Stage 3: Temple 11 - Temple 12, Just 13 kms, Cloud then Sun:), 2-9

Snow Laying On Cedar Boughs

An early morning. Up at 5:30 as our hosts advised us that breakfast was at 6. Now we understood her to tell us that breakfast started at 6, but I'm pretty sure that nothing was said about coming later than that. Meal times are pretty specific in small Japanese guesthouses. However, there were just 3 of us there trying to look mildly interested at 6, then 2 more arrived at 6:15...and then no one else. Hmmm? Oh well, we were out the door and on our way in the early morning light just grateful that it wasn't raining. Wet, but not raining! We passed through T11 and I took a picture of the cherry tree as promised, though the light wasn't the best.

 

It wasn't very reassuring to see this sign at the bottom of the first climb, but then in a way it was, help was near. Except we don't have a phone.

 

It didn't take very long for the trail to head upwards. 

 

It was steep, but then the first views made it almost worthwhile!

As the day passed I learned to hate these hands pointing the way, almost always upwards. By the time we completed the third summit I beginning to imagine a different hand signal. But that wouldn't be very Zen of me!

 

Then it got a bit steeper...

 

...but still the intrepid, but slightly naive Henro pressed onwards.  I stopped at this marker while waiting for Annemarie and I wondered how long this stone had sat here showing pilgrims the way? Centuries? 

Higher we climbed.

 

Sometime later I rounded a corner and found this.

 

Was not expecting this!  We continued to climb to the first peak, the lowest of the three, and the snow showed more as we gained elevation. Frankly it was stunning looking up above us at the peaks ahead. We finally started down again. While that sounded like a happy thing to be doing, we knew that it wouldn't last and there was a higher and steeper climb ahead. The cedar trees were outstanding to walk through and occasionally a cloud would drift in and change the look.

 

We descended to the trail huts constructed at the spring where ice cold water is available. 

 

We started the second climb and the temperature dropped most noticeably. We had already put on our marino buffs and light gloves and figured that as long as we kept moving we should stay warm enough with just a long sleeve t-shirt and our white hakui on. A pack on your back keeps everything there warm.

 

As we climbed closer to the summit the temperature dropped to about 1 degree (I have a temperature gage on my compass). 

 

There was about 3" of fresh snow from last night. A Japanese Henro who has walked before told me that we were very lucky to see snow up here as it's unusually late in the season. At first my thought was that we'd left this at home, but then I considered the novelty.  The bamboo was forced over by the weight of the snow.

 

We descended off the second mountain and as we went down the snow on the cedar boughs began to drop off in large clumps. Well the game of course became to not get nailed by a clump of snow! Lots of fun.

 

As we crossed the valley to start up again, the sun showed and warmed us. We passed though an orchard and began to climb for the third and last time.  

 

Quite suddenly we were at the top...or it felt that way to me. Annemarie thought that we should now be able to assume this position! Great idea!

 

 

Then we arrived at T12, our home for the night.

 

 

We'd arrived earlier than expected in under 5 hours and it was only just noon. We explained our situation to the folks who operate the place Nd they showed us a brazier where we could warm ourselves, dry our clothes and eat the lunch we'd carried. It was a wonderful feeling! He then eventually collected us and took us to our room.

 

Then while our hot bath was being readied we went out and completed the Process and had a look around. Very beautiful.

 

 

The view from our room.

 

We will have dinner and breakfast brought to our room. They put it on the table in the middle and you cover yourself with the blanket (picture a few back) which has a heating light underneath. All very nice. It will be below zero tonight, so the brazier in our room will run all night. There are paper thin sliding doors between the rooms...they don't lock and we can hear the couple next door right now snoozing. Interesting. No tour group here tonight and based on how cold the place is generally it's likely that they just opened today for the first time this season...April 1st. As such there is no Buddhist ceremony in the morning in the temple. The reason we came here. Oh well, there will be others and we don't have to get up before 5! Breakfast is at 6:20. A longer day tomorrow...about 31-32 kms. We will have a strategy session after I post this. It's been a great day! Everything is new and the hot bath was deep and felt so good! Hey, see if you can figure this one out...thankfully I have a map book to follow:)

 

Annemarie was definitely inspired today. Dinner in a few minutes and our first beer in three days! 

The climb at the beginning

The first climb often comes early in any pilgrimage 

Testing one's dedication, intention or courage

They are often beautiful and serene

The day's end destination a wonderful scene

They invariably have a surprise that only the one who takes the journey sees

Today we had ice showers and snowballs falling off the trees

The hiss of falling ice  and cheerful birdsong greeted us

Streams gurgling,  and the waterfall rush

Blossoms in the sun, shrines with a peaceful presence 

All of these were gentle hands pushing us up, making the climb less intense

Still the mud and slippery rocks required some care

The price to be paid for the snow laden beauty there

Kobo Diashi  standing tall to help us on our way

Giving us strength for the last climb of the day

A warm reception at the temple where we chose to stay

Sunshine at the mountaintop, what more is there to say