Stage 16: Temple 36 - Susaki City, 28 kms, Sun, 26...tanning weather:)

A Walk With a Monk 

Last winter as I read and dreamed of this walk I had heard about the possibility to walk along the coast via the Yokohama Skyline. It follows a quieter, very scenic road. So I thought this would be my way. However, when on these journeys I'm learning that it's important to be open to as many options and experiences as possible. Last night at dinner my young friend who is a practicing Buddhist monk from Hokydo said that when he met with the senior priest at T36 yesterday, he was told that KD took many different routes on his pilgrimages around Shokuko. In this area because there were no roads to speak of he apparently chose to take a small boat along the Yokonami Sanri, an inlet running parallel to the coast. He invited me to join him on this different way, and I graciously accepted his kind offer. 

The odd part for me was the decision to wait at the minshuku. I'm usually well down the road by 8, but I decided the experience would be worth the delay. I took the opportunity to rise early before 5 and watch the sunrise from my room, write a few emails,  enjoy a slow breakfast and practice a little yoga to keep my hips and joints as loose as possible. I neglected this during my walk last year and it took a while to get things back to normal when I returned home. I promised myself that this wouldn't happen this year. So far, so good! 

A slow start to the day was a real treat, and the sunrise was worth the early wake up! Ha, right on Rob! He messaged me this morning and said how strange a sunrise on the Pacific would be to see. At home we only see the sun set on the Pacific. Well, here it is Rob. What do you think?

 

The ferry left the port of Umetate at about 10 and we touched in at serveral places to allow others on and off. The trip took about an hour and was a very nice way to see some of the area and it gave my body a nice break as well. I was surprised at how many other Henro were on our little boat. Clearly I'd missed this option, or I was perhaps blind to it when I was reading about the route. The 'SS Minnow'!

 

 

 

This fellow (middle) is sort of running the route, mostly on the downhill parts. Quite amazing! He was pretty tired yesterday when I met him at the top of T35 and I shared my osettai candy with him. He was moving pretty slow at that point and I walked past him as he jogged down from the temple and I didn't see him again until this morning. He was definitely moving better today after resting all night. Nice guy.

 

Lots of nice views from the boat. The trees that were so brown just two weeks ago have erupted into fresh new greens for the spring season!

 

 

We off loaded at Yokonami and then began the walk to Susaki where I would meet Annemarie early afternoon around 14:00 when she arrived on the train from Kochi (I'm sitting in a tiny local train stop waiting for her and eating my lunch as I write this).  I was really looking forward to sharing all that had happened since we last saw each other...was it only yesterday morning? I knew she had been busy helping our German connection Simon find new boots and that they had dinner together last night. Simon was having shoe problems and returned by train from T37 to Kochi to sort things out. Who knows, we may yet connect again. I'll be watching for him. I told Masato about him and gave him a description so that if he saw him he could walk up to him and ask, "are you Simon?". Simon will be shocked and the Masato is to tell him that it's monk intuition!! Henro fun....

My monk friend, Masato is an interesting fellow with pretty good, though a bit rusty English. Nonetheless it was wonderful to be able to talk with him and ask the questions that had been gathering in my mind. He told me that he was quite worried about becoming motion sick on the small enclosed boat. A not unreasonable concern. I helped him out with that by telling him to look to the horizon and not to look at his iPhone or guide book. Then I began to ask questions and learn. Seemed to do the trick. Before we knew it we were at the last stop and off the boat. I asked him if he wanted to continue on together or if he'd rather walk with one of the other Henro. He said that we should walk together and talk...so we did. 

He explained to me that he's walking in white today because he won't be visiting a temple. Had there been a temple he would have had his dark robes on. Interesting. Check out his walking shoes. He said they are ok and allow him to wear thongs in the tempes, but the ankle support isn't there and he has to be careful on the descents. He also showed me how to tie the white towel on my head that was provided as osettai the other day. Useful to keep your neck  protected. Many of the Japanese Henro seem to prefer this and not the conical sedge hat.  

