Zamora: A Tourist Day:) 21C, Sunny and a Nice Walking Day

Twenty Four Churches, you say. Do I have to see them all?

Simple answer...not on your life!!

I have a sunrise photo from my room this morning, but you'll have to take it from me that the sunset image is much better.

If you can enlarge the picture you will see the birds feeding in the dying light while behind them the clouds seem to be on fire. Truly a tremendous show as I sat in my window above the world quietly observing. If you look to the right you will see a curved dome...this is the bump on top...

A mother watching the kids go to sleep.

Last night was a learning experience as our young German friend explained traveling European musicians to us. These fellows in their robes apparently travel far and wide playing music to entertain and raise funds. Their other objective, if you can call it that, is to meet and have a brief romance with a woman from the place they are visiting. The fellow in the following two photos is fairly accomplished having the ribbons on his back to demonstrate his romances and the patches on the front of his robe to show his journey...a Camino of a different nature perhaps? The music is excellent, and honestly, how about that beard:)

If you enlarge the photo you can see where he has travelled with his music and his charm.

Today I forced myself to go into the dinning room to have a lovely breakfast...far and away from my usual rushed piece of fruit and a chunk of bread often eaten as I walk out of a small village in the early morning hours. I was dressed very simply, and stood out amoung the well healed guests, but hey I'm a walking pilgrim, and as my fellow peregrinos brilliantly put it last night, they are Mercedes Peregrinos! My friends sure liked my 'albergue' last night when they picked me up for dinner. So here's what breakfast looked like, complete with marmalade!

After a satisfying breakfast and thank you email to those who arranged this stay as my retirement gift it was off to wander the city. Walking particularly slowly in the early morning I felt a part of the place and really enjoyed the vibs from this ancient pilgrimage city. Here is the gate where the early pilgrims would leave the city, and I too will do the same tomorrow as I depart. Something special in being a small part of the continuing unfolding history and process...it's very humbling. 

And yes, I saw a few churches. Simple and beautiful. The cathedral is certainly the grandest and I obtained another sello in my credential in preparation to depart. Easily forgotten that this is the old Roman road and then you find something from that era to remind you...there were Roman columns to the side of the cathedral.

In honour of my eldest who is all knowledgable about everything art history related, in the cathedral there are some of the finest tapestries in Spain from the 16th C kept in a special room that being early I was able to enjoy all by myself. These are for you Erin.

I've seen many tapestries during my wanderings, and I agree, these are probably the best I've ever come across. The detail, presentation and preservation is exceptional.

So a funny story. After I left the cathedral I wandered the city walls intending to eventually arrive and have a look at the castle. However, when I arrived at the gate and went inside I found the ticket fellow dead asleep...he was snoring, so I know it was the latter, and not the former. Given what I'm in the process of enjoying I couldn't bring myself to wake him or even take advantge of the situation. So I left him to his slumbers and continued on. But I was entertained!

A typical church, and that's as close as I'll take you today...one can see too much of churches.

Still trying to figure these guys out? Their music must be poor indeed to cover their heads.

And lastly, I found Fredreco's uncle in Zamora...I'm getting quite a collection of these...

But this one supports this town nicely...

I'm off again tomorrow. I heard last night from Didier that Jessica (Germany), Benito (Spain) and likely Oli (Germany) will arrive today. Nice to hear, as while I enjoy the solitude of walking, I really enjoy celebrating the day with others over a good meal and vino that evening.

Buen Camino!

Addendum: this morning at breakfast I noticed that many of the well healed seemed to know each other and I guessed that perhaps a wedding was in process today...seems I was right. I guess that explains all the expensive cars and expensive people. Probably this isn't the time to go down to the bar to claim my free drink? Wonder if I could crash the event...bet the wine is extremely good! They put in new carpets and massive flower displays this morning...and I thought was for me;)

Stage 19: El Cubo to Zamora, 35 kms, 6.5 hours, 21 C cloud and sun

It Juat Keeps Getting Better!

As mentioned I stayed in a nice little albergue last night where I was well looked after. The operator and her husband were a delight and she was an amazing cook bringing us course after course followed by dessert and liqueurs. 

The town was pretty basic with a small church, a half stocked little store, a pharmacy and the usual small bar...where we sat for a time and watched the bull fights on TV...pretty silly stuff, but the play by play guys could have come off HNIC...all in suits and very serious. The only thing in town that I couldn't quite understand was the village tree...

You aren't imagining things...the tree is tied to another tree pole??? Sure there is an explanation, but the question would have been well beyond my Spanish skills and certainly wouldn't have been in my phrase book! Another mystery.

So today. Magical. The scenery was outstanding, the temperature ideal...only missing was a sunrise, I think for the first time on the trip. I fudged one when the sun finally showed up, and here it is...

The image I took in its place was pretty good too, but not a sunrise.

I walked through several pueblos today, all very quiet, so I simply moved on. I had lots of food with me and just stopped from time to time along the trail. There was a strong head wind most of the day. I started out across rolling farm land at about 880m before crossing an escarpment where the Camino dropped about 250m all the way into Zamora. The views were exceptional and then the cloud began to part allowing the sun to slowly filter through. This is wild lavender, previously last seen much further south at similar elevations.

