Stage 21: Shimizu - Milhara (a farm!), 30 kms, Cloud, 21

An Outstanding Surprise!

I can tell you now, last night I stayed in a not very nice place, but because I'm a Henro and paying close attention to the Pilgrim Oath I'm not complaining. I consider these experiences to be part of my ascetic training and as I'm a keen observer, well, I'm only observing! The couple managing the place were very nice and the food was nourishing. The building however, was another story. Feeling a bit shaken and not nicely stirred when I awoke at 4, I wondered what the day would bring and if I'd manage ok. However, once out of the dank, dark building with big cracks in the walls, I began to feel much better as I walked down the main street heading towards the Lawson kombini I'd seen on the way in yesterday and stocked up on couple of Soyjoy bars (energy  bars), two Snickers bars just because they were there and are my favourite and a bottle of Aquarius to kick start my hydration process for the day. Had Rob been with me, no doubt it would have been all about the coffee;)

There were no markers helping me on my way, but using my lovely map book I figured out my route and headed off...into another long tunnel if you can believe it. Not always sure about how I feel about them. Typically long and noisy, full of exhaust and seldom there when it's raining hard! I'd like them more if the long ones suddenly appeared when the rain was bucketing down. Feeling my spirits raised many levels and my front bag full of necessary walking food, I set off at a nice pace to just wake up to the day. I passed young school age kids as I do every morning, and without fail, they all said good morning to me. They always do, and I have my "good mornings" down pat now for these kids. Ohayō gozaimasu! Actually I say this to everyone I meet. It's the polite thing to do, and I do the same at home when out walking, except they all reply to my greeting here. At home, not as often. We need to work on that Victoria.

As I cut back across the peninsula on Highway 321 I'm taking no photos as I've seen most of this before, particularly when I reach the side I walked down yesterday. I notice a Henro coming towards me whose looking lost and I yell and signal for him to turn to his left. He stops and waits for me and it turns out to be my friend Mr. Toyota who gifted me a kindness a couple of days ago by making sure that we received fried eggs and toast for breakfast. Lovely to see him again and I made sure that he was aware of the beautiful route I walked after the Cape. We said our goodbyes and I think that unfortunately I won't see him again as he's two days back so this was a great coincidence. 

I eventually pass by Ōki no Hama Beach again, and eventually the minshuku I stayed in a couple of nights ago.

 

As I move along I see the Lawson kombini across the bridge where I stopped to eat my lunch and to write the blog. This time I don't cross over the bridge, but stay to the west side and walk though some lovely quiet areas.

 

I start to see these great birds that I've seen before and try for a picture or two birds here are very skittish, just like in northern France. 

 

They sit in trees too.

 

Eventually joining the highway again for a couple of kms, then a turn left, but wait, it's not marked on the route, but it looks like the right place? A few photos from the walk up Naruyama Pass.

 

 

I figure it's the only road on my map that makes sense and I just trust that it is. Turns out to be correct, so all goes well. 

 

 

I calculate that I have only 9 kms to walk until my apparent destination. I'll be there by 12:30, too early...if I can find it. Should be down this valley, somewhere.

 

These road flag guys all have matching suits and they waved me through with their red and white flags and bowed. It was also the only unpaved 'trail' I walked today! This was the place through word of mouth that Annemarie and the receptionist at her hotel in Tokishima found for me. I have a rough idea where it is, but it's not in my guide and there are roads everywhere. All you can do is trust. I decide if I can't find it I'll walk on to T39 and throw myself on the mercy of a couple of minshukus there. I've read that a late arrival might get a place to sleep, but no food. I'm ok with that as I have my Snickers and emergency food! I was actually feeling really good today and could have comfortably walked the 47 kms to T39. Yesterday I was pretty well wiped out after fighting the high winds and it would have been rough to make that distance, but today as I walked I got lost in composing poetry for Annemarie, taking photos of the beauty around me and lost track of time. Flow. Before I knew it 30 kms were in the bank and it was just noon. Some days are just like that...you either have it in your legs, or you don't! 

 

So I'm looking to see if a phone number is posted on a sign. It's about the only way I can find a place because for sure I can't read the Japanese name! A place high on the right is flying those very cool kite type things and I wondered if that was it. It was! 

 

I walked up to the farm house and was warmly greeted by lovely Miho.  Who invited me in to the kitchen and made me tea and served a sweet morsel or two. 

 

Then when she was ready to welcome me into my rooms she took my walking sticks and washed the tips which is traditional here and put them in a decorative place of honour.  The place is amazing! Two big rooms to myself, very traditional Japanese setup with a full bath...oh so hot! Also a full kitchen, a washing machine and very nice western toilet...you have no idea! The rain began and so I made it in time! The view from my rooms.

 

After my chores were done and I'd confirmed Annemarie was home safe and sound, I started to write this, but averaging a handful of hours of sleep each night this past 4 days finally caught up to me until there was a knock on my door a few minutes ago. Miho was so worried that she couldn't speak to me in English that she went and picked up a friend who had lived for a time in Australia. She spoke English a mile a minute, but was very helpful and explained everything to me and made sure that Miho knew everything about me. It was endless fun. So for dinner tonight I'm being served wild boar! Yup:)  I've contacted Dr Moreton to see if he can add this place to the new guide as there is a real shortage of accommodation in this area as per my own experience. So fingers crossed. Miho and her husband are super nice people.

And that's my report for today. They have wifi so I can post because my own doesn't work here. Will see how pictures load on. Check  the weather for tomorrow too. It's cooler up here so instead of sleeping under my komono, I'll use the quilt...and Annemarie, real pillows! Two of them:)

As I said I lost myself writing poetry today as I walked...this journey is life changing. I wrote a better one for Annemarie, but will post this one as it captured my day. You might remember the beautiful sweet sounding brass bell I found in the mud? Plays for me all through my walking day. I'll be taking it walking again in France next spring. 

Ding, ding my brass bell

Keeping me in the moment 

So meditative :)