Stage 22: Milhara - Sukumo, 26 kms, T39, cloud, 20

Hospitality and Kindness

The walk today took me up through the hills in the Milhara Valley and all the way back down to the ocean, though I haven't quite seen it yet. I'll have that pleasure when I depart tomorrow. Here is a photo to what I woke to this morning...very tranquil, except for the thousands of frogs calling out to the world  about something. They roared all night long and I shot a video last night just to get the sound! 

The rest of the day was fairly straight forward, except for the lack of route markers. I really have needed to depend on my excellent map book the last two days. There are some markers, but not always strategically placed. Here are a few photos from my day...

 

 

 

Down by the dam the first warning I've seen about the super sized hornets. They are apparently pretty nasty and you definitely do not want to be stung!

 

 

What I really want to talk about is the hospitality and the kindness I have so often received on is journey. Last night and again this evening are excellent examples. As you'll recall I was hosted by Miho (on the right) and Yoko. 

 

Yoko joined me for dinner after Miho drove quite a ways to pick her up. I discovered just how far when I walked by Yoko's business today. The purpose was to both help Miho explain things to me, but also to permit me to ask my questions and to have company while I was a guest. It was very kind and certainly made my evening so much more enjoyable and meaningful. The food that was served was amazingly prepared and presented.

The wild boar.

 

 Boy I hope none of it's relatives are upset with me? I understand that the boars can sometimes be a danger to the Henro in the forest. I've seen them in the early mornings on lonely paths and I know that they can be pretty big, their tusks maybe bigger. I live in hope that my brass bell will alert them to my presence and that I won't even see fhem, sort of like my bear bell at home. 

Much of the food was harvested from the surrounding forest, brackens and many things that I can't remember. I do know that the way they were prepared and served made each of them very tasty. Yoko told me that Mike is an excellent Japanese cook and she employs her and other women from the community in her food business that I visited today.

Instead of beer, tonight I was served locally brewed Dobaroku saki. 

 

Its brewed by the families in the valley and it so happens that Miho is very well versed in the process. There is a small hole in the lid because it continues to ferment with the local yeasts and the special rice grown in the area, apparently some of the finest in Japan. It has a wonderful taste...that's the rice! There are many pieces of the rice floating in the saki and of course your glass when it's poured. I was cautioned that it's 40 proof! It was very good and reminded me of the raki I'd enjoyed in Turkey, no floating bits there! I'd have taken a bottle with me, but just couldn't afford the extra weight, though the medicinal benefits might have offset?

Miho's daughter and grandson joined us for dessert of the amazing strawberries and oranges. A very cute kid. He was shy at first, but by this morning we were old pals.

 

I took a late start today, a strategic decision to walk to walk a shorter stage to Shimizu. This sets me up for the following two days. It was just 26 kms and even with T39 on the horizon I didn't want to arrive too early. Breakfast at 7 and I wandered off at 8. A lazy morning start! So breakfast was again a thing of beauty and when Miho found that I didn't want to eat the offered raw egg, she scrambled it for me. Wow! When I thought I was done I was presented with ice cream cake and an excellent cup of real tea. Seemed strange, but actually, why not!?  The grandson joined us and he entertained me for almost an hour through breakfast. I taught him 'thumbs up'! It took a while, but then it clicked. Big day for him. First day of kindergarten. I remember my own in Calgary.

 

So eventually with goodbyes said and likely too many bows, I was off. I stopped in at Yoko's place to say goodbye and to again thank her for her company last night, but she was out. I left a note and was teased (at least I think I was) by the ladies there. They were all having a good chuckle, so what could I do, but join in:) 

 

I saw my pal with the interesting sedge hat today again. I also seem to be catching up to the Europeans I've been hearing about. A young couple, a Swedish guy and a girl from Moscow plus a couple from Antwerp. 

The temple Enkōji was ok too...a well whose water helps to heal eye problems.

 

Real turtles.

 

I arrived at my accommodations worried I'd again arrived too early. I looked at the outside of the place and I'll admit my first thought was, oh, not again. But when I walked in the door and saw the display of collectables and smelled the moth balls...you know the ones you used to smell when you visited a great aunt in the 70's...I knew then I was going to be well looked after. And I have been:) 

 

Notice anything special Erin?

 

 I was right, an older couple and they came right out to greet me when they heard I'd arrive. No need for me to be concerned. The old gent speaks very loudly as he's obviously hard of hearing. He showed me around and took me up to my room explaining everything and telling me dinner times and bath times all in Japanese. Then he left me to it and I set up shop. I'd decided that with the week long holiday starting just a week from today that I needed a few hours to plan how I was going to manage this. I understand the whole country pretty much shuts its doors and goes on vacation. No banks, no post, no hotel rooms available many places. 

I set up at the small table and western chairs...

 

...and got to work. I laid out a plan working slowly through the map guide and using the knowledge gained before leaving home and since arriving. Using Booking.com I set up a hotel in Matsuyama for two nights. The first day I'll walk out without my pack and take the train back for the night.  The second day I'll take the train back to where I stopped and walk on to Imabani where I'll stay for three nights and do the same thing each day with the train. Imabani is fully booked out because of the holiday. So lucky! The old fellow was super, making several phone calls for me until he had a word of mouth referral in Imabani which he was able to book for me. I then asked if he could help with another reservation at a key location for two nights just before Golden Week. He took a real interest and his wife joined in, and eventually I had 2 nights booked at a Ryokan in Kuma-kōgen. A huge relief as it's a key place where you drop your pack for the long return walk to T45. It's all coming together. Still two nights to book after my rest day this Monday at Uwajima, plus the last 3-4 days of Golden Week, but I'll sort those out over the next few days. A plan is forming!

Dinner tonight was again a treat. A hot pot and all sorts of dishes. Yummm! Finally some time to write and then I'll answer a few notes if I have any energy. Otherwise I'll crawl into my floor bed and watch the last part of a movie I downloaded from Netflix. Early start tomorrow. Clearly back to reality:)

Ken, this should answer your question. It's quite humid and I get too warm with my white shirt on, even with a micro shirt underneath. I wear iton days I have a temple to visit, but at the temple today I tied it to the back of my pack so it would dry out and headed off...still looking a proper henro, from the back!

 

Don, Happy 60th little brother! About time. There will be a fine bottle of rum for you when I return home! Hope you have a great day and that Kati spoils you! Have fun!