Stage 15: Kochi T33 - Tosa T36, 33 kms, Sun & A Little Heat, 27, Perfect!

Reflections

Well, I'm on my own now which always leads to different kinds of reflections on these wanderings. There are many different types of reflection, and for sure today I was thinking about Annemarie who I left behind quite early this morning as I caught a bus back out to T33 to begin the day. I know she wanted to come along, and I love her for that, but it was about 8 kms longer than planned. So a very good decision AB, your feet will thank you. Though as you read this post you may have second thoughts, but I can't do anything about those except to again say, good decision. I reflected on the many great experiences we've shared these past 4 weeks and how fortunate I am that Annemarie enjoys these walks and our travels. She is very strong both physically and mentally and she can handle the pain and the stress of the road better than most....we often laugh about how, "this isn't a vacation". 

I also reflected on what's ahead for me and wondered what the next month will reveal. Of course as an experience, but also from a spiritual perspective. I'm pretty well open to anything on these walks, and it will be interesting to see what flies in and settles in this diminishing brain of mine:)  There are so many wonderful experiences just around each corner when one takes the time to slow travel in this manner and learns how to trust, to leave oneself open to whatever happens. Take the lady today who ran after me when my mind was a million miles away as I passed her house. She had a small package of origami that she'd made to give to me as osettai. I was so startled that I forgot to give her one of my white slips or to ask to take a photo of her. A small gift that was actually huge in my mind. Or the older gentleman who was pulling out of the grocery store parking lot and was blocking the sidewalk. Initially I wondered why he was just sitting in my way, but then he saw me and backed up. I bowed my appreciation, and as I passed he got out of his car and called to me. He opened the back door of his car and brought out two packages from his groceries. "Osettai" he said with a bow as he presented me with his gifts and again bowed, returned to his car and drove away. I can tell you it was a strangely emotional moment. He had just presented me with about a half kilo of his favourite hard candies and biscuits. So much for my lighter pack! I have being sharing my osettai fortune with everyone I meet today. I received a lot of smiles and thank yous, but it was probably a little self serving:)

Then there are the visual reflections. My eyes continually search for them, particularly in the early morning before the wind blows up.

 

 

 

 

I arrived at T34, Tanemaji, a place where people come to pray for safe childbirth. It's nice enough and the reflection on the water was very nice (photo above), but I found this chicken across the road more photographic. I'm obviously having a strange start to my day. 

 

Having started a bit later with a bus ride and all, I was behind the core Henro group. However, I soon caught them, said good morning to each as I passed by and moved on in search of T35. The fellow at the rear had a very interesting sedge hat. 

 

This search took me over several high bridges, along rivers and through some very back street experiences. The roads in the area have been changed around and the route signs were only the old wood ones all in Japanese. I really had to scramble to find my way including flagging down a car to get directions. I could eventually see the temple on the hill, but getting there through rice paddies and the like can be quite a challenge! 

 

The temple, Kiyotakiji, was a ways up the hill, but as usual it was the pitch in the trail bed that was exhausting. Then there are the million stairs to the top. Now this was a very special temple. I liked it very much and took some time here to again reflect and to take in the moment. 

 

 

The views back to where I'd walked were pretty good too.

 

Then it was back down and through the maze, find a bite of lunch on the run and then begin the long haul to T36, Shōryūji. It was warming up nicely as I went along today. My thermometer peaked and I was pretty pleased. For me, a perfect walking temperature. Everything nice and warm and loose. I caught up to my old friend 78 (his age, can't pronounce his name) and I saw he and another Henro heading into the tunnel. Hey, I thought that we are supposed to climb over the hill above the tunnel? Then I thought, smart Henro and headed after them into the tunnel, almost 1 kilometre long! 

 

 

Out the other side and in to Tosa City.  Yup, I have to walk over another bridge. For a westerner, the railings seem very low, particularly if you don't happen to be a big fan of heights!

 

 

And then of course you survive and once again you've managed not to do something stupid like fall off. The good thing is that there's a nice beach ahead.

 

Then off the main road and heading towards T36, Shōryūji. You have to use your imagination a bit here because when Kūkai was studying in China, just before his return to Japan he apparently threw avajra (a five prongritual object) towards the east and later found it here, where he built this temple. That's quite a throw! All that aside, this was one of my favourite temple experiences. I was the only one there for about 15 minutes. After climbing what I think were 168 stairs, remember this is the end of the walking day, I found a very peaceful setting. Something special. 

 

 

 

I lingered until my two friends arrived and then I headed back down. I did make a connection with a young Buddhist priest who had good English and we chatted for a time. This is the top of his walking stick. 

Now this is the part where I could get in real trouble with Annemarie. I read about this place to stay up a steep hill from the temple. So I made a reservation. A bit more pricy than the usual, and this is what I found when I arrived.

 

Yes, I've jumped to Santorini, Greece! Not sure how that happened? 

 

But I appear to be there! Always loved Santorini from my first visit there in 1975, so felt right at home! This is the view from my room.

 

My room...

 

And I can't bear to show you dinner! I ate with my young Buddhist friend and we spoke of many things. He has told me that he will take me with him tomorrow and will show me some interesting things which I'll save for tomorrows post. I'm delighted because this is part of the reason for my walk, to better understand. The opportunity to speak English with someone who has a decent knowledge is most fortuitous. 

A long day planned, but at the end of it I'll meet Annemarie for the night. So that will be wonderful. Ok, up to my humble digs and perhaps a Netflix movie? By the way, my new acquaintance. 

PS. Don't feel too badly for Annemarie. We fly to Greece for the month of September, and I'll finally be able to show her the islands including Santorini! And yes we will be walking a little on Crete!