Stage 20: M. Kumomo - Shimizu, 35 kms, Sun, Warm, 26

 A Stunning Coast Walk!

A long walk today down to the tip of Cape Ashizuri-misaki. Many Henro stop at a minshuku and stay two nights allowing them to walk to T38, Kongōfukuji without their pack and return the same day. I looked at this option and booked two nights, but then changed my mind because I'd heard that the far side of the Cape was special. To loop all the way round would have been some 50kms, a stiff walk even without a pack. I reminded myself that I'm alone and not really in a walking cohort, so decided to split the route. Besides, I don't usually like to repeat sections...always forward never back! A good decision because I could take my time at the temple and enjoy the stunning scenery on this beautiful day. 

Awake at 5 and breakfasting at 6. A very nice day promises after the heavy wind during the night. I was surprised at dinner to find Christine there. Christine is from the San Fran area and impressively has taken the time to learn some Japanese before heading across for the 88. We'd briefly met along the way each of the last 3 days, a quick hello and on our separate ways. So a chance to converse easily in English over dinner was very welcome. Having met very few foreigners the past two weeks, last night was very welcome. No doubt I talked her ear off;)

The morning sunrise.

 

The walk down to the cape was stunning. I met Masato, the monk I'd walked with a few days ago, coming back up from the Cape very early on. We stopped to talk and then headed in our separate directions, promising to write emails. Shortly afterwards I passed Ōki no Hama beach, a long stretch of sand. 

 

I chose to stay on the main road because past experiences with walking on sandy beaches with a full pack have been interesting. Often I've had to stop and remove my boots to wade across an outwash estuary stream. Not wishing the hassle, I gave it a miss, but enjoyed the beach.

The walk soon took me through a small fishing village...

 

and across a short section of beach. I found a well marked trail leading up into the forest.

 

I came out onto a country road that reminded me more of walking in France than Japan!

 

Just so much beautiful walking and scenery. I'd started my day on the right in the small village.

 

 

I walked through a fishing village and the catch was in as were large numbers of those falcon like birds, but maybe they are a type of seagull?

 

 

I can't figure this one out. I watch daily as the crows and these birds endlessly fight it out in the skies. The crows the nimbler of the two, but with a healthy respect! Maybe when I take a rest day, I'll google it and try to sort it out. Who are you?

I caught up to my buddy...not a word of English of course, but we have being connecting for days now and it feels very comfortable.

 

Today he permitted a picture. Reminds me in a small way of Annemarie's father. That same spunk and build. He has my favourite hat. Now if I could find one of these sedge hats then I'd be temped...very tempted! 

I found that I really enjoyed my time at T38. Perhaps it was the water, a very soothing effect.

 

Without any crowds it has a very comfortable feel to it, and the folks in the administration office waiting to stamp my book were very cheerful and welcoming. 

 

I took some time here to reflect and to think about Annemarie who is flying home today. How strange that feels. We connected briefly online when I arrived here to my minshuku mid afternoon. She is ready to be home in our house with chairs, a soft bed that's not on the floor and a stable environment for a time. I do get it, and look forward to those things as well...in about 4 weeks!

In the meantime, I'm a walking Henro. 

So down at T38 I see this tall kid and we get to talking at the vending machine over a nice cold Aquarius. He's from Bordeaux, France and when he hears I've recently been there 3-4 times we begin to talk about his walking experience. He's 23 stages on the walk. Never done anything like this before and he's slowly lengthening his days. Good for him, doing it the right way. He said he met two other French folks from New Caledonia a few days back. Seems they are the same couple we met early in our walk. They pulled a 42 km day walk and have been walking very fast each day, just as when we met. I guess this caught up to them as they are dealing with foot injuries and blisters, so have slowed down. They can't be too far ahead, and perhaps I'll see them again. I also was surprised when a young guy walked past me and said hi. Too weird, hardly any foreigners for days and now it's raining foreigners! Turns out he and his pal are riding the route and they are from Victoria too! Presently living in Tokyo, but preparing to move home. On his way cycling past me a bit later he passes me his email address. So Ruth, if you are still following my blog, I'll arrange to introduce you to this fellow and you two can chat. I've only seen about 4 cyclists and those I've spoken with tell me there are challenges to riding this route. There are challenges walking it too! Let me tell you!

As I round the cape the winds begin to pick up and drives into my face with quite the force. At times it's a struggle to make decent headway and I really slow down. Must be hell on their bikes today. Eventually I decide to take a green variant route (scenic) that I've had my eye on. Amazing! Single lane road winding along the shore up above across the headlands. The roads are lined by wild flowering trees and the views are stunning.

 

 

 

Through the past few days I've often thought of the extremely dangerous journeys the early Henro undertook to visit the temples. There were no roads and they had to scramble over moutains, along rocky beaches and no doubt through storms, finding food as they went. No wonder so many died. A personal journey of faith and belief. Have things really changed that much? The Shokuko 88 is much safer today and much more accessible, but the majority of of the Henro are still walking for many of the same reasons their ancestors and those before them walked. I see it every day. When I share a meal, some time on the road spent in conversation and at the temples. Annemarie and I have both found this to be a much more spiritual walk than others we have experienced. At some point I'm going to try and post a compare and contrast of the European Caminos and the Shikoku Henro. We talked about this as we walked and I think Annemarie is prepared to write a poem to post with my comments and observations. You know what part will of course be the best...really like the poetry:)

 

 

It was a long haul into Shimizu. Home tonight.

  The road seemed to stretch forever. I thought I was there as I arrived at a fishing village of some size only to find that I still had quite a way to go. I caught my pole in one of the many holes in the cement and of course broke it. So after I post this I'll be taking my tape and fixing it so that it can carry on with me. Failing that, I'll jettison it and buy a KD pole for my left hand! These poles have at least 7,000 kms on the meter, so no surprise that they are showing their age. Love them, but may be time to replace when I return home in time for next year.

Ok. Find some photos, post this, get a booking done for Saturday night and fix poles! 

I also want to comment that the place I'm staying at tonight has clearly seen better days, but the operators are very nice and served me a very good dinner, by myself in front of a tv. So I watched the news in Japanese. They also helped me to book an accommodation for this Saturday night. I wanted to get the weekend tied down because Saturday nights are always hard to get a bed. Same everywhere we travel. The next two nights I've booked a business hotel in Uwajima, a fairly good size city with a 400 year old castle and an interesting island off shore. I'll decide if I need a break before then as I'll be 635 kms into the walk with much of the climbing still ahead. Seems like a good idea and it appears that I identified this city as a likely rest stop last winter when I was reading...its written in my map book! 14 days of walking probably demands a break to help avoid possible injury.

 

Hope you had a good flight Annemarie!

Ok, now on to that pole!