Sunday, May 31, 2020

Triacastela - Samos, 12 kms

Not As Long As We Remember

A few random photos from last evening and our walk today. After a zero day yesterday I was up early and waking up on my training bike to make sure my legs still worked. Apparently they still did, so after breakfast we walked in winds ranging from 30-45 kph. Not too bad, but when we were out of the sun it felt cool in our lights shirts and shorts.

Another interesting sunset last night. I took a short series of photos as the sky was lite up from end to end in all directions. It was really quite nice. 

Much later the moon poked through a hole in the heavy cloud cover, distorted by a strip of cloud. If you look closely down and to the right I think that's Venus showing. The hole closed very quickly, but it was kind of cool to catch that moment.

These flowers are our all over town. The latest in the parade of colour that breaks out in our SW coast of BC each spring.

We watched the Parks folks a couple of days ago again tying up the swings. Looks like they went to town!

A few days ago I noticed that on a No Exit sign we saw a small walker symbol. For 28 years I've walked, ridden and driven past this sign at the end of our street without noticing the little guy walking along. I'm not the only one to miss it as I've watched countless folks walk up our street before turning around after concluding that there's no way through. There is.


On our virtual camino we had a decision in front of us. Take the longer southern route via the Monasterio de Samos or the more northerly route via San Xil? I've walked both; the Samos option in 2013 and the other option in 2018. I liked each way, though the Samos route seems to go on and on particularly after Samos. The San Xil variant starts with a stiff climb, but is a bit more direct and the climb provides the walker with some nice views back towards yesterdays mountains as well as decent views forward. Both routes end up in Sarria which is after all the goal. In 2018, being ill, I was on a bit of a mission to complete our Camino For Alzheimer's Awareness, and I ended up walking some 43 kms to Portomarin after discovering that the albergue in Mercadoiro where I had booked a bed online was closed for the season. Yup, after 36 kms that was indeed a surprise! These things happen, so all you can do is just walk on to the next bed.

We again joined up with Ken at Samos so for the purposes of our virtual camino we will go that way. It's a nice walk and this will give me a chance to relive this experience some 7 years on. Besides, it was much warmer with sunshine in 2013. A nice way to remember a walk. For me it's about the weather. I'll take a hot sunny day any time.

We were well away before sunrise. What we didn't know until we caught up in Samos was that Ken had departed much earlier. But then, he got lost in the dark around San Cristobal do Real where the church is below.





Somewhat strangely Lastres isn't in my map book and I remember commenting to Annemarie at the time. I clearly took this photo for the other signage. Good plan.


There is lots of this sort of path on the Samos route. Really nice walking along back roads with the trees overhead as you often pass by steep earthen walls or the frequent moss covered hand made Galician stone fences. A favourite memory.
The trees are brilliant to walk past and under!

I think we can all agree that these types of surfaces aren't our favourite to walk on.

Hard on the feet and knees which is why Annemarie was taking her time.

The slate layered roofs of Galicia are now almost everywhere. 
With Halloween less than 2 weeks away it was strange to think at this point that we would be home in time for the celebration. However, at the start of the day we are just 137 kilometres from Santiago.
Annemarie was walking really nicely by this point. Her foot wasn't hurting and she was enjoying herself.
It's not really very far to Samos. Just over two hours and the monasterio is suddenly just below. I remember being surprised by just how suddenly it shows up. A wonderful sight from above.

Down another small country road,

and we arrive.

As I said we bumped into Ken when we arrived. He seemed to us to be kind of down and out of sorts that morning. We stopped to chat and we remember him seeming to cheer up at our meeting. We invited him to join us to tour the monastery and then walk on to Sarria, but he had already visited. He did say that he would wait for us so that we could walk on together which worked out splendidly. The monastery is only open at specific times when a monk is available to lead small groups through. We had to wait a short period for the next tour and we took the time to look around.

It's beautifully situated and we were really impressed with the place. So impressed that we've decided to stay the night in the monastery! A virtual stop. I'm not sure if Sarah and Neil walked this way, but for the purposes of our virtual camino we will assume they did and all stay here together.

Those are our rooms in the left tower.



The front door where the monk met our small group of pilgrims.









Of course St. James made an appearance.

We were each assigned a cell. I think our friends Neville and Julie stayed here in 2010 and Neville told me that the rooms were so damp, moldy and cold that they froze that night. They wore all their clothes inside their sleeping bags. We didn't want a repeat of their experience so we made sure to ask for cells with a heater and a fireplace. "No problem" was the cheerful reply. This was Ken's cell. That's Ken on the left reading.

This was Neil and Sarah's cell. Seems appropriate.

And this was our cell. Apparently a good place to write the blog.

We all went out for cold drinks to celebrate our short day before being treated to a fantastic meal at the monastery!

Where will we walk to next?

Buen Camino!

