Stage 9: Kainan - Minshuku Tokumasu (middle of nowhere), 33 kms, Rain and More Rain, 18

The Skies Open, The Rains Fall

 

Yes, we are pretty much in the middle of nowhere on the coast as a storm blows through. Last night we stayed in a place that was about on par with a  place we overnighted in Brisbane a couple of years ago (we laugh about it now). We usually take the attitude that we can handle most places, if just for one night, but the place in Brisbane was pretty bad, and we think we found another in perhaps the same grundge hotel chain last night. That said, the owner was very nice and besides, there was literally no where else to stay. We went to bed hearing rain, and woke up hearing even more. Unfortunately, Annemarie is a bit under the weather today so we looked out the window at the sky, discussed how she was feeling, put two and two together and decided to call this a 'Rain Day'. 

We had been told by David Moreton that Henro often skip this section...the whole 77 kilometres. I've always kind of gone on these long walking journeys to, well, to walk. I hadn't taken any public transport along the way (except to get to a hospital once) until catching a city bus about 8 kms into Porto with Neil and Sarah last September. Perhaps I'm growing a little bit when I can accept missing a bit of walking? With so many kilometres under my feet I have to ask myself, "Does it really matter if I miss a just few kilometres?".  The answer for some is a resounding "yes", and of course I respect this position as it's essntially been my own. However, now well into my 5th long Camino, I think I have perhaps earned the privilege to exercise this option. Besides, who else on the planet really cares:)  My role is to simply keep Annemarie happy on these walks. Right Peter?

After a surprisingly good breakfast, given the accommodation, we walked over to the train station and took the train to the end of the line, a whole 9 kilometres. It was of course all decorated in cherry blossoms and if I can manage to post a few pictures then there it will be.

 

While we waited for the bus to arrive at the village train station, (tiny, tiny, this not being Tokyo) I walked through the rain, past the mountains of croaking frogs in the rice paddies, and into town to find a post office. A weekend is coming. Money is required, and only 7-11 and post offices accept foreign debt cards in the ATM's. Success! Pockets again full of yen I find a small little shop that wasn't really open. You know, the kind of place you can walk past a thousand times in Japan and not even realize it's a bit of a store. I call through the door "good morning", but no answer. I step into the shop and low and behold there are bandaids! I see slippers neatly side by side at the door into the house beyond and again called out ohayō gozaimasu. To my delight a tiny older lady calls back and walks out all smiles. We exchanged the usual courtesies and then get down to the business of determining what bandaids are suitable for blisters on feet. There were all different types. We used sign language, smiles and hai and iie to point to various parts of foot anatomy and come to some well informed decisions. Then selections made and purchases complete we say our very formal goodbyes accompanied by at least three bows and off I go feeling pretty good that I'd located some bandaids for Annemarie. I also find some chocolate and raisins in another store because we are staying tonight in the middle of nowhere. So, jackpot!

 

 

Back at the station other Henro start to walk in. Also looking for the bus. Bus arrives. Bus fills up with Henro. Hilarious! We chug along down the coast a little way and see a couple of brave souls walking on. The big trucks are hitting the huge puddles and water is flying onto the road sides. We are dry, but I feel guilty. I should be walking. No matter how I've justified it in my own head, I know I should be walking. It's in large part why I'm here, following my passions. I walk up to the bus driver thinking that we must have gone about 12 kmilmetres and tell him that we want to get off at Sakihama. 30 seconds later, we're there and it's pouring. We can't arrive at our minshuku on down the highway until early afternoon. We can see on our map that there's a restaurant called Lucky and we hope to stop there for lunch and wait. I ask directions at a convenience store and it turns out we are heading in the right direction. We find the place and go in with water just pouring off us. No concerns from the owner and she asks us in Japanese if we want something to eat, though we don't know this is what she's asking. Somehow we end up with a nice egg sandwich and salad. After our meal we Skype with Caitlin and answer a few emails. Then inevitably we have to head for the door. It's pouring and a high wind has come up. Great. Annemarie has tossed her poncho because it's finally died and she neglected to replace it before we departed home. It happens. So we wrap my rain jacket around her waist to cover her to her knees and she wears her own rain coat. 

 

 

 

We walk along the highway trying almost to the point of useless to pass the big puddles when a big truck or bus isn't barreling down the highway. Eventually we climb up on a wave breakwall to try and get above the traffic, but now we have to deal with the wind blowing the rain in off the Pacific. Endless fun.

 

We eventually arrive at our minshuku and are greeted very warmly. They bring us hot coffee...Annemarie drinks both, and a nice sliced apple as osettai. We are shown to our Japanese style room. Very simple, very welcome. 

 

Now bathed and feeling better we are sorting out our plan for tomorrow and the next couple of days. The coast from here on looks amazing. To give Annemarie an extra recovery day we will stay here tomorrow and wait out what will be a very heavy rain day. We have the time. Our lovely hostess has told us that she will cancel our other reservation tomorrow night and try to book us into Temple 25 the following day. Excellent!

Simon has just arrived and the young Japanese fellow who was having knee trouble a couple of days ago has also arrived. They are both young! I should have found this lifestyle for myself in my 20's! History now:) Seems I can't post photos here. Too bad. I have only a few, but they sort of capture the fun today. 

Sashimi (raw fish) for dinner tonight!

We can now look across the ocean towards home. What an odd feeling. Swim over to see Seth, then up the coast to home:)

PS. Slowly, loading one photo at a time:)  

Our host has now booked our next three nights (walking days) in places she knows well that are very good with stage distances of 26, 22 and 24 kms which will suit Annemarie better. We will stay here tomorrow and do some writing, reading and I have the whole Fawlty Towers series on my iPad thanks to Bob. Thanks Bob!!