The trail today was made up of just about everything. Parts were gravel, other areas sand, as above (difficult to walk in), and heavy clay which I could see would be ugly in rain. 

There are not many folks on the trail, but I caught up with my pal Didier from Bayonne, France. He is pretty special...walks with just a list of the albergues, no map or any support information. He arrives every day and only occasionally gets lost...we all do, unless you are German and have one of 'those' guides...more on that in a moment. Didier does have fluent Spanish and almost no English, so we spend our spare time working on my French and his English. Somehow we manage to get our messages across and I've never seen Didier without a smile on his face...just one of those fortunate souls. He will move on tomorrow and I'll miss his presence.

The flowers today were amazing...one of the best days in the past 10. 

 I just missed a flock of sheep on the road, but after reflection I decided that my history with sheep this Camino hasn't been the best so I felt a bit better about the miss...and they were huge!...the photo doesn't really show their size well, but the shepard should have been playing basketball...what a waste.

I recently mentioned getting lost on the route. Usually the markers are pretty good, but there are times that if one is not watching closely...possibly distracted by the flowers...it is possible to find oneself where one isn't supposed to be. By chance it happened to me today. I was enjoying the views, taking some photos, eating a banana and wondering along when I began to realize that I haven't seen one of these or a yellow arrow for a very long while. 

Knowing the general direction I should be moving in I crossed and followed a side country road in an effort to re-acquire the Camino. However, I suppose I didn't walk far enough as I never did find the trail again. Wandering country roads in the general direction is fine, but I've learned from experience that creeks sometimes show up requiring the removal of boots. I knew there were indeed creeks in the area, so finally decided to walk to the nearest town and ask where I was...my map book is that bad...I hate it, but have become used to it, and it will make a nice souvenir, so I keep it. I eventually find my way to a town and discover to my surprise that I'm in Entrala which is actually on my map (this is pretty rare, so I was excited). 8-10 kms from Zamora. 

Too far back to retrace my steps, so off I go along the narrow highway edge. I stop when the big trucks come along, and there are many but eventually I make it to the N-630 and autostrada, both much too busy to walk on. Fortunately I saw a sign for the cycling route into town and gratefully I follow it. Definitely not the typical route into Zamora for peregrinos. There is some signage which makes me somewhat comfortable...but I like the tags, so press on.

Eventually signs of civilization show up (pun intended)...

Civilization!  And I eventually pick up the Camino and cross the river into town over a a beautiful bridge.

I'm here and in my Parador...a special retirement gift from my family.

View from my room...

That's it for today. I'll spend a day here wandering the churches...apparently there are 24 of them. Guess I'll pick and choose a bit;)

Buen Camino.

Stage 18 (finally):Salamanca - El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino 36 kms, 6.5 hrs, 19 C, low cloud

It always seems impossible until it's done.  

                                                - Nelson Mandela

My daughter Caitlin has been sending me inspirational quotes as I continue on my journey. I really liked this one as it suits so many of my walking days, and I leaned on this one a bit today.  Thanks Cait.

Well, I did it. The first few kilometres were a bit shaky, but eventually I found my legs and by the time I'd walked 15 kms my training seemed to kick in and I walked comfortably for the remainder of the day. My legs are. Bit tired, but they will be fine tomorrow. It was an interesting walk out of Salamanca, but first the sunrise...

As I headed out of town it was past the bull fighting arena and next to the ring I found the Red Cross and in front of it...this!

Even further down the road I found a major surprise in a metal recycling business...

A few more round abouts and a number of highway kilometres and finally I was off road and on my way. 

It came as a bit of a surprise to see at least 7 other peregrinos early on. Then I remembered that Salamanca is often a departure and arrival city for the Plata. The last town transited today came at the 16 km point and only 2 of us continued on. This means that at 9:45am 7 peregrinos had decided to stop for the night! I gave this some thought as I walked on and it dawned on me that the new arrivals were not yet trail hardened for a 36km stage and stopped at the last place available. I guess my question would be, then why depart so early? But of course they would be excited and the adrenaline running. I get it!

The signage has changed...gone are the arch topped boxes, now it's posts...

Fortunately what has not changed are the abundant flowers. Having travelled over 500 kms north, spring is keeping pace which is brilliant...if you like flowers.

About half way into the walk today I caught up and walked with a late 20's fellow from Berlin who was very pleased to hear I was Canadian as I must be that Canadian. Apparently as he walks up to 50 kms per day he has crossed pathes with many of the folks who walked and socialized with me. That was a pretty cool experience, and apparently they are looking for me. Figure I'll catch up with a number of people in Zamora where I will stop for two nights and they will come into town while I'm there...hopefully.

A few more from today...

It should be clear now that I'm walking on the Meseta...long rolling hills...great for meditative walking as hard to miss your step. Though perhaps a photo of my credential would br in order at this time;

Just two pages left, so probably good that I have a second credencial.

Staying in a very nice albergue tonight. Actually ended up with my own room at a good price. The lady of the house will also be making me dinner tonight...wonder what we are having? No doubt something good as we are on a working farm and they always eat well on farms at home, so...

33 kms tomorrow to the Parador in Zamora! Can't wait to see what that looks like.

Buen Camino!