Stage 17: Susaki - Kubokawa, Temple 37, 34 kms, Sunny & Warm, 30

Partings

Well, I guess it's obvious what this post will start off with given the title. We enjoyed a nice visit together last night eating out at a cheap diner type of place, but that was ok because the food was fine and the beer was cold. We came outside to find a huge thunder storm passing complete with a heavy downpour well underway. The hot humid day of course was the trigger and fortunately I had grabbed a big umbrella from the minshuku on the way out! We quickly stopped for some chocolate at the kombini and made our way back to our place and we sat back and watched the flashed and listened to the thunder. Not quite like France two years ago, but fun nonetheless! 

This morning up and away early we returned to our diner for a big American style breakfast! Couldn't say no to that:)  Three eggs, toast, bacon and a sausage plus Earl Grey tea. I was a happy guy! That's food fit to walk on for 7 hours. Then Annemarie walked me out of town a few kilometres and at a long road tunnel we said our goodbyes. It was hard for both of us, but I think we were both prepared for it. I walked into the tunnel and Annemarie headed for her train. As I passed this bridge I thought about the great walk we'd had together.

 

Looking back...

 

On the climb out of town I began to feel better and I wrote a haiku for Annemarie because I knew she'd understand it's real meaning. She figured me out many years ago. 

On my own again,

I will miss Annamarie:(

In my Happy Place!

These flowers are for you...

 

By the time I reached the second tunnel I was singing at the top of my lungs as the cars flew past. Sometimes it's just like that out here. Can't explain...emotions come and go and today was just such a day.

I started the first climb of the day and gee it seemed tough? Then I realized I was carrying more water than usual and Annemarie had brought me more dried fruit. But it was a tough! 

 

I saw no one as I climbed then I figured that those cagey Japanese Henro had probably taken the highway and avoided the climb! The spider webs across my face all the way up sort of gave it way. As the sweat poured off me I wrote my second haiku. I know, who knew? This route is clearly connecting with me, or is that me with it?

The easy Way isn't, 

always the best Way to walk.

You learn on hard Ways.

I was well rewarded along the climb. 

 

 

I descended to sea level, passed through a small village and began the climb to Naako-tōge Pass along the Osaka Henro trail. I'd read this route variant was closed due to logging, but that if you happened past on a Sunday you just might get through because all the workers were off. It reminded me of a similar situation on the Plata in Spain. It worked then, and it also worked today:)   It was a pretty route and as you can see the blossoms are falling from certain varieties.

 

The walk as I said was pretty nice. Does this bridge interest you Neil?

 

And I did notice that the posted warning were indeed accurate. I heard lots of movement as I walked, but if nothing was on the trail, I just kept moving! I know Neil, not a huge one!
 

The last kilometre, however, was pretty much straight up! I startled a guy as I came out of the bamboo forest at the top of the pass where there is a pull off view point. The last 50 metres involved walking through a massive amount of garbage tossed off the top by careless car types. Erin, the view was almost worth the climb! 

 

The pass took me onto something of a plateau with a gentle slope downwards. I'm staying up here tonight and will descend to the ocean tomorrow, possibly in the forecasted rain. The route off the top was beautiful taking me along some very nice country roads for a time...

 

 

....before taking me out onto the main highway. At this point I pretty much decided to through walk the whole day and I plugged in my music, put my head down and made tracks the last 16 kms. I didn't see another Henro all day. It was ok because I enjoyed several interactions with the locals from the very young to the very old.

 

 I was presented with a nice orange for osettai which will be part of my dinner tonight. 

 

 

I reached the temple, completed the Process and then found my very humble lodging for the night. Now laundry washed and hung to dry in my room, bath completed and blog well underway things are just fine. Not a very good place tonight and no food served. A small town and it being Sunday night not much available to eat. So, my Easter dinner will consist of some dried salmon jerky I carry as backup, a protein bar, my second beer (that I carried the last 5 kms) and dessert will be my orange, a banana and a bar of excellent Meiji chocolate that I bought at the kombini when I picked up the beers. Not a bad meal! I hope you are all enjoying your Easter dinner wherever you might be. I have a roof over my head and food in my tummy and I'm content. This very simple life is actually quite nourishing. However, I must say that I would really enjoy a nice turkey thigh! 

Hey Erin and Caitlin, have a great trip to Malta and a wonderful time checking out the tulips in Holland. I've always wanted to do that...well both of those things. Have fun!  Bryan, I hope you are finding a bit of turkey today. Love, Dad.

Happy Easter! 

These are for you Mom!