We went to bed last night fully expecting to wake up to the forecasted rain, but once again the kids calling the weather from their parent's basement didn't get things quite right. One weather app said that it was raining lightly while the other said that it was just cloudy. We opted for the better forecast and left our umbrellas at home. It was cooler as we set off around 8:30, but we both decided that just a light t-shirt and a very light windbreaker would be adequate. We could have left the jackets behind. It was pretty nice walking today in a walker friendly weather bubble.
Early into the walk we passed a young woman standing with three lovely dogs by the side of the trail. We weren't sure why they were having a time out, but I guess something had been said.
Again today there was wild life, while sort of. The only time you really have to be concerned with the deer here is during rutting season, but that's not until the fall, so no problem.
We passed our first bunch of Spanish lavender this morning. Well, the second as mine is along side our front driveway. My plant isn't quite as mature as this one, perhaps 2 years younger, and I'm looking forward to the change. I have a photo on the wall beside where I'm writing today showing the wild lavender trailside from 2014 when I soloed the Via de la Plata. It was often alongside the trail for hours and I grew to love it, the small flowers with their tuffs on top.
It was surprisingly calm on the water this morning. Almost glass calm.
Very reflective. The first time I've seen it this way while walking this year. Usually there's a stiff wind during the winter and spring. I guess summer can't be too many weeks away now.
I took this steel monument for Ken today given his work around our First Nations and his walks through their territories while bringing attention to their plight the past century.
We added several new variants to our 20 km route today, sometimes to freshen it up and other times to avoid construction areas. I think my pal Ted once told me that he grew up in the neighbourhood where a house turret was located. Is this the area Ted? You can find all sorts of odd things in Oak Bay. For example, we also passed a big heavy older Caddy which prompted Annemarie's comment, "typical Oak Bay". It was licensed too! 
Every time I walk bast this nice bench I think about just how pleasant it would be to sit here and look out over the water as was no doubt intended when they allowed this remembrance bench to be placed here. Of course I might actually enjoy sitting here if they ever removed some of the growth so I could actually enjoy the view! Like I said, there are some odd things in Oak Bay, but generally it's a nice area to walk through.
We walked a good 20 km today with lots of energy, but when some big black clouds drifted overhead we began to wonder if the kids in the basement had been right about the weather after all. However, we arrived home unscathed and watched the heavy black clouds deposit their rain on the Highlands to the west and before moving to the north. Happily the south end of our Island often experiences these friendly weather bubbles! Looking to the northwest from our house.
Every time I walk bast this nice bench I think about just how pleasant it would be to sit here and look out over the water as was no doubt intended when they allowed this remembrance bench to be placed here. Of course I might actually enjoy sitting here if they ever removed some of the growth so I could actually enjoy the view! Like I said, there are some odd things in Oak Bay, but generally it's a nice area to walk through.
We walked a good 20 km today with lots of energy, but when some big black clouds drifted overhead we began to wonder if the kids in the basement had been right about the weather after all. However, we arrived home unscathed and watched the heavy black clouds deposit their rain on the Highlands to the west and before moving to the north. Happily the south end of our Island often experiences these friendly weather bubbles! Looking to the northwest from our house.
Ok, back out on our virtual camino we headed off to walk the 20 kms into central Leon on what I described at the time as,
Today's walk in to Leon was pretty non-descript with two busy, noisy highways flanking us on both sides much of the way. We started off from our truck stop type hotel, found a nice breakfast on our way and were out of town close to 8am. It's still dark at that time, and it was very cold...4Cish...there was frost. As usual I set out wearing practically nothing as I like to start cold and warm up, but today it was just too freaking cold! So we stopped after 5 kms at a bar (where else) where I put on a shirt under my light jacket. We found Ken and Marianne and were able to say our sad goodbyes to Marianne who leaves the Camino today to return home to her washer and dryer in Copenhagen... I will miss your amazing sense of humour and your smile!
Reviewing my photos from the walk into Leon I can see that there were a few worthy sights to see. Take this bridge for example.
And there was some original, though unsigned Camino art as well.
I must say, I was finally beginning to tire of the flat trail.
This small hill as we approached Leon was the first sign of any sort of significant elevation change since Castrojeriz, about 130 kms in our rearview mirror! By this time we could sense a bit of urgency as almost everyone was seemingly hurrying towards Leon.
It's difficult to express how we felt at this point. Almost 500 kms along the Camino on our first distance walk having dealt successfully in Logroño with Annemarie's allergic reaction, but not so successfully with her broken toe and blisters which still plagued her. We'd climbed mountains, walked through several long wet days, trudged through glue-like mud and plodded along shadeless trails under relentless sun. We'd survived everything the camino had so far put in front of us. Our mid-life bodies toughened and capable of walking all day.
Happily there were many pleasures. Sharing a bottle of wine and tales from the road at the end of each day with the many people we'd met, all whom had survived their own trials and successes. We'd met and bonded with some wonderful people; Ken, Marianne, Sarah, Neil, Peter, David and many others. We'd enjoyed sunrises most mornings from the trail, viewed continuously changing vistas, climbed over the Pyrenees, stayed in unique accommodations, sat in wonder inside Eunate, imagined Pamplona's running of the bulls, visited the magnificent Cathedral in Burgos, eaten grapes right off the vine and sampled those yummy Spanish wines. We'd experienced many unexpected emotions and made life changing decisions. In short, it was brilliant. And there was still 320 kilometres remaining to be walked!
Looking back across the Meseta from the top of the hill.
I still laugh when I see this sign. Home Depot in North America becomes Brico Depot in Spain! Too funny.
Crossing the pedestrian bridge just before descending into Leon.
About to enter Leon's old city walls.
We again met the California family at the gate; Dave, Sylvia, Beth and Sarah (we found their names, but no contact info) and they kindly took this photo of us.
And then we were into the central town.
Lots of wide pedestrian friendly streets. Having travelled Spain extensively over the past decade, it's been strange and sad to see the usually busy streets of Spain essentially empty of people because of the virus which has hit this country so hard. Thankfully things are just beginning to improve, allowing folks to get out of their homes for a couple of hours a day.
Of course having watched the movie, The Way before setting off, we'd all decided to stay in Leon's famous Parador. Paradors are usually historic buildings throughout Spain which have been converted to high end hotels and leased to an operator by the Spanish Government. We got a real deal by booking about a week ahead, 60 euros.
In 2013 Annemarie and I got a nice room, but not nearly as nice as Tom's room in The Way, but nice enough: )
Great views.
We of course washed almost all our clothes. They were so dirty!
Ken used the Parador's laundry service just as the cast of The Way had done and I believe it was fairly expensive. He was delighted as each piece of clothing came in its own separate bag! For several days when we were again back together he would pull out something clean and in its original Paradore labeled bag. It was quite hilarious!
In August 2016 when Rob and I walked the Camino Invierno from Leon to Santiago we stayed in a lively part of the city.
In 2018 I arrived in Leon in early November and it wasn't quite so warm or very lively. I stayed in a hotel on this square.
My hotel.
And at night.
Tomorrow I will take you on a tour of Leon. Lots of videos to post!
Buen Camino!
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