walk 28 kms to Figeac where we will prepare to walk the deviation route into the Cele Gorges for three stages, and then into Cahor where Jacques will depart home and Annemariewill arrive! 

Body holding up ok, the pack feels right at home now and I'm trail hardened. It's been like that for sometime now and I really enjoy things once the jet lag goes and I find my rhythm! This is at the summit today!
My daughters tease me about snoring in the comments section yesterday;-) For sure, everyone snores, but some people sadly snore to excess, and when the whole dorm is woken up all night then it must be pretty bad! Just saying!!

Hey, on a river here and there's a pool! But no swim gear:-(

Time to get a shower! Bon Chemin!

Tuesday, August 25, 2015

Stage 8: Golinhac - Conques, 25kms, Cloud & Sun, 22, (2)

Walking in the Clouds...Bon!!

Over nighting at elevation can have its benefits, and this morning was one of those days. I awoke to find one of my favourite sights. Clouds right to the ground! Next to walking in the sun, this ranks right up there. A quick breakfast of carbs...bread, bread, bread that's all they seem to eat here at breakfast with tea or coffee. They could do a bit better for us walkers! 

And off into the clouds. I didn't see the village at all last night. I arrived around 16:00 and after doing laundry, having a shower and joining others for dinner there just wasn't much daylight left. Jacques had managed to find his way in on the limp, but he's doing pretty well with it.
A great walk across the fields and along country roads. Cindy, this was the spot today.

Erie and beautiful. Eventually the trail began a steep descent. Something about a rabbit hole in "Alice in Wonderland"?

Really like this image. I have several and will take my time with these when I return home. A bit of an optical illusion.
Eventually I was low enough to begin to get below the clouds and I could see a little of what was out there to see.
Found my way to Espeyrac and by then I was in the sun and happy to really have a good look around after the past few days of rain and nasty weather.
A 1,000' climb took me back up through some pretty country. Looking back at Esperyrac early in the climb.
Celia has a very nice castle and the town was picturesque too.

Climbing still higher, I bumped into Barbara and Pia from Germany who I'd had dinner with about 4 days ago. Time does fly past out here, but only looking backwards. The days are long and slowed from normal life...at least when walking.

First vines of the trip!!! No pelegrino shrinkage from this guy...not yet anyway!
Almost there, then a brutal descent into Conques. Actually it was great fun! A real thigh buster and knee buster too if you aren't careful! It was all the way down into the valley.
And suddenly I was in Conques. It just kind of sneaks up on you. A rather touristic little village, but home in the Abbaye Sainte Foy for the night. Many of the French will complete their walk here and depart for home. Will be interesting to see how many are around tomorrow night.
While waiting for 14:00 to sign in at the Abbye, I went looking for food. The restaurants were all expensive so I found a very nice quiche in a shop and put in my bag to eat with a yet to be found beer. During that process I located a cheaper restaurant and had a very nice omelette and salad with a view of the church. Oh yes, and my beer! I finished lunch but was still hungry so in a very busy restaurant I figured, what the hell, and put my quiche on the plate too. Not enough protein the last few days. Too much bread at breakfast and no yogurt. So, I decided to load up a bit! After all, I descended a 1,000' at the end of today. How do you suppose tomorrow is going to start;-)?

Jacques and I are sharing a room at the Abbye tonight. I was trying to get out of a bunk bed after so many nights of snorers. They had a twin available but for more than I wanted to spend. I was saying that maybe my friend would be interested in changing from a single to a double, but I couldn't do it as Jacques hadn't arrived yet. At that exact moment he walked through the door and I called him to the front of the line. Too funny! He liked the idea as it was cheaper and he was able to jump the long sign in line-up too! So we have this nice little cell, with 4 windows with views. Much more important, that's 4 windows to hang our laundry out of!! A good place to get the dampness out of our gear as well. We've escaped the mess in our room and are sitting in a posh bar terrace writing and having a cold refreshment while icing various ailments. The high life...a room away from snoring with our own shower and toilet!  The camino provides yet again.

Hope there is still something left of me tomorrow. Now to figure out how far to walk in the morning and see if I can book a cheap bed.

