Saturday, August 22, 2015

Stage 5: Aumont-Aubrac to Nasbinals, 27kms, 5 hours, sunny, 25 (1)

On the Plateau!

Yesterday I felt badly that I'd missed the sunrise, so today I was up early and walking before the sun popped up. After all there was no reason to stay in bed given that I fought with it all night. I think it was the worst bed I've ever seen on my walks and sagged and tilted so badly that I took the quilt they gave me and stuffed it underneath in the wee hours to try and make it a bit level. So a couple of hours of rest last night. I'll do my best with this entry. The sunrise...
Last night was memorable as we all gathered for an amazing meal. It was the specialty of the area and I'll let the pictures do the talking. Dad, potatoes and young cheese, garlic, nutmeg and some other stuff! By the way, breakfast this morning, the jam was apricot and rhubarb...surprisingly good!

It was simply amazing food...wish the bed had been 10% as good! Here is the sunset.
So know we should be all square with a sunrise and a sunset!

Today began early with a walk across the usual farm country and through a few nice little villages.
There was a beautiful little church early on called the Chapelle de Bastide. Just sitting in the middle of an intersection?
As the morning slipped by there was the usual climbing through some scrub land with pine trees on either side. 
I noticed the local animals doing some odd things, but I figured it must be the water, so I'd best buy bottled water tonight!
I didn't stop to enquire what this horse was about...he was pretty big!
The scrub came to a pretty abrupt end as I reached around 4,100' and I found myself crossing a beautiful stretch of land, basically a plateau. Fortunately there was a nice breeze to help keep me cool as there was no shade. John, I think this was the area you told me about when I saw you at the rec centre a few days before I departed?

It was pretty nice and I felt free to simply walk. There were a few other walkers, but I was mostly to myself. Have connected with a nice couple from Bled, Slovenia where Annemarie and I had a memorable walk a few years ago. They are walking to St. John Pied de Port, so we will likely cross paths a number of times.
It's busy out here so funny to have space. Most of the gites are full early and booked ahead which adds a bit of stress if you let it. I have a place for tonight and tomorrow, but after that, who knows where I'll be or sleep. I'll see what help I can get with this tomorrow night when I reconnect with Jacque who of course has the language skills.
There are still a few flowers out here and these are for Erin. She knows why:-)
More climbing along the way. Always more climbing.
This ancient volcanic plain is huge and well weathered. If you look around you can see the evidence from its violent past. The horizon is littered with the reminents of old cones and lava flows, fortunately all dormant now.
From time to time the French show their humour. What is this doing out here? Taxi!!
 A lovely day...
Neil and Sarah, your first bridge on this travel. Enjoy! There is a cross in the middle if you expand it, generally a bit unusual. 
I can commiserate with this horse as sometimes I feel a bit alone out here with all these French types and the numerous Québécois on the trail. But it's ok. Annemarie will be here soon enough:-)
I've been walking at the 3,600-4,200' level, but tomorrow I drop down considerably. Over the last 25 kms I will drop elevation from 4,700' all the way down to under 1,300'. Of course that means I'll have to climb first for about 8kms:-(

It will be a long day tomorrow and there is a storm warning posted, so should be a fun old day! I have my gaiters and poncho and some news paper to dry my boots. So I should be ok. I've made a booking 17kms out at Saint Chely if the weather is terrible, but if I can get low enough then I'll cancel it and walk on. One of those things you have to sort out at the time. Once your wet...well. It will be a cool 14 tomorrow where I am now, but no doubt warmer lower down the mountains as I come off the plateau. I'm glad I crossed today as it's very exposed up here. My town for tonight.
I was first in today and this has its rewards. First into a nice clean shower and first pick of the beds. I made sure that I had a really good bed! A little catching up tonight I think. I believe my meals come with my booking, but a nice French lady made the call for me and I'm not sure if I have demi-pension. As usual all will come clear. 

Hi to all. Jen, I hope you are out there and following. I was wondering about you today.

Bon Chemin!

3 comments:

  1. Lovely photographs again! Thanks for bringing us along on your walk!

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  2. Hi Geoff

    We loved the views of the high plateau. I will be driving in similar country today as I head up to the Snowy Mountains to visit family - I love it! Thanks for including that photo of the bridge too - what a beautiful setting. It sounds like the juxtaposition of more people in the gites and less traffic on the trail is ideal - allowing personal space in the day and company at night. We hope tonight's dinner is as magnificent as last night's but that the mattress is a whole lot better.

    We're back reading A Philosophy of Walking by Frederic Gros (Ken have you got on to this yet?) so we'll leave you with a quote to ponder as you pace along tomorrow: 'When you really walk, farewell follows farewell all day long. You can never be quite sure of ever setting foot in a place again. This condition of departure adds intensity to the gaze.'

    Bon chemin

    Neil and Sarah

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  3. Funny you mention Frederic Gros, Neil and Sarah--I'm taking my copy up to the lake to read this week!

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