Stage 24: Uchiumi - Uwajima, 35 kms, Beautiful Sunny Day, 26

