Thursday, May 14, 2020

León

León, A Three-peat!

We did go actually go for a good walk today, 

but given I've walked through Leon twice and started with Rob there in 2016 I decided that I'd post a series of photos and videos from those three visits. It is one of the jewels along the Camino Frances, and many peregrinos take a zero day here to recharge and see the sights before finishing the Meseta and beginning the climbs that carry on into Galicia.

The Cathedral is the main draw and I've found myself heading there along this main pedestrian street very soon after arriving each time.

Absolutely stunning, outside and in.

Still sorting out the video in 2013! However, you can listen to the bells ringing.

In 2013 Ken put it this way;

León

After siesta, walked back to the cathedral, which is stunning. The stained glass--amazing. I walked out completely overwhelmed. Took photos of the windows inside, some of the front doors. A little boy was in one, so I played at photographing kids on the way back. Three kids were yelling and jumping up and down and I took several pictures of them in their school uniforms. 

I couldn't agree more. There are in fact 3 front doors, and a beautiful rose window, covered for renovation in the 2018 photo above.

Just one of the carved doors.

Stepping inside, we were greeted by, as Ken puts it, the amazing stained glass windows.

The main rose window above the front doors I believe.






The grandeur of the cathedral forces you to just stop and look around in wonder.

If you're really lucky like we were in 2013 you'll find an organist practicing for the organist competition which is held annually in the Cathedral.







Like Ken, I found the kids highly entertaining as they ran around the plaza in front of the cathedral. As I recall, there is a school next door to the museum just to the right.



On that October Wednesday in 2013, Neil and Sarah had walked onwards, Marianne had caught the train for Denmark and there remained just the three of us. Ken, Annemarie and I. Badly missing our companions we decided to splurge on dinner. We all agreed that it was the thing to do. After walking endlessly in a circle finding little open mid-week, we found Restaurante Alborada almost back where we'd started our search. It was worth waiting for. I took this photo in 2016 as I wanted to find it again so I could post it for Ken and Annemarie to remember.

Spanish restaurants don't usually open until after 8 PM, and being pilgrims with typically early morning departures we usually looked for dinner earlier if possible. The owner of this restaurant hadn't been open very long, and he welcomed us clean, but humbly dressed peregrinos in to his beautiful restaurant. White table clothes and fine china! We were definitely under dressed. Our host didn't seem to care obviously understanding our intent. He spoke only Spanish, but fortunately Ken spoke more than we did and he managed to get us nicely through the menu process. No small thing!

Though not ordered, the owner delivered a very nice appie to our table. We were delighted. And so good!

Then the main courses began to arrive and with it the vino tinto.



I now kick myself that I didn't ask for a photo of the three of us taken with the owner. In those days I was more comfortable taking photos of landscapes, buildings and cows. What was I thinking? These days I would ask.

Then dessert. Served on slate squares no less. This was followed by an aperitif, also a gift.

I recall that Rob and I didn't do too badly in Leon either. Mind you, we were still looked pretty fresh at the beginning of our August 2016 camino. Actually, I think Rob and I went on to over eat our way across the Invierno! The motherly women running some of the bars and restaurants must have thought we were under nourished as they often provided us with huge plates of food.

After dinner, Leon is well worth viewing at night. As Rob and I found, you never quite know what will happen.






As the evening gets later, things always pick up.







The Parador at night;

Parador breakfast each morning was literally beyond belief! For weeks we had usually had toast, tea/coffee, sometimes yogurt and if really lucky we had an egg. This was almost too much.



Other peregrinos not staying at the Parador would come over just for the breakfast which they could purchase as a one off. Ken, I almost got the rest of you in this photo, lol!

Then it was time to leave...unless you had another day in town.

The bridge that you cross on your way out of town along the camino. That's the Rio Bernesga flowing past and the Parador in the background.

Rob, though jet lagged, was keen to get going!



And so we will again tomorrow.

Buen Camino!

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