Bon Chemin!

Monday, August 24, 2015

Stage 7: Saint Come - Golinhac, 34kms, rain, cloud, Sun at the end! 19

While the Global Markets Tremour...

...Geoff walks on pretty much oblivious. Probably a good thing don't you think Dad? 

After yesterday's slog through the elements and the mud you would think that sleep would have been no problem. It wouldn't have been except for the pleasures of dorm living...snoring. So bad that ear plugs didn't help so I listened to music all night and drifted in and out. Hey, it's Camino and this happens. But hopefully not two nights in a row! I left my nice little gite early and found that the sun that was supposed to greet me wasn't there! But there was cloud and drizzle. On goes Margarita and so much for my tan!
Leaving town...it was really nice here.
The air was dark and dank and it just kind of brings you down a bit. I considered playing some music, but I'd had enough last night and usually I walk without tunes. So I just stretched my legs and tried to find some rhythm. My first stop was Eglise de Perse, but it was closed and the view just brought me a bit lower in the rain. No kidding, eh? All alone with ghosts! 
 
Next stop was Espalion. Now this looked a bit more promising! 

Really nice, but then it started to rain. Another downer. Then trudge onwards to yet another church, Chapelle St Pierre. Mmmmm, nothing to write home about. It was just a dull inside, but it has history on its side for sure. Walk away even more down.
Then a nasty little climb in mud and rain...hey, this ain't helping to pump me up you know!!
I don't mean to complain, but hey, this is southern France in August! Just look at it!!! I started in the far distance in the near dark and it's still dark some 16 kms later! 
Ok, I'll admit this is nice...
And so is this farm...
But don't let it go to your head because just around the corner is this crappy red mud that sticks to your boots like gum an inch thick on the bottom!
Nice sheep though. A little muddy themselves, but just look at the weather.
This goes on until I reach the next great church today...Eglise de Tresou,
but it's not open either!!! Free and clean bathroom however, so not a total loss. I trudge on in the rain thinking less than nice Camino type thoughts. Then I see this nice little cottage...cheers me up for about a minute. I mean, it's pretty cute.
I trudge on along the side of a road and almost get hit by two touring cyclists. When will. they learn to ring a bell or to say something to warn you? Hate cyclists when I walk. I'm getting less cheery buy the kilometre. Then I arrive in Estaing some 20kms from my start. I'm in a dark place. But wait, this looks kind of cool with possibilities:-)
Neil and Sarah a cool Roman bridge. Things are looking up!
Hey the rain has stopped! Poncho off...finally. I cruse over the bridge and into town and see that there is a castle and another church. Some tourists too. I ask directions to a grocery, but that doesn't go too well. But wait. I find a nice little place for lunch. I desire I need a mental boost after a long, long night and a long trudge in the rain. So...
And then with a full tummy and a cola buzz I figure I'll give the church thing one last try today.
It looks interesting so I enter with high hopes. Nope, another bland interior...don't even snap a photo. It's been that kind of a day. I head out of town and see a friend at the end of the bridge having a cup of tea. We chat, I walk on down the road and almost get run over by a speeding car. Great. I look at my profile chart. How far can it be to the end of this stage. 9 kilometres. Ok, I can do this, but what's with the 1,100' climb? Where did that come from? So I climb. What else can I do? It's a real grind too. But then near to the top a day saver happens...the sun comes out...just like that!!
Instantly it's a very good day! The sun is out! Where have you been the past two days? My walking clothes haven't been washed in two days, they smell, so I smell, my bag smells! But all is forgiven, you are back. There's even sun on the bathroom (they could use a few of these on the Frances).

Things are looking up. I'm into my camping and gite place, I've had a shower, washed my clothes and had a drink. Dinner is in 15 minutes. But will my laundry dry in time? Best I post this and go check it out.

I suppose the stock markets will sort themselves out at some point. For the moment I plan to ignore them and just walk on. I've learned that even when things look bad the sun still eventually comes out again and everything is as it should be. I still loved the day...it just took a while to get there:-)

Bon Chemin!