Yet again we experienced a beautiful sunset last night. The sky just keeps on giving as we transition into May.
The past four days we've kept our walks between 10-13 kms largely because in there was a weekend when we knew the trails and areas we like to walk would be busier. Even though we head off early, it seems that during these virus times that others have the same idea. Knowing today that we planned to walk 20 kms we again checked all the weather apps and went out the door just after 8. Seems the majority of forecasters have moved home and into their parent's basements during these uncertain times to save rent and are only looking out their windows when making their weather calls! This morning was no exception. The call for sunshine was overcome by grey clouds and a bit of cool wind. No worries as we discovered that the mediocre weather kept the majority inside. Nice!
We decided as before that while we had to honour the restrictions of our leaders these days that we could see what adjustments were possible to make the waterfront walk just a little different this time. A small shake up if you like. We walked through the other side of the university grounds for a different start before deviating through trees and crossing a field which led us into our local upper end suburbia. We wound our way through well presented homes with their finely manicured lawns and gardens preserved by endless teams of contractors and gardeners some of who drove by us in their new shiny trucks, trailers in tow. As my late aunt used to say, "I don't want to live there, but it's nice of them to keep all their gardens so nice for my walks". Good point.
There certainly was lots to see. Someone apparently figured out where they were and left a strong hint for everyone else!
We walked to the end of the first beach and because there was no one around we sat down on one of three benches there just for a change of routine, and because we could. We rarely stop on these wanders for very long.
We turned on to a headland trail that we hadn't used before. The trail was narrow, but again there was no one around so I decided to take the risk. We found another nice bench at some point and we sat down. Again. Annemarie is still in shock: )
What a nice find! Wind stunted oaks with spring wild flowers scattered around.
We continued onwards looking across the Straights in search of a better angle on Mount Baker which sat nicely in the morning sunshine. The sunshine that our basement dwelling weather people had allegedly forecast for us. Strangely this photo looks more like a water colour painting. The camera in my phone has limitations though I often push it when I can. It's performed better than I thought it would, but I can see that in certain lighting it's limitations are clearly evident. I'm beginning to think about carrying my Sony camera again. Today as we walked I was thinking about what the replacement camera for it might be as it's been intensively used on many walks and travels. It still works well and I love it, but it's beginning to show some stress. Nice thing about walking, the mind will wander to some interesting places.
Back in Spain, you will recall that Annemarie was now on the baggage car and I had accepted Peter and Dave's friendly invite to walk on with them. There was a noticeable uptempo in the pace which I happily welcomed after an understandably slower pace due to Annemarie's foot injury. We three were to race each other in Australia during our morning walks along the Queensland coast in 2015. Good memories!
As the new kid on the block I took up the trailing sweeper position with Peter leading and Dave moving forward well with his still recovering foot injury. I've always thought that it would be memorable and a ridiculous amount of fun to walk with these two: ) Just waiting for the invite boys!
The road runs west through a long valley towards Casterojeriz.
Turned out that my friends were using bottles to carry their water and they stopped for 5 minutes approximately each hour to rest and drink. Peter on the left, Dave on the right.
That might have been the tree where we stopped? I took this shot in 2018.
Arriving at the roadside ruins of the Convento de San Antón in 2013.
And again in 2018.
As it turned out, the road ran right through the ruins.
I was walking with a young woman who practiced law in Paris and she was walking to determine next steps for her career. We spent a couple of hours talking about the sort of things one talks about when on the Camino. Daily destinations, reasons for walking, good and bad experiences along The Way. The usual.
Castrojeriz with its hilltop fortress comes into sight. Peter sensing the barn, a hot shower and a cold beer picks up his pace as the rain falls.
The same approach in 2018 without rain, just a cold wind. But the blue sky compensated nicely.
Two more of our crew for the day are coming into town, no doubt looking at their phones to locate their accommodations for the evening.
Halloween was just two days away, and it is celebrated in Spain these days!
Looking southward down the valley. From here we turn sharply west and climb out of the valley, but that's part of our story for tomorrow.
This was the group I caught up to in 2018. A very nice group of 'young' people who had started this stage in Hornillos. They graciously invited this 'old' fella to join them for dinner. We enjoyed a really nice evening and their company was really appreciated that evening.
Taken from our funky full service campground in 2013 where we stayed in a cute trailer that night, something that we were to do on most of our caminos in the following years. This one was much less cute than others, but it was functional and dry.
Camp ground trailer in 2013.
With Annemarie's concurrence I stayed a bit more upscale in 2018! It was housed in a lovely old building, and just the place for a tired pilgrim who had walked a very long way that day.
That night we went out for a brilliant dinner with many of the people we'd met along the way including a couple from Kelowna and Dave and Peter. As we ate a massive lightening and thunder storm when right overhead. Violent and dazzling all at the same time! We walked back through town to our campground and another storm wave rolled down the valley. I took this photo from the campsite. Not the best quality, but then again, not too bad for a hand held point and shoot camera. On reflection, I wish now that I'd taken a video. It was that dramatic.
Ken's experiences, and I'm wondering if we were here on the same day, October 2nd? Turns out we were indeed here on the same night. Neil and Sarah were here as well and took a couple of nights in a pension in order to catch up some sleep. We all walked out the next day as will come clear, but not together!
Castrojeríz:
When it’s raining it’s hard to be grateful. Everything gets harder. Clothes don’t dry. In the crowded--packed--albergue last night, nothing dried. Wet fabric on wet flesh--either I perspire under the rain gear and get wet, or without the rain gear I get wet from the sky--wet fabric on wet skin is like sandpaper and I have a big [I can’t read the next word--scar?]-like thing on my right inner thigh. Hoping that stuff starts drying out now. Apparently it’s cleared up--it’s been trying to all day--so I hope tomorrow will be different.
The rain left part of the path today a long line of red gumbo mud which was hard to navigate. The first section of today was the hardest, rain, sweaty rain gear, mud.
It was easier to walk across a stubbled field than on the path--something I never thought I’d experience.
For a plain, the meseta has a lot of hills. Sometimes it looks like Saskatchewan but mostly it’s more like Spain, only fewer villages and greater distances to travel for coffee etc.
The room here is so big and bright and lined with colour photos of the Camino taken by two professional photographers.
Buying a neck wallet at the gear store in Castrojeríz:
Getting the neck wallet like a minor miracle--tossed the money belt, which had split along one seam anyway. Now I know which I prefer.
The next morning in Castrojeríz:
Huge thunderstorm last night while we were in the bar. [I] was sure my clothes would be soaked but the hospitalero [his name was Paco] moved the whole line to shelter--what a great guy. He was out of here at 10 o’clock last night, back before 7. And likely a volunteer. I wish my Spanish was better so I could talk to him. He bought a round of beer for us last night, too.
Buen Camino!
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