We spoke of many things and I was able to improve my understanding of Buddhism, or rather the life of a Buddhist monk which was pretty easy given my knowledge is admittedly thin. This is Masato's first pilgrimage and he is walking it to learn all that he can and he will then return to his temple in Hokydo and share what he has experienced with his congregation. Not unlike what our dear friends Neil and Sarah do after their Caminos when they return home to Oz. He then plans to lead some of his congregation, the older folks, on a bus pilgrimage around Shikoku acting as a Sendatsu. I asked him if that was what we saw when we'd noticed other monks leading groups, and yes he confirmed this was the case. I'd guessed that perhaps the tour companies hired or borrowed monks.

He has completed his apprenticeship and is a full monk, meaning that he no longer has to abstain from alcohol or meat. Although last night he said that there would be no beer while he was on pilgrimage. No beer!? Oh the pain! He is I think a Shinbutsu Buddhist and there are about 100 monks at his temple, though now no longer an initiate he can live away from the temple. He explained that under a decree by the government a 100 years ago monks can marry. He went on to tell me how controversial this is because often children follow their parents into the same job role, even if they want to do something else. I had the sense that he wasn't in favour of marriage within the order, but he later told me that he was getting married in October. I explained the weddings we'd seen and the beautiful wedding attire. He proudly pulled out his iPhone and showed me his pictures with his girlfriend. Nice! We walked along in companionable way and did stop to take a few photos.

 

 

 

 

We discussed the European Caminos and the differences, and similarities to the Shikoku. That was interesting! We had a hat blow off incident requiring a decent rescue. It's happened to me too, in a rice paddy where my hat became a boat and I had to save it. It's happened on Camino as well. Ken and Neil will confirm. 

Next year Masato and his new bride plan to travel to Canada to see where Anne Of Green Gables is from on PEI...what an odd destination? And they will travel north to see the Northern Lights as well. We exchanged emails, but I expect to see him again. I move along a little quicker and further each day, so expect to see him in a couple of days. What good fortune I had today! I will call this experience osettai.

A last note, Masato immediately recognized the charm on my pack that I'd purchased at Koyasan,because he lived there for 8 years. He will travel there again at the end of his pilgrimage as is often done. He congratulated us on beginning there and encouraged me to finish there as well. If time, it's firmly in the back of my mind.

Annemarie arrived on her train as planned and now I've just finished my hot bath and we are set for dinner out somewhere. No meals served at this minshuku. 

 

I've been receiving many nice messages and emails from all over. So thanks to family and friends for this. It always means so much when away on these 'vacations'.  And thanks for the reminder that it's Easter weekend. A month away and I've lost track of time. Tomorrow morning Annemarie will walk with me for a few kilometres to a secondary temple then turn back to begin the long trek home to Victoria. I'll move forward to see what's out there. I've already found my solo mode and the Japanese Henro have been very kind to include me now that they understand that I'm going to walk the 88. Not much conversation, but lots of laughter and the joy of sharing the road together.

Happy Easter to all!

Annemarie's final contributions to this journey. Sit back and enjoy!

Two baths in one day!

Soaking it up in Japan

Last chance maximized

The Pilgrim and the Traveller

The traveller seeks to learn about places in the world

Tasting, experiencing, exploring

Ever curious, 

Engaging with different cultures

The pilgrim approaches the journey with intention

Present, open to possibility, attuned

Ever spiritual

Engaging with oneself

To be a pilgrim requires fortitude

To be a traveller requires courage

For both there is discomfort and challenge

For both there is adventure and unexpected reward

A pilgrim is honoured

A traveller is welcomed

A pilgrim is hosted

A traveller is received

A pilgrim is recognized

A traveller is anonymous

There is a pilgrim in the traveller

There is a traveller in the pilgrim