After the storm last night we weren't expecting to be walking in anything but rain this morning. The power had been out in the night, so it must have been some blow. I checked my veggie patch and it survived nicely. A bit of a relief as I planted just a few of the more sensitive plants late yesterday, cucumbers particularly. I'm waiting to see how they do before putting out the rest. One step at a time as I've been nurturing them for weeks and there's no need to lose them now.
With a bit of blue sky and the surprising sun we set out on a warmer morning than was predicted. As you can see there was still cloud around early on, but I'll take it!
We have lots of wildlife around, but I think I'm spotting more than usual while on these early morning walks. I'm sure that by noon most of it would already be in hiding as more people emerge for their covid-exercise period, which is about the time we try to finish our longer walks. This fella was just warming his bones.
The trails were damp, but not muddy which was a surprise. Nice to walk on good trails with my light Solomon trail shoes which are well past their best before date. I'm working towards wearing them out on our shorter walking days, keeping my somewhat better Solomon trail shoes, complete with orthotics, for the longer stages. Old foot injuries long healed, I really don't need the orthotics any more, but I don't like the industrial shoe inserts, and haven't used them since walking the Le Puy in 2015. It's good to have some decent made for my feet liners when walking distance day after day and I will continue to use orthotics during those excursions. For now I'm just working on using up some already well used foot wear before I finally commit them to the deep!
We touched on the sea shore for just a few minutes today. Annemarie had to be home in decent time today for a call and a few other chores. A definite improvement in the weather, though we are told that there is more rain ahead.
We passed by one of my favourite trees. The bottom of this Maple has swollen so much that it looks fit to burst. It's slowly grown fatter each year for as long as I can remember. One day when the tree finally dies I figure that if they harvest it correctly that they will be able to sell the burl trunk for several thousand dollars.
This young deer wasn't too concerned about us, just kept watch from it's flowered fortress.
Then the skies cleared for a time with an ice crystal halo encircling the sun. Definitely a weather change coming.
Last night we enjoyed our weekly gathering of the group, less Sarah who was unfortunately not available. We all missed your smiling face! Some good stories and memories exchanged. Ken's again been walking in some quite cool weather (see his down jacket) and Neil and Sarah have experienced the fall cooling downunder as well. Ken's beard is becoming somewhat epic. Hopefully this pandemic won't go on for too long or we'll just be seeing a snowman!
On the camino, this was an important day for me back in 2013. I'd been looking forward to walking a significant stretch of the Roman road that runs in parts along here. At the end of this stage I was moved to write a letter to my Grade 6 history teacher, Mr. Allen who had long since passed from this earth. I want to post it again because without it, this is simply another pretty flat stage with not a whole lot else going for it!! Kidding...a little, but not too much; )
Dear Mr. Allen,
As you know, each trip I take includes a letter to you or a reference in my journal to thank you for providing me with the inspiration to travel and visit many of the wonders and cultural homelands from the ancient world.
First, and because it was the first, there were the special wonders of Greece...the Pantheon, Delphi and beautifully situated Delos. Then it was on to the wonders of Rome with numerous visits to sites throughout Italy and southern France and even a few in the UK during earlier visits. Onwards from there to the marvels of Ancient Egypt with its pyramids, Cataracts and riverside kingdoms along the Blue Nile. From there you took me on several occasions into the far reaches of Turkey, through the Greek & Persian Empires, into upper Mesopotamia and finally through the Secuk homelands.
We have travelled far together throughout the Byzantine Empire and have somehow also managed to fit in the Moors of present day Spain & Morocco along the way plus a visit to the Roman city of Italica in Iberia.
Well, today I have finally walked that long waited for piece of Roman road...only a small 24 km section, but it was enough...almost enough...the Appian Way from Roma to Brindisi still beckons, but it gets ever closer.
I'm not sure if you fully appreciate or even know the influence that you have had on my life, but the impact of your teaching has clearly had a profound impact. When you said to me, "You cannot even comprehend the magnitude of a million years of humanoid history, let alone the past 10,000 years.", I listened and I wondered. I have spent the last 46 years of my life trying to understand and to comprehend your message. I will endeavour to continue to learn even more when my present work obligations come to an end.
You were there with me today as I walked the Roman Road alone...far, far ahead of those who walk with me.
