Wednesday, August 19, 2015

Stage 2: Saint Privat d'Allier to Saugues: 19kms, fog & sun, 20, 5 hours with lunch!

Finding the Rhythm!

It's amazing the difference a little sleep can make! I was in a small room with two French ladies last night, and once they stopped talking and giggling (they were actually very nice roommates) I was able to finish reading and finally had my first decent sleep since arriving. What a difference! A good thing too, because today was a short, but solid descending and climbing day. 

First however, your sunrise...c'est bon! A very foggy beginning as we were high in the clouds this morning, but so beautiful. It stayed this way all the way down Mont du Deves to Monistrol far below.
I must say that walking on the Le Puy is a much more civilized walk that the Plata was. I mean, the gites offer you an option of demi-pension which includes your bed, a good evening communal meal and breakfast in the morning. All for a fairly reasonable price of about $45-50. Add in a few more dollars and one can walk here for about $55-60 per day. More expensive than Spain for sure, but given this is France, pretty good value. Any way, the main difference to far is that no. One gets up at 4:30! Where are all the German walkers? There is no sense getting up too early because breakfast isn't even ready until around 7:30. So one tends to linger. I was first to breakfast soon joined by others and out the door as others were finding there way in. No real hurry, but there is the sunrise to witness, and for me the most special time of the walking day. Here's a little of what I saw as I slipped my way down the mountain (heavy rain last night).
A brief stop on the way down to see this beautiful little church and the nearby watch tower that would have allowed the inhabitants to see for miles! The church has been here for centuries welcoming pilgrims as they passed by. Another small harbour on the Way. I mean the sun popped out and everything:-)

On down and down...I was to eventually discover that I would have to climb to that far ridge, but at this point the low fog obscured what was to come...sometimes a good thing. 
Back into the cloud...
However, along the way a ray of sunshine! Rob, I've found you your Westie! Complete with flowers on the dash. It has your name all over it;-)
Eventually I found my way down and picked up with Jacque from Quebec City for a time (we ended up bunking beside each other for tonight)...we didn't discuss the coming Federal election...I know you were probably wondering. Actually he did say that he's as happy as I am to miss all the boring rhetoric over the coming weeks...enough said.

At the bottom we had to cross this bridge...quickly!
And into town.
We separated here, he to delay the inevitable climb with coffee and me to continue on in the warm sun...but which way to go?
I found the climb very quickly. Actually a blessing in disguise as I found my pace on the way up and was finally able to clear the last of the jet lag. A lovely walk up, but at this point a vertical drop beside me, so I didn't linger long!
Some very interesting crosses on this route.
I finally found the top, more or less. A few false summits, but it was lovely with small hill towns in the distance and flocks of sheep on the trail.

I decided to stop for lunch before reaching town and decided to try a little place in Rognac which turned out to be a family home where they prepared me a very good fromage pate sandwich. Locally produced and very good!
Then it was a pleasant walk down into town. 

My laundry is done and hanging in the sun, I'm all cleaned up and in my best apres walking clothes and sitting in the bar where I've found some wifi. Tomorrow I've decided to test myself a little more with a 30+ stage followed by a short 15 km day.

Last thing. Late yesterday afternoon as I was hanging out in the bar a young family with 5 small children walked in. The oldest maybe 8 and the youngest riding in a pack on Dad's back. The whole bar stood and clapped as they arrived...so cool. I can't imagine.
They each had a drink delivered and the family all toasted their walk. These are tough kids...two beers?
I don't seem to have wifi at my gite tonight, but maybe there was a router problem?
Bon Chemin!

2 comments:

  1. Hey Geoff

    Neil's been away for a couple of days, so we've just caught up on your last three posts. Amazing! Fabuleux!! Splendide!!! Thanks so much for sharing this wonderful journey with us. Needless to say, we're bursting (from the comfort of our doona clad bed) to be on the road with you and enjoying that beautiful landscape. Your photos of Le Puy took me (Sarah) back so immediately to that lovely little town, and Mum is also so delighted to hear of it again. Neil's just so impressed with the way you handled that cow - show 'em whose boss, that's the thing. No fear and that don't mess with me pelerin stance. I could see her shaking, even in the still!!! And just as fearless on the bridge - you d'man! We love hearing about French food - can almost taste those fromage and pate baguettes. And it looks like such a stunning route - we're so looking forward to following your way. Hope that this longer 30 km day has gone well. Still foggy and wintry here, so we can relate to your misty mornings - but hope the sun has shone today. Our warm greetings to Annemarie if she's reading this back home, and to Ken and all our other pilgrim friends met and not yet met!!

    Bon chemin

    Sarah and Neil

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  2. Hi Sarah, hi Neil, hi Geoff! Great post. I especially like the photo of the pub patio when you finished for the day. I would've thought your best après walking clothes were your only après walking clothes!

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