Rest Day: Still Middle of Nowhere, Rain, 18, Surfers!

Potpourri 

Yesterday at the 190 km point we passed from Tokushima Prefecture, the Hosshin dōjō (place of Spiritual Awakening and into Kochi Prefecture, the Shugyō dojo, the Place of Ascetic Training where we will apparently withdraw from daily life and live more simply. This is obviously a long and difficult process as it takes almost 400 kms to get through it. Annemarie will abandon the walk during this part...she must have snuck a look ahead!

With a quiet day in front of us and the place pretty much to ourselves I thought that it would be a good time to write about a few things. There are so many things that one could write about. Everything fresh and new to these eyes. Annemarie is writing too, so will add those comments as well for a different and probably better perspective. By the way, decision confirmed.

 

Firstly, given we are now two nighters, we have been moved upstairs to a nice quiet corner room with views down the way and we can see the many surfers bobbing in the waves. A nice west coast feel, on the east coast. As I think our kids would say, a nice chill place.  

 

Our hosts this morning gave us what I think could be considered one of the nicest compliments a foreigner can receive in Japan. We were told that the family has commented that we are just like the Japanese. Super polite and well behaved. Indeed high praise in a country where these virtues are highly valued. Thanks Mom and Dad! 

We aren't quite sure of the family structure in the household. For sure there are the parents who speak only Japanese. Then there is the 96 year old grandmother who still gardens and rides her bike if you can believe it! We've seen her and she doesn't look at all 96, maybe early 80's. Wow!! The family are very proud of her. Then there is Chi, the young woman who is interacting so much with us. What a sweetheart she is. I can't get a reading on her age, maybe in her early 30's. Chi speaks excellent English and has taken the time to explain the meals to us, help get our next three days organized and has cheerful answered our many cultural questions. She just brought me some Earl Grey tea bags thinking I might be tired of the green tea, though I assured her it's what I drink at home. The young man around her age is equally nice, but with very little English. We aren't sure if he is Chi's husband or brother? I'm leaning towards brother. Addendum; we were just invited by the family to share their lunch. I think I have the story sorted out. Chi was walking the pilgrimage last year and stopped here for the night. Well, I gather there was a spark between she and the family number one son and just a month ago they were married. Mother does much of the wonderful cooking. Chi learned her English as a young girl living with her family in Africa for a few years and she spends three months with her father on Kodiak Island in Alaska where she learned to refine her language skills. She worked for JP Morgan for 8 years and quit there to begin this life...in the middle of nowhere. Actually it's quite beautiful and the family are obviously very close. Here was the simple lunch all prepared on site.

 

 

The care that is generally taken in food preparation and presentation is amazing! Take last night. The vegetables and green stuff was prepared from things gathered in the local forest and harvested from grandma's garden. The fish was caught during the night and everything else was fresh. During my research over the winter I'd read about this minshuku in another henro's recent published account of his pilgrimage. So I took note of it in my map guide with a thought to stay here. Dinner last night was better than expected. Actually, it was the best meal we've experienced in Japan!!

 

The tempura (front left and below) were made up of chrysanthemums greens, mushrooms and squid...who knew?!

 

This is teriyaki yellowfin fish (bottom right).

 

And the best was yellowfin tuna and mackerel sashimi (centre of picture). What I didn't record was the tataki, seared tuna served with vegetables and sauce. Yummm! 

 

Ok enough with the food! I'm presently full and I'm sure everyone would rather I moved on:)

Back a couple of days to Phillippe and Yu. What an interesting couple they are. I wanted to post a few photos of the 'simple' sculpting work he is doing on the interior walls of their guest house. The white material he uses, he makes from lime, seaweed and plant fiber. 

 

 

 

Later that evening he took us the the 1850 house he has restored and rents to families and friends. He explained that Japanese are tearing these houses down at an alarming rate and very little heritage preservation is in place. One can tear down and build anything without approval. We've noticed the hodgepodge of construction everywhere and it's evident in some of the photos I've posted. No real urban planning. Phillippe is quite concerned about this and is actively involved in this process where he resides. 

