What's It All About?
A couple of years ago a new series on PBS titled
Sacred Journeys premiered and covered six amazing ancient pilgrimages. They were exceptional presentations covering pilgrimages to places like Mecca and Lourdes. A series well worth looking for if you are interested. To my surprise the Camino Frances in Spain wasn't among those presented, however the 88 Temple pilgrimage on the island of Shikoku, Japan was, and it immediately captured my imagination. Since then this journey has never been too far away from my thoughts. I knew that one day when the time was right and I felt that I had perhaps 'earned' the privilege that I'd hopefully be going there to participate. Surprisingly this door opened a little earlier than expected, and with Annemarie's support I've decided to step through it. As a matter of fact, it was Annemarie who presented me with the current opportunity to go now, so she's coming too for a time.
While walking in France in October we discussed next things for 2017. With all the walking the past 4 years (approximately 4,000 kms on the trial plus countless kilometres of training), another walk wasn't really in the cards until 2018 and we were giving serious consideration to returning to Europe for our third long ride on touring bikes plus a travel to South America later in the year. However Annemarie's May/June commitments presented several roadblocks to making this a reality. We discussed various other travel options before Annemarie suggested that perhaps we should head for Japan to have a look around, something that has been on our radar for a few years. We looked at our calendar and this seemed to fit into her March/April availability window. One thing led to another and as I wasn't needed at home during Annemarie's commitments, the door tentatively opened to the Shikoku pilgrimage.
I'll admit to initially being a bit taken aback, but over the following weeks my commitment and curiosity crystallized to the point that I ordered and received the route map book from Japan. We've subsequently discussed the trip in more detail and tentatively think that we will first travel Japan for two weeks before beginning the pilgrimage together. Annemarie will then walk about two weeks with me before heading home in mid April and I'll continue onwards for as long as I feel the pull to do so. Still to be sorted out.
As far as the route itself goes, for those that haven't been spending their spare time reading about this pilgrimage over the past couple of years I can tell you that it's located on the smallest of the four main islands of Japan. As the name suggests the route consists of 88 principal temples, 20 secondary temples and a multitude of shrines and supporting smaller temples. It's thought that Kõbõ Daishi who was the founder of Shingon Buddhism in Japan, trained and spent time at many of these temples during the 8th century. As such he is considered the originator of the pilgrimage and his image is recorded in paintings and stone sculptures throughout the route. Many Japanese feel that he supports them on their journey and is the source of their strength. Of course all assistance is always appreciated on these long journeys!
As indicated in the map below the temples are numbered and each has a name. Pilgrims, or
Henro as they are known in Japan, typically start their journey at Temple 1 which is located in the NE portion of the Island just outside the city of Tokushima. One can choose to walk clockwise from Temple 1 to Temple 88 or in the opposite direction which can be challenging as it's more difficult to see the red route markers...typical of most marked distance routes. The route stretches 1,150 to 1,350 kms depending on the number of secondary temples one chooses to visit. It typically takes 40-50 days to walk the entire route, however the majority of the 150/200,000 Japanese Henro who make this journey each year do so by bus tour or car over about a week. As I understand it, the Japanese experience is largely temple focussed with large car parks at each temple. Of course this makes me happy because it means that the trails should hopefully be relatively quiet, albeit the temple sites will probably be pretty busy...you can't have it all! I've read that only 300-500 non-Japanese walk the pilgrimage each year so in some ways it will be much like walking the Via de la Plata or the Levante in Spain. The number of non-Japanese Henro walking the route is increasing each year which is part of what is driving me to go sooner rather than later. I've seen what can often happen on some of the more popular routes in Europe as the numbers grow.
There are lots of ups and downs on this route, not the least of which are the vertical climbs and descents, particularly on the last half of the route. The highest vertical climb is just over 930 meters (3,300') so my legs are going to get a workout! And there are lots and lots and lots of stairs...I hate stairs:) I'm thinking about taking my smaller trek pack and as little gear as I can manage to get away with. Below is a blurry profile chart, but it gives one an idea.
Some of the other challenges inherent to this route include communication (extremely little English spoken on Shikoku) understanding what food to order in restaurants and the potential for meeting unusual critters. Some might suggest these things just add to the attraction of the route...we shall see!
Apparently the best time of year to walk the Shikoku route (33 degrees N. latitude) is March to May when the weather is warming, the precipitation averages are lower and the many varieties of cherry trees are blossoming.
A time of renewal.
Its possible to go earlier, but there is a risk of snow well into spring at higher elevations. In June the precipitation increases considerably and through July and August its much too hot with extreme humidity. The fall months of September through November are also good walking times, however, typhoons frequent these shores during this period making for potentially very wet, windy conditions. Not always ideal for us fair weather walkers!
One of the very unique aspects of this pilgrimage compared with most others is that Henro are encouraged to wear some or all of the traditional clothing. This apparently helps separate them from backpackers and tourists in the eyes of the locals. I've learned that one isn't required to wear the entire outfit, but should at least wear the white vest
wagesa and several of the smaller items including a couple of bells to keep the wild boar away! More about the critters in a future post.
The local Shikoku population apparently take great interest and pride in the pilgrimage, and as I understand the process they will offer Henro small gifts called
osettai ranging from a few candies, to a meal and even money. Apparently its considered impolite to decline osettai (except car rides) because with the gift of ossetai the locals feel that they are giving to Kõbõ Daishi and this ancient custom of giving is an important part of the pilgrimage. I've experienced many similar examples of this type of generosity on my previous journeys and its sometimes a bit overwhelming and inspiring.
So that's the nuts and bolts of this ancient journey without going into the depths of the religion, the culture and everything else. That's for discovery during the journey. There is a real
shortage of wifi on this route and I'm looking to see what the blog posting options might look like.
An Addendum: I wrote much of the above over the past few weeks as I first researched and read more about this pilgrimage. We have now booked our flights and have committed. We depart mid-March and after two weeks of touring Japan we expect to begin our walk on March 30th. Annemarie will walk with me for about 18 days before heading for home. We are both extremely excited about experiencing what looks like an amazing journey. New experiences and challenges...can hardly wait! Now where did I put that darn Japanese phase book? Lots to do over the next 10 weeks.
