As we sat having a light breakfast early this morning we looked out at the gloomy, grey low clouds and wondered if we should stay home or go for it. Every weather app we checked suggested that rain was imminent. One even told us that the rain had already arrived. We distance walked 27 of 30 days in April so who would know or even care if we didn't walk today? The word integrity came up and the next thing we knew we were walking down the road, umbrellas in hand. Then the rain started. We were just a few steps down the road, but once out it gets easy and we pushed on. Maybe it was thoughts of the matrimonial squares Annemarie was going to make today? Nope, that idea came up during the walk. I guess we just both knew we had to get out and stay active. It's so easy to give in to the temptation to have a slow day, drink tea, read books. Maybe if this isolation goes much longer we'll give in?
It was fitting that we walked in the rain today. In 2013 we walked this same stage on an extremely wet day, and we reflected on that day as we walked. It was a very good day as it turned out, but more on that below.
Though it is Saturday, the trails were pretty quiet today with the occasional jogger and dog walker. Then again we were out quite early.
I was surprised at what I found to photograph. This beautiful Rhodo above a plot of Bluebells. A very nice combo!
A very large flowering tree. I like trees when I walk, particularly the big standalone trees.
Something's home sweet home?
On the Camino itself that October 1st it was a god-awful day. It rained heavily from start to finish.
I wrote this later that day.
They do say that the rain in Spain falls mainly on the plain...and we can confirm that it does! It poured the whole way today. While we appreciate the deluge that home is presently experiencing, it's different when you have to walk all day in it. Truly an ugly day, and to top it off Annemarie's toe kicked up through the first half of the day until we found some relief for her at the 12km mark in Tardajos at a pharmacy. Add a good tape job and she was off again to complete a very soggy walk (we also stopped there for a hot drink with Peter and Dave). One thing I will say, as we passed folks today, while soaked, everyone had a kind word and a smile...without fail. Tremendous spirit...after all, we are all here because we chose to be here.
Obviously not many photos were taken that day!
Our Dutch friend with plastic bags over her boots.
Then just before Hornillos and with soaking wet feet Annemarie was finally smiling.
In 2018 things were much better. I walked from Burgos, straight through Hornillios and all the way to Castrojeriz, dry all the way, though it was very windy with a -5 windchill and snow flurries off and on all day. Even still, much better than in 2013!
It was snowing as I passed through Rabé de las Calzadas.
Dead boot.
It was a beautiful and remote walk that day, October 29th. Except for one Spanish cyclist I didn't see another sole all the way to Hornillos. I never expected to have this sort of solo experience on this particular Camino route. Less the heat, it was much like walking north of Salamanca on the Via de la Plata in 2014. So quiet. Just the birds and the wind as I set out across the Northern Meseta.
And the snow squall line!
Hornillos. Ken's 2013 journal entry;
As Ken points out, Hornillos had a bad reputation with pilgrims in 2013 as the accommodation was so poor. Happily there are many more beds here now with 3 albergues and a new restaurant servicing the massive pilgrim community that passes by here each year. Well, not this year. Hopefully they all survive without revenue this season.
It was this reputation that made me look at other alternatives before leaving home in 2013. We stayed at Casa Rural El Molino del Camino that I'd read about. Many of the local farms house pilgrims given the inadequate lodging in town. We were picked up at a bar in town by the owner of the casa and we experienced one of the most memorable evenings we've ever had on any of our distance walks.
The farm house was huge with multiple additions, very thick walls and it oozed calmness.
The perfect place to dry out after a storm.
Turns out that this is where much of the movie The Way was filmed in 2010 as Emillo Estivan's son married the owner's daughter. Martin Sheen and the cast stayed here for many weeks during the shooting of the film and they walked up and down the fields in back of the farm.
The grandparents are in the movie as well. The grandfather.
The huge family wedding was hosted here and we were shown the wedding alblum to boot!
Dinner that night was something special. The Irish, Spanish and Canadians were all there.
The food was outstanding and the wine was pretty good too! Once the drinks, food and rooms were all added up, it turned out that it was surprisingly inexpensive, but clearly it's not targeted at the student pilgrims. I'd actually learned about it from a woman I met online on a camino forum named Margaret who had walked the camino late fall 7 times and always stayed here. Good recommendation!
Black pudding that were part of our appies. Very good!
