Whenever we've been away distance walking it seems that no matter what the weather might be doing we have always walked on. Without fail. This sometimes means walking in stupid heat where the cows standing in the tree shade look at you funny as you pass like I did on a stage just out of Sevilla in May 2014 when the heat reached about 40 degrees.
Or walking in monsoon-like rain storms that we were clearly taught early in childhood to avoid. Particularly when there's lightning, which I found myself in the middle of while walking the 88 Temple route in Japan during the spring of 2017. Even taking a photo on that day was to put your camera at serious risk!
Most committed distance walkers are out in all types of weather. In reality, generally being somewhat normal types, we groan when we first look out the window and see nasty weather. However, once properly prepared to face the elements we step out the door and back onto the camino. It comes with the practice and it's just part of the experience. Fortunately there are generally many more fair weather days like this day on the Camino Aragonnes.
Given this is a virtual camino I figure that having done all these contrarian type things more than a few times, that it's ok to stay inside to miss the steady rain falling here. It's been rumoured to sweep in off the Pacific all week, and it's finally arrived. I've been avoiding a quick return to the triple-P (my Pandemic Painting Project), and rather than risk approaching any level of boredom, I turned on my music and painted much of the day. The alternative was to prepare our tax returns. Yuck!
Out on the Camino, we have a short stage to a favourite place that many folks often walk through, particularly if they are following the Brierley guide which is well known and liked by some pilgrims from English speaking countries. The problem is that accommodations at the end of those stages, aka, the Brierley Stages are generally busy. Very busy. Being that Hospital isn't sort of on the map in Brierley, it's an ideal stop, though as we found in 2013 it can get quite busy with both walkers and holidayers.
Storks, usually departed southwards by early September, often find some interesting places to nest.
2018.
Generally a flat stage, it can also be a very hot stage.
The same in August 2016, though at least there was still some green around and the bull rushes were a nice change.
Lots of irrigation in this agricultural zone. Kind of adds to the walking experience because the water ways attract small animals and lots of birds.
There is I believe, a government run cattle operation along here with expensive fencing and also small research facilities. The signage all recommends calling a government office if access is wanted.
These couldn't belong to the forecaster we've been using.
As said, it was quite hot in the open air, probably close to 30 degrees. Not many places to stop, but this old irrigation hub provided a timely place for a brief rest.
I amused myself.
What bits of shade there was that year were taken by other peregrinos crouched and resting.
In 2018 this wasn't too much of a problem. I was just wondering what might be open this late into November as I headed towards Hospital.
Originally it was permitted for peregrinos to cross these tracks on the way through.
And there goes Annemarie.
However in 2016 this had been changed forcing Rob and I to deviate a couple of kilometres through the village of Villavante and over a bridge then all the way back to the old track crossing.
We took the detour which was quite unnecessary on a hot day. Though it was nice to see the sunflowers and not the usual end of season browned out fields of them.
In 2018 I remembered this inconvenience, and as in 2013 I simply continued straight on and over the tracks. Sometimes the routes on various caminos, almost all of them, are adjusted to take peregrinos out of their way and through a local small village or town where the hope is that they will feel compelled to stop for food or drink. Sometimes it is nice to stop, but other times when almost at the end of a stage as you are here, you just want to get in.
Approaching from the variant vs the primary Camino route that unfortunately follows the N120, the camino continues across an overpass that provides the initial views of Hospital.
The iconic water tower that made me think, oh ya, this place, while walking in 2016 and 2018.
2018.
The sight of this church from the back also reminds me that I'm almost in.
Then quite suddenly one of the architectural highlights of the Camino Frances comes into view. The medieval bridge. Hard to miss it's so long. In 2016 Rob and I stayed in the hostel at the far end of the bridge on the left. It was full in 2013 and closed when I arrived in 2018.
It's very cool to walk across this bridge. Those are jousting lanes where a tournament is held annually (to the left) just as they apparently were here in medieval times.
I recall that once upon a time (2013) the hostel had a huge sign on the roof that said "HOSTEL". Apparently they made all the guide books and the sign came down. Hard to miss anyway.
Of course, stage over we badly needed some food and rehydration.
Apparently more than once as the above photos were both taken while I was with Rob. He's a bad influence! The second beer was dynamite stuff with a very good kick! Below, our view while rehydrating.
In 2013 when Annemarie and I arrived, things were pretty booked up, and on that first camino the albergues weren't often our first choice. We preferred as a married couple trying to reintroduce ourselves to each other after two busy careers and raising three active kids to find cheap alternatives with a bit more privacy and space. In this case at a truck stop out on the busy N120. During prior travels in Spain when we'd had a car we discover these types of accommodations. The rooms are usually super cheap and clean. This place was no exception.
With everything pretty much closed down in November 2018 I again walked out of town to the same truck stop and sure enough there was a cheap, clean room available.
And as is often the case at truck stops there was a bar on the main floor where the locals and truck drivers were hanging out. A simple meal can be found and usually there's a TV turned on with the news, weather, etc. All good information for the distance walker, even if your Spanish is a bit sketchy: )
In 2016, Rob and I found a very good place to dine in the back room of a bar which is quite common in Spain. The proprietor served us a very good meal complete with a good red wine and dessert. Much better than the one I had alone at the truck stop! But hey, I had a dry room, clean bed and a meal. Not much more is required.
Buen Camino!
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