With gratitude and appreciation. In memory of Mr. Allen, Grade 6 History teacher, 1967, Trafalgar School, Vancouver
Almost 7 years have passed since I wrote that letter and during that time I've continued to travel far and wide. Much of that travel by foot, once I'm off the airplane! From time to time I've considered Mr. Allen's teachings, always striving to learn something useful about the places before I visit, and with respect to the local population, I've also attempted to add some basic language skills. My flight wings are trimmed for the moment, but I do hope to get back out there to continue walking and exploring. In fact, I have finally located the walking path for the Appian Way, a much less travelled walking route, Roma to Brindisi and beyond. I'm learning Italian and encouraging a nugget of a plan begin to find its way. We shall see.
Setting out early that morning, I was pretty excited.
I wasn't telling stories when I said this country is flat!
Good for shadow shots though.
It was novel in 2013 and I enjoyed walking across the Meseta, but I think it was at times a bit overwhelming in 2018. I prefer the climbs and descents, always wondering what the next corner will reveal. Here, there are sometimes surprises, but most often many of them are evident well ahead.
Funny story. Annemarie heeded natures call and visited some of the few bushes around and when a train flew past those bushes she was a little surprised. As I recall, she moved along pretty quickly!
Still smiling after the train had passed by.
A description about how the road was built.
As was often the case I was lost in the moment and moving ahead.
Then there was the ever so slight disappointment of finding the preserved sections of the Calzada Romana, fenced in. I understood that it was necessary to preserve the ancient roads, but it would have been nice. Actually having now walked on many sections of Roman roads in Sicily, Spain, Portugal and France I can relate that it's not always very easy or helpful. Often badly tilted and rutted stones can make walking a challenge and nearly impossible if they are wet or frosty.
Not Roman.
More original road.
Mansilla in the distance. I remember being a bit surprised when I saw just how much of an elevation drop there was. Sometimes you can climb quite high without really appreciating just how high when the slope is stretched out over many kilometres.
Mansilla.
Stepping into the past. These gates are often centuries old, and this one looks like it has been added to over time.
Peregrinos are usually feeling this way at the end of a long stage!
Good support for the peregrinos here.
Neil and Sarah washing away a bit of the grit from the Roman road. Sarah with plasters on both heals. She had loads of company.
As I recall, this was a decent little town.
The six of us gathered for refreshments at the end of the stage. We shared some of the reasons that we'd each come on this walk and what called us there. I think it was a special moment for each of us. I know it was for me. We spoke about the process of learning to let go while walking, and Neil in response began to tear the 'used' pages out of his guide book, and almost symbolically they scattered on the wind all over the small alcove we were occupying. I think in our own ways we were each learning lessons while we walk the Camino. I've learned many things over many distance walks and one that's stuck has been the lesson of simplicity in life. Carrying and generally using just the same few things in your small backpack for weeks on end has provided a real lesson on the value of simplicity. After each of my 8 long distance walks I've returned home and reduced my stuff further. There's still more stuff to pass on, so clearly I have more walking to do!!
Based on the well known and often repeated phrase The Camino provides. We made a small adjustment and coined, the camino gives you what you need, not necessarily what you want. We all agreed, a significant difference. I took this photo of Neil just before he started to tear out the pages. I wish I'd taken a photo of the table to post here, but I can still remember where each person sat at the table.
Ken's journal;
Mansilla de las Mulas.
I’m thankful for the beautiful weather, the bed, the conversation with Geoff and Annemarie and Neil and Sarah. My left knee is hurting a little so a rest day in León will make sense. I will try to book something--this place has internet so I should be able to. My back could use a day away from the pack as well.
The next day we all found our way into Leon where we all took a rest day. The 6 of us never sat together again on the Way, but we have obviously all stayed in close contact. Neil and Sarah were pressed for time and stayed about one stage ahead of us, Marianne left for home from Leon, but fortunately Ken caught up to us a few days after Leon and we essentially stayed together all the rest of the way to Santiago. Also in Leon Rob joined me in 2016 to walk from there to Santiago along the Camino Invierno, so perhaps I have a few photos from that walk to share, at least until we turned off the Frances in Ponferrada. But all that's on down the road a ways.
Buen Camino!
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