Dessert was followed by that magnificent green herb infused liqueur that north central Spain is so well known for.
If you stay here be warned, the house rule is that you have to perform. The Irish sang beautifully, as usual. The most beautiful song files were too large to upload. A shame because one of the women had a strikingly beautiful voice.
The Spanish sang, and danced.
When it came to the 6 Canadians turn to perform none of us knew a suitable song to sing. An old rugby song wan't going to work. It's not really a part of our culture to sing historic ballads in the bar. So while I stood and thanked the table and our hosts for a lovely evening, Annemarie did what Annemarie does. She wrote a beautiful poem, but the video file was too large to download. So here's the written version. Keep in mind that she wrote this on the fly. I was very proud of her!
It just gets better
This has been a long post, but some stages are really special with lots of wonderful memories and good experiences. Besides, it's presently raining hard and the wind is howling. How fitting!
Buen Camino
Addendum: I found this post from Annemarie in my blog today (Sunday) and wanted to add it;
Geoff set off on his own this morning for a solo 27 kms, and I sit with a cafe con leche waiting for my ride to Fromista where hopefully I will get my toe all fixed up, and be good to walk the rest of the way. Geoff had done quite a lovely post about our evening at La Molina outside of Hornillos, but through the magic of the ozone, it disappeared, so he asked that if I have time, I put in a few words about it... La Molinas is a Casa Rural out in the middle of nowhere, a sprawling farm property that can accommodate 18 guests. The place in itself is spectacular, but for us it was the people who were gathered there that night that made it extra special. We were driven there by Carmen, a woman with warm eyes, and a loving approach who drives like a maniac. Her parents, too, present as the ultimate hosts...fully opening their home to their guest, making us all feel like a large family for the day. After coming though a drenching rain, we were placed in front of a roaring fire with warm drinks and our fellow pilgrims. A group of four Irish and four Canadians met early on their trip, and bonded quickly, so this group of eight has been travelling together for the last couple of weeks. They welcomed us into their group, and another couple of Irish linked in with a group of six Spanish who were there. The evening meal was exceptional, with local delicacies, lovely fresh vegetables, a variety of lovely tapas, and pork tenderloin that someone commented, must have been massaged every day of it's life (Geoff decided to eat the last piece, and his utensils had been removed, but he was able to cut it with a spoon). After dessert (cremee caramel for those who would like to know) the liqueurs came out...then the singing began ... one woman in particular could have been a professional. The Spanish put on a dancing demonstration, and contributed a few songs of their own. The pressure was on the Canadians now to DO SOMETHING...we all agreed spontaneous singing isn't in our comfort zone...so Geoff gave a speech, and I contributed my poem...and we left that evening with 16 new friends.
Cramped municipal albergue, but it’s a bed for which I am grateful on a cold, rainy day. The situation is so ludicrous that you have to laugh.
The good thing about the rain is that it’s wonderful to finally get to put on dry clothes and eat something when you finally stop. 20 km or so from Burgos, with a long detour which added something--had to. I need to make sure my pack straps are adjusted properly--the left strap was too long and my left shoulder paid a price until I figured it out. There’s something to be grateful for. Also the bocadillos waiting for dinner, the companionship on the road, the time to think about everything and nothing, the bed, the lunch, I’m starting to feel grateful for everything, which is a wonderful change from how I am at home.
The meseta is, as I had imagined, much like home, with eroded clay hills framing the valley, wheat or barley fields, all harvested now. Spilled grain on the path, as if next year the camino will be a long green then golden stripe guiding pilgrims west.
As Ken points out, Hornillos had a bad reputation with pilgrims in 2013 as the accommodation was so poor. Happily there are many more beds here now with 3 albergues and a new restaurant servicing the massive pilgrim community that passes by here each year. Well, not this year. Hopefully they all survive without revenue this season.
It was this reputation that made me look at other alternatives before leaving home in 2013. We stayed at Casa Rural El Molino del Camino that I'd read about. Many of the local farms house pilgrims given the inadequate lodging in town. We were picked up at a bar in town by the owner of the casa and we experienced one of the most memorable evenings we've ever had on any of our distance walks.
The farm house was huge with multiple additions, very thick walls and it oozed calmness.
The perfect place to dry out after a storm.
