Stage 5: Temple 17 - 19, 30 kms, Sun, 22

Three Acts Of Kindness.

We took an early train back the four stations to Temple 16 and decided to stop first at T17 to pay respects before any bus tours dropped by. It was a good decision as the temple was very nice and it was a calmer way to start what would become a very long day. A local commuter! 

 

 

 

We then figured out a route to the nearest Kombini a 7-11 and put some calories in our stomachs and a bit of caffeine, and walked on.

 

Caitlin the heron are here to nest now too!

 

We took the quieter but steeper Jizo-goe Route to avoid more of the outlaying areas of Tokishima. Walking through cities is a grind and every traffic light feels like an eternity until it changes. The trails we walked were not really walker feiendly, but we managed. Coming down the other side and through the valleys we found some beautiful trees.

 

At this time of year the Japanese have special parties and picnic functions under the trees and this is the spot for one small community we passed through.

 

A shrine as we passed.

 

Almost all pavement walking today. So hard on the body. Did I ever mention about sticks and poles while crossing bridges? Well you have to carry these items as you cross because the belief is that Kōbō Daishi may be sleeping under the bridge and you don't want to wake him. I can assure you that we get no such respect in our accommodations!

 

This was a small shrine we saw along the roadside climbing up a hill. It reminded us of Kyoto.

 

At about 1:30 we saw another 7-11 and stopped for lunch. We should ask for a customer loyalty card there? It was all that we had seen food wise, and we both needed a break after too many hours on paved roads. Then finally, on to T18, over 20kms from the last temple. A short sharp climb and we were there. This statue of KD was quite big.

 

 

 

Then onwards to the next temple, T19. A very nice temple and our third experience without a tour bus, so appreciated it all the more.

 

 

 

Then it was on to where we are staying tonight in Katsuura at the foot of the steep climb to T20. Tomorrow is well known as a difficult day with two solid climbs up to the top and all the way back down and then repeated again. Should be wonderful...  I'll stop here. Lots to do this evening and dinner almost ready. The communal bath here was very hot and welcome after a second solid day. Cheers!

PS. I'm back. Just realized I forgot to explain the title! Long day. Three times today older men came along when they thought we needed help, and did just that. The first time was just after the decent off the hill and an older man, assuming we were lost because we'd stopped at a fork in the road with our map out, decided that we were indeed lost. So he went on in Japanese about which way we should go and then he walked with us to show us what he had decided. Fortunately we had already made the same decision, but it was his effort to help us that was great. The second fellow a short ways in made the same assumption and got off his bike and walked us almost one kilometre using local knowledge to get us where we needed to go. I gave him a white slip (you give in return for osettai) which seemed to really please him. He stood and watched us until we were out of sight to make sure we followed his directions. This is him. So far the only pick axe equipped bike we've seen here. Hard to say no to a fellow with one of these strapped to his bike!

 

The third act of kindness was provided by two gents in their car. There is some new signage on the route and it's designed to keep you off the busy No. 55 highway and isn't yet in the walking guide. Except either we missed as marker or they hadn't put in quite enough of them...we will never know. Any way, we were dead reckoning our way when they pulled off the road and waited until we walked up. Then one jumped out of the car and changed our direction. Fortunately we only had to back track about a half kilometre. A small variation in our day. These were all acts of kindness and form a part of the osettai. To fulfill our end of the bargain after giving them the white slips, we remembered their acts of support at the next temple. In this way they become a part of our journey, and they feel like they are too. One of the reasons there is so much local support for the Henro. We've seen this in Europe, but never to this extent. It really lifts your day and adds to our experience.  Ok, bed time...up at 5:30, breakfast at 6...groan.