Saturday, May 30, 2020

O'Cebreiro - Tricastela, 22 kms

Day of Days!

Today has been grey with bits of rain. I thought I might paint, but I didn't. And after revamping some of my garden irrigation system I decided to take a bit of a rain day and basically goof off. No walking, no bike riding, no training in the basement. I decided to listen to some good music, read the press online and watch the space launch. A nice way to spend a poor weather Saturday afternoon. During the past two months I've done very little hanging around, except in the evenings. Feeling guilty? OK, maybe a little, but after having walked 800 kms since we started this process, Annemarie and I are ok with this decision.

Annemarie made us some excellent mushroom soup from scratch and has been working on her various projects. Now she's making a rhubarb and strawberry pie for tonight. Hmmm. Maybe I should have at least trained. Oh well. I can work it all off tomorrow, and on Monday my pal Dennis has figured out a nice 50-60 km bike ride for us to do together. Looking forward to that!

Today maybe I'll come back here and post a couple of photos from my garden instead of walking photos before I post.




Back on our virtual camino, in 2018 I think I'd have been quite happy to relax with a zero day. The wind was howling as I reached O'Cebreiro, and walking into that type of wind can be pretty uncomfortable. Trees were down along the trail in many places and the sun didn’t show itself until I was finishing in Tricastela. The good news is that after about 9 kms of additional uphill the trail drops gravity blessedly takes over. 

In 2013 our bar accommodation with Ken. Ken was feeling pretty tired and because it was a shorter 22 km day he slept in, took a slow morning and left late. A nice thing to do sometimes!

Early morning 2013. While it was a cool start and I wore my gloves, once the clouds lifted it was a much better day than the day before.

Annemarie caught me in the act,

and this is the photo I was taking.

We were soon approaching Liñares. A kind of neat experience as the clouds slowly lifted to allow us to see the hamlet.

In 2018 it was all I could do to hold the camera steady. Having started at the foot of the climb I began to catch those who had started their day from O'Cebreiro.



The country side is pure Galicia. I've been able to walk in different parts of this province many times and I've always liked it's look and feel...at least when it's warm. Much like Scotland and Ireland in so many ways, and yet also very Spanish. I'm sure someone has written a book about this?







Though you think that this sign would mark the top of the pass, it was only in place for the cars as we would climb a bit more.

The pass is marked by the statue of a wind battered pilgrim. I knew exactly how he felt!

Annemarie photographed me in 2013. Note the gloves with shorts. Cool at the start, the sun soon came out and warmed up to about 24 when we eventually reached lower elevations.  It was one of our favourite walking days that year. In contrast, by this point in 2018 I was bundled up in my Gortex wet gear, the dry warmer clothes I'd pulled on at the church in O'Cebreiro and my warm vest that about 20 minutes earlier I'd stopped by the side of the road and managed to pull on. The wind chill was well below zero.





I have a photo a bit like this on my wall taken in mid October, 2013.

By mid November 2018 its didn't look quite as nice. I'd been looking forward to finding this place again with a better camera, but the weather wasn't cooperating and besides, the tree was stripped bare, leaves, berries and all!

So for the majority of this post I'll stay in 2013. Warmer, kinder and a much more pleasant day. A day of days!





On the final climb to Alto do Poio the clouds swept over us and i remember how much I enjoyed that sensation.



Outside the village church in 2018. It was locked as I passed.

Inside in 2013.

In 2013 this really was one of those wonderful walking days! So good to relive this experience again.



It's just about here as we entered Fonfria that gravity really takes over in a most positive way. The drop from here is steady, but not difficult.

Back into cattle country!















The first view of Tricastela.

2018...no sun yet.







Ken's journal notes just arrived as I was finishing this blog post!

The pilgrims seem exhausted except a very few. There were some people here before--an American, two Brits--complaining about the flies. It’s a rural place; there are always lot of flies in the fall. Is that really a reason to complain? 


There weren't many places open in 2018, but fortunately this place was and it was ok. Warm.

Annemarie's poem written that evening caught exactly how we had both been feeling on that beautiful October day!

Today

A while back I wrote a verse indicating that it just gets better
That was about a great experience we had when the weather was wetter

There have been days when we were just trying to get from A to B
This was particularly true when my toe was bothering me

But today I again felt this experience just keeps improving
This feeling came to me repeatedly as along mountain tracks we were moving

The weather cleared, and the sun shone throughout the day
The temperature was perfect, neither hot nor cold all the way

But it was the vistas that left their mark
As around each bend we would again remark

Many pictures were taken to attempt to capture the beauty
Even my camera came out of it's case quite frequently

Days like this lift the spirit, even when the terrain is strenuous 
There were climbs and descents, quite numerous

The pictures we took may or may not match those in our minds eye
We will look back on this day and the joy it brought; the memory will probably elicit a sigh

I'm done and the pie is out of the oven! Yummmm!

Buen Camino!