Turns out that this is where much of the movie The Way was filmed in 2010 as Emillo Estivan's son married the owner's daughter. Martin Sheen and the cast stayed here for many weeks during the shooting of the film and they walked up and down the fields in back of the farm.
The grandparents are in the movie as well. The grandfather.
The huge family wedding was hosted here and we were shown the wedding alblum to boot!
Dinner that night was something special. The Irish, Spanish and Canadians were all there.
The food was outstanding and the wine was pretty good too! Once the drinks, food and rooms were all added up, it turned out that it was surprisingly inexpensive, but clearly it's not targeted at the student pilgrims. I'd actually learned about it from a woman I met online on a camino forum named Margaret who had walked the camino late fall 7 times and always stayed here. Good recommendation!
Black pudding that were part of our appies. Very good!
Dessert was followed by that magnificent green herb infused liqueur that north central Spain is so well known for.
If you stay here be warned, the house rule is that you have to perform. The Irish sang beautifully, as usual. The most beautiful song files were too large to upload. A shame because one of the women had a strikingly beautiful voice.
The Spanish sang, and danced.
When it came to the 6 Canadians turn to perform none of us knew a suitable song to sing. An old rugby song wan't going to work. It's not really a part of our culture to sing historic ballads in the bar. So while I stood and thanked the table and our hosts for a lovely evening, Annemarie did what Annemarie does. She wrote a beautiful poem, but the video file was too large to download. So here's the written version. Keep in mind that she wrote this on the fly. I was very proud of her!
It just gets better
As each day passes on this trail
I wonder what memory will prevail
There are so many that have already developed
Of people met, places visited,
And each day we say it can't get better than this
Another experience arises that can't be missed
My recordings to date have been prolific
I have intentionally skipped over the experiences more horrific
But today, folks, today is beyond compare
The experiences of this day are truly rare
We started walking in a nasty squall
All of us on our deepest resources had to call
But we all knew there was a special place waiting for us
Even when at times today all we wanted to do was cuss
And then we found ourselves here
Meeting each other over a beer
We all knew we had landed someplace incredible
We drank it in, hardly believing it to be credible
As we explored our surroundings we learned this was a place of some notoriety
It has a strong link to a family with some celebrity
We have shared a meal beyond compare,
And when I thought it couldn't get any better, the Irish and their amazing singing we're there
I truly cannot express adequately the specialness of this day
And I look forward to getting to know each of you better as we continue on our way
La Molina Casa Rural, Oct 1
This has been a long post, but some stages are really special with lots of wonderful memories and good experiences. Besides, it's presently raining hard and the wind is howling. How fitting!
Buen Camino
Addendum: I found this post from Annemarie in my blog today (Sunday) and wanted to add it;
Geoff set off on his own this morning for a solo 27 kms, and I sit with a cafe con leche waiting for my ride to Fromista where hopefully I will get my toe all fixed up, and be good to walk the rest of the way. Geoff had done quite a lovely post about our evening at La Molina outside of Hornillos, but through the magic of the ozone, it disappeared, so he asked that if I have time, I put in a few words about it... La Molinas is a Casa Rural out in the middle of nowhere, a sprawling farm property that can accommodate 18 guests. The place in itself is spectacular, but for us it was the people who were gathered there that night that made it extra special. We were driven there by Carmen, a woman with warm eyes, and a loving approach who drives like a maniac. Her parents, too, present as the ultimate hosts...fully opening their home to their guest, making us all feel like a large family for the day. After coming though a drenching rain, we were placed in front of a roaring fire with warm drinks and our fellow pilgrims. A group of four Irish and four Canadians met early on their trip, and bonded quickly, so this group of eight has been travelling together for the last couple of weeks. They welcomed us into their group, and another couple of Irish linked in with a group of six Spanish who were there. The evening meal was exceptional, with local delicacies, lovely fresh vegetables, a variety of lovely tapas, and pork tenderloin that someone commented, must have been massaged every day of it's life (Geoff decided to eat the last piece, and his utensils had been removed, but he was able to cut it with a spoon). After dessert (cremee caramel for those who would like to know) the liqueurs came out...then the singing began ... one woman in particular could have been a professional. The Spanish put on a dancing demonstration, and contributed a few songs of their own. The pressure was on the Canadians now to DO SOMETHING...we all agreed spontaneous singing isn't in our comfort zone...so Geoff gave a speech, and I contributed my poem...and we left that evening with 16 new friends.
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