Stage 4: Temple 12 - 16, 31kms, Gorgeous Sun, 18-20

An Excellent Day!

I'm sitting here in Tokishima after a very long, satisfying day with my favourite post walk snack...a large ice cold beer and some potato chips! It's been a day with a little bit of everything. Our new connection David Morton suggested that after we finish stage 4 at T16 that we catch the train for the short ride into Tokishima Station as many Henro apparently do for a night in a bed and a bit of relaxation. So we did! Sleeping and sitting as they call it, "Japanese style" takes a bit of getting use to with a thin mat in the floor, but nice thick comforters which keep you toasty warm. A western bed for one night will be a good break for these two Henro! We've been busy since arriving here at around 5pm; changed our walking plans and booked different places for the next few nights (new walking strategy), found and purchased M&Ms, laundry underway, train back sorted out, showered and cleaned up. As we wait for the laundry to dry I can get a bit of this started and then we will head out for dinner at a place we know.

The day began early again, but we were already awake at 5. Another vegetarian meal for breakfast as meat is not served in Buddhist temples. Was very good Rob, and here is dinner last night. I'm pretty sure the beer qualifies! The whole experience at the temple was unique for us and a very good experience.

 

We started off in beautiful, amazing full sun! Not a cloud. It was chilly and we bundled up a bit, but as we steeply descended off the mountain the air picked up a warm spring time feel. A few photos as we went down. You will see blossoms today as they are showing their colour with the warm day.

 

 

We had one more beautiful, excellent climb up through a cole before the final descent out of the mountains really picked up steam, but nothing like yesterday.

 

A small shrine at the top.

 

Then the descent that went on for the next few hours.

 

We found osettai left out in a hut! A real treat.

 

And of course the blossoms were better and better the lower we went.

 

At one point we passed through a small mountain village and they had put these large life size figures throughout the village. 

 

This one shows a local providing osettai to a faltering Henro...so exact in detail and very funny:). Compete with zip off pants!

 

Speaking of osettai, we received several acts of kindness. At one point a woman stopped her car on the road, turned on her flashers and waited until we walked up and then presented us with some really good cookies. Yum! The earlier Orange and the cookies came at very well timed moments when we were getting hungry. Later we were given another lovely looking orange and a young woman stopped us and gave us each a very nice cloth bag with all sorts of delights inside...feels a little like Halloween! We are also saving these treats for tomorrow. So many caring people here, their thoughts now joined with our journey. A nice community feeling.

I find when walking that I have to remind myself to always look back to where I've come from. I found this view and our temple was located high on the distant mountain, but what really caught my eye was the sole cherry tree in full colour.  

Once we were lower into the valley we began to follow the Naka River. Very nice with plenty of evidence suggesting that when it floods, it floods with high velocity and volumes. But today in the dry season it was pretty passive.

 

 

 

After 22 kms and about 5 hours of ups and downs we stopped for lunch at a 7-11 and we were so hungry! The food from these stores here is very good and hot. We found a place to sit and filled up! 

And yes, there were temples. We have gotten aquatinted with a fellow from Korea and walked off and on with him later in the day. We seemed to visit the four temples together, us and hundreds of bus tour Henro who clogged up the temples, this being Sunday. However the Pilgrim Oath says I'm not allowed to complain, so I typically found a seat somewhere on the grounds and watched it all happen. At one temple there was so much tour bus incense that it caught fire! I could have roasted a marshmallow if I'd had one:) 

At another temple we watched a ceremony outside.

 

And the musicians thought it was pretty cool that I was taking their picture.

 

Laundry is done and it's late, so I'll finish this after dinner. Ok, at dinner while we wait.a couple more pictures cause lots still to do tonight.

 

 

And lastly a cool, weird truck.

 

Tomorrow we train back to near T17 and begin again. A nice warm day tomorrow and should be over 20 on the trail. Very nice! A long day planned using a route that will largely help us to avoid the urban parts of Tokishima. We will finish the long loop around the city after Stage 5 and find our way to the ocean in the following couple of days and begin our southward walk down the coast. Looking forward to that. Hope our new plan works ok?! Both a bit tired, but having loads of fun and enjoying meeting all sorts of folks along the way.