Stage 18: Kubokawa - Anigawa, 34 kms, Rain & Wind Lots!, 21

It Was A Wet and Windy Day*

* best spoken using an Elmer Fudd voice...I know, it dates me back to Bugs Bunny. I can live with that:)

Just me and the frogs,

as I walk past the rice fields.

Where are the Henro?

I was going to call this post 'Rain Pants' or 'Me And the Frogs', but then a haiku jumped into my head as I found myself talking to the frogs late today. Cows in Spain, apparently frogs in Japan. I know, Annemarie hardly gone and already I'm loosing it! 'Rain Pants' would have been good too, because my Monte Belle super light, Gortex, seam sealed, zipper sealed, breathable rain pants with lower side zippers that allow on and off over hiking boots on the fly really were wonderful today! And I needed them in a big way.

 

I started off earlier than usual because the minimalist minshuku where I holed up didn't provide meals and took my ¥4,000 last night. So with no reason to hang out I walked to a kombini (convenience store) and found a breakfast that included an industrial croissant, a nice cup of non-green tea with caffeine and a prepackaged Japanese omelette that was actually fairly tasty. As I stood outside munching, the rain began to come down. I was expecting it and put on 'Caesar' my poncho and headed off into the gloom. Not far along the Irish type mist decided to turn to west coast BC rain and so I pulled over into a farmer's barn and put on my Mont Bells. They're black and look really good with my fire engine red poncho. Better yet, they work. 

It was a long descent from the pass and while most was along the highway, there were some steep sections through some beautiful cedar forests.

 

 

Looking back towards the pass.

 

The rain came and went for the next 90 minutes or so as I walked along an increasingly busy Monday morning Highway 56, that would be highway go jū roku to us Henro types. At times I could get off the highway for short periods.

 

Eventually when the rain was falling heavily and I'd turned up my music as far as I dared, I glanced to my right across said highway and saw a small red route marker no bigger than a silver dollar. Easily missed in the rain. I decided to see where it went and soon found myself on a very quite country road on a variant for some 9 kms. It was quiet and very beautiful.

 

 

Massive stork like birds here. They leave their mark! These are in the flooded rice fields...guess frogs legs was on the menu last night.

 

 

By the time I finished the variant the rain had changed to very heavy and I pushed on through the rain and increasingly stronger winds. A momentary respite in a country quiet tunnel.

 

 

Arriving at sea level the winds picked up and as I moved out along the headlands the wind would almost stop me in my tracks. However, while my poncho road up my legs from the wind pressure, my Mont Bells stayed in place and kept the rain from running down my leg and into the boots. Now, while they are good, they aren't perfect. Pocket access into my pants is a bit of a challenge, meaning that I had to move my map book into my small black bag. Next time I think I'll put it into the iPad bag that Seth gave me for Christmas and hang it around my neck. 

As I passed through the last of the tunnels I stopped for the one of only a very few selfies on the trip,

 

and then walked into Anigawa where I found a small grocer and purchased some raw fish and other important items (beer) for a late lunch. I was delighted when the owner told me my minshuku was just 300 metres down the road. It was howling by then and I was already thinking horse to the barn type thoughts. I arrived at the front door and no one came to greet me. I called out, still no answer. Knowing I had the right place I sat down and took my almost dry boots off, packed them with newspaper, helped myself to a towel to dry off and then with slippers on I went looking for the proprietor. I found him sleeping. Being quite damp I made all sorts of noises to walk him, but he was dead to the world. So I sat and ate my lunch and rehydrated. When he came out 30 minutes later he was surprised to see me.

Shown to my decent room and then a tour to find the laundry machines (a dryer here, no charge) and the oban (bath) I was left to myself to make all these things work. Here's what you deal with when you do laundry. 

 

 

I got everything running and headed into this nice, ultra clean oban. 

 

Done there I put the laundry in the drier. Seems I shrunk my underwear...sigh. I can't read Japanese, so it's kind of a wing and a prayer approach. Press buttons until everything looks good and well lit up and then press what you think is 'go'. 

Any way. My clothes are all clean and dry. Yesterday I just did the minimal and hung everything to dry in my very hot room.  Today's view from my room...2nd stories to see over the wave barrier.

 

It's storming outside ever harder. I can see it all from my room window and the rain is pounding on it as I write this post. Supposed to be sunny tomorrow. We are a long way from that presently!