Stage 3: Saugues - St. Alban sur Limagnole, 32kms, 6 hrs, no lunch:-( Sunny! 30

A Long and Winding Uphill Road

So what's with my Michelin profiles? I mean, they are truly great and all I'm using. The route is so well marked that you don't need a map...just follow the red and white slashes and the posted markers! But today I guess I took things for granted after the climbs yesterday. The profile looked pretty flat, but the reality is that the first 20kms was a long uphill drag. Energy draining. Leaving walkers scattered on the side of the trail helterskelter! I hate that, but as my friend Didier says with a casual shrug, "Il est Camino". Basically meaning "whatever". Those who have walked will understand, you get what you get on Camino and you simply get on with it. So I did. 

As I started out this morning at 7:30 it was only 6* so pretty cold for an August morning I was thinking. I've actually had to start with my red wind breaker on for a short while. However, before too long my handy thermometer (love it!) was at 20 and then at 30! Where did that come from? It was a beautiful morning to walk, and my very favorited time is early on the trail. I have it all to myself and I thrive on the golden colours from the sunrise and the peace with just the sounds of birds and cow bells.

From where I sit, life seldom gets much better than this...and this is only day 3!

The fields are in the process of being hayed and giant round hay bails are beginning to show up. 

There are lots of differences between walking in Spain and France and perhaps that will be a topic for another time, but what's really the same is that the cows here look at you conversationally like they do in Spain. 

And they are huge!

A good bit of forest walking today as I found my way higher and away from the agricultural areas. Close to the summit of Montagne Margeride there was a bit of a high level plateau that was pretty scenic and there was an isolated dwelling that I admired for some time before walking on.

A little more climbing and there was a fountain where I lingered and cooled off for a time...30 by now. Nothing finer than pouring a hat full of water over your head:-)

Close by I came upon St. Roch where I picked up my sello for the day. Much nicer than an accommodation stamp. The church was pretty nice and there was a refuge for pilgrims on the property dating back to 1875 which is still in use. A place to take a moment.

I soon crossed into the district of Lozere from Haute Loire...I suppose a big moment? They have signs everywhere announcing it. I liked the older road marker best.

From there it was pretty much down hill and my profile chart indicated small villages on the way where I'd hoped to get lunch and a cold drink, but I was sadly disappointed. By now I was catching up to others who had joined the route from various accommodations and villages along the way. It was nice to chat a while as I caught up to people. I'm getting more confident with my French every day, and I'm certainly not shy to try. I've found the French very understanding and even encouraging of my efforts. A nice surprise. I show them my home made cheat sheet and I get some pretty nice comments often followed by a lesson in how to pronounce things. How great is that!? A smile carries one miles out here. I have met and enjoyed the company of many people since arriving. A real pleasure! And yet I'm able to walk alone for long periods when I choose to. 

I met a nice family of 6 having their lunch on the side of the trail, their donkey hobbled and it's load removed. I've seen this more than once the last few days. I might be talked into one of those critters! 

So it's now 16:42 and I'm getting hungry. Time for a look around town and a beer. My reservation was mucked up and I have a room to myself tonight instead of a dorm...darn;-) Wonder what's for dinner...over two hours from now...sigh.

Bonne journe!  (the French say this to me too)

Progress. A short stage tomorrow, 16 kms to stop and see Aumont Aubrac, but I'll be paying for that the two next long days. Should be fun!! And I think my profile shows that tomorrow is fairly flat?