Traditionally, there is no colour inside, just tones of wood and furniture. 

 

 

The sculpture he has completed at the front of his son Ken's house.

 

Enough of my ramblings. Annemarie has a nice poem to add, and shortly I'll post some thoughts she has written...as the rain continues to monsoon.

Wearing the White

The white is donned as a symbol of intention

To follow the Kobo Diashi temples  with dedication

For all you meet to know the path you have chosen

A shared language with words unspoken

Flashes of white in the forest or on the road far ahead

They, too, are following where Kobo Diashi  led

Osettai is offered to those wearing white

And huts along the way to offer respite

The white has an impact internally as well

The sense of true pilgrimage seems to swell

 

And added responsibility, a code of conduct is required

Sometimes difficult to uphold, especially when tired

The white is a privilege to wear

It is ours, in this time, to bear

Some words about our cultural experiences

A rest day is a great time to record some reflections. Geoff is very diligent is recording on a daily basis through the blog, but I tend to need a certain kind of "space" to write, and I don't often find it on the days we walk. My reflections on this journey have been mostly about the people and the lifestyles we have witnessed. Japan seems to me to either a contradiction or alternatively a beautiful blend of traditional and modern. We have now visited two people in their homes; one very modern with a hint of tradition, the other the reverse. In addition, we have stayed in a range of accommodations, from a typical modern hotel (called business hotels here) to a temple (shukobõ), family style guest houses and hostel type (minshuku and ryokan)...the latter providing meals as well. A common thread is that homes as well as accommodations tend toward the simple and minimalist interior decor. Beauty is clearly seen in simple clean lines. Food is simply prepared, and invariably beautifully presented. Always fresh, and very healthy (we supplement with chocolate so as not to shock our systems).

My reflections have centred primarily on the people we have encountered in Japan, both when we were travelling and now as part of the pilgrim experience. The Japanese people we have met, either through brief encounters or as budding friendships, have been overwhelmingly kind and polite. The words we hear most often are" arrogato goziamasu" (a formal thank you), and "doozo" (after you, please). While Canadians are known to be polite, the Japanese take it to a whole new level...I have yet to get in the last word when exchanging arrigato goziamasu's ( thank you, no thank you, and on it goes), nor have I successfully encouraged a Japanese person to precede me on anything. Kind as they are, I have also found them to be deeply appreciative of any small kindness or courtesy. This does not come across as habitual, rather it seems very genuine. With our pilgrimage experience we have the opportunity to come up close and personal with the spiritual underpinnings here. While according to google the vast majority of people here are not religious, there seems to me to be a pervasive spirituality here. I would argue, for example,  that the bathing ritual (gotta love those daily soaks) is a spiritual practice, a time for meditation and reflection. In a country with the population density of Japan, the lack of crime and violence, as well as low poverty rates are notable. It does not seem to me to be a coincidence that the general predisposition to gratitude, concern for others, and respect that we have experienced contributes to a sense of orderliness not usually found in high density populations.

Engaging in this pilgrimage has definitely given us an exposure to and an experience of Japan that not many visitors have. Our food, for most meals - breakfast and dinner - in our accommodations is provided to us, meaning we get to try things we would not have otherwise tried. The temple experiences, sometimes multiple visits a day, sometimes none, keep us focussed on our intentions and a spiritual connection. The  encounters with other Henro (pilgrims) provides a sense of community that transcends cultural and language barriers (much like our other pilgrimages). Our encounters with non Henro (those offering Osettai, and our hosts where we stay) have been exceptional. These people are invariably attuned to our needs, and it really does give the sense that Kobo Daishi is walking with us. There are so many stories I could tell to illustrate all of this, but then I'd have to stay here another day. I will record them separately in headline form, and perhaps write them up some other day.