Stage 26: Unimachi - Uchiko, 36 kms, Heavy Rain, 17

Not A Day To Linger

Me, Caesar and Shultz

Not a day to linger long,

Music on, walk on

And that in a nutshell was today's stage. A wet one, but I didn't mind too much, excepting I couldn't linger and take my time practicing photography. A shame, because I came through a beautiful pass, Tosaka Pass up at around 500 metres. But the rain was so heavy for most of the day that I dare not take out my camera very often, and then only when I was under cover at the end of a tunnel or something like that.. So except for stopping at a kombini to have a quick standing bite to eat at 11:30, it was pretty much a through hike. I buttoned up Caesar and together with my super delux wet pants, 'Shultz' (taken from Hogan's Heros a '60's comedy) I was pretty comfortable and dry as I walked along the side of Highway 56 most of the day. I plugged in some favourite music to help to drown out the truck and car noise and then did my best to stay visible. The trucks were flying past and of course most time there was a puddle so I was almost surfing at some points! Sometime when you feel like a bit of a thrill, try walking that close to a massive truck just for the sensation of the vacuum and then compression wave as one hits you right after the other. Its a bit of a rush, but also helps to keep you alert! This went on and on. Sometimes there's a sort of sidewalk on the highway verge, other times there's just a thin strip of pavement where you try to establish your presence, poles out on the traffic side to give yourself the illusion that the cars will go a bit outside you. Actually, most Japanese drivers are very courteous as they genuinely are in everything they do, more so than many European drivers I've encountered.

I like the saying, the devils in the detail, or something like that. I get a fresh bicycle flashing light before each walk, and here it's been particularly useful in the long tunnels. Today it was a wonderful piece of gear as I walked through first the 1,117 metre Tosaka Tunnel and later the shorter tunnel outside Ōzu. Neither tunnel is designed for foot traffic and there is very little lighting and no sidewalk. Ordinarily I wouldn't have walked through them, but it was just so darn wet that I didn't want to risk an injury on the climb above the tunnel. I figured the tunnel would be nice and dry, and it was, plus I trusted that my light would show the drivers where I was. I opened my poncho and set the light in strob and the truck drivers responded wonderfully, moving way over to the other lane when there was room. I bowed to each of them in complete gratitude. I almost caught up to another Henro in the tunnel who'd made the same decision and he was having a very difficult time as the trucks just couldn't see him until the last second. I feared for his life and when we met at the end of the tunnel he looked thrilled having survived, but was also clearly shaken. I wish I'd caught up to him earlier so that he could have followed me through. It's all timing isn't it.

It was a long beautiful descent into Ōzu City. Just more of the same. This place is famous for using Cormorants to fish in the Hiji-kawa River after sunset. Obviously they use lights and practice this June to September. There is also a nice Castle here that I'd wanted to visit, but with the weather as it was and me dripping water like Niagra Falls I took a chance and only snapped a quick shot. 

 

The highway after town was pretty ugly with shopping type stuff and businesses everywhere.

 

Lunch option could have been here...but decided, not on your life! A Mos burger...hmmm?

 

So a kombini lunch it was.

 

I passed by Temple 8, one of the lesser 20 temples on the Henro, but decided not to stop for obvious reasons:) But I did stop under the train bridge beside the tour bus to take a photo of the temple.

 

There were a couple of variants that I walked to get away from the heavy traffic and noise, if only for a short while. At the end of one as I rejoined the highway the rain was actually increasing in velocity and I knew that there was a Henro shelter just ahead. I popped in and found no where to sit?! So I walked on in the rain. A local I think, judging from his attire. 

The last variant was actually a trail, a muddy trail. I decided to stay on it because my boots were made for this type of thing and I just wanted to finish the day being just 3 kms out of Uchiko. 

So I'm in. All my gear is drying and I've showered and changed. I'm drinking a hot pot of very nice green tea as I also rehydrate with an Aquarius and eat potato chips. Yummm! I was delighted to get in here because I had heard the place is very authentic, the hosts kind and the food excellent (served downstairs in the restaurant). So far the first two items have proven entirely correct and I'm sure my meals here will be excellent! 

 

Ah, another Henro has arrived, now 4:10. I've had the place to myself the past 2.5 hours. My host tells me there is a French fellow here tonight...I'll be able to wow him with my French! Is he ever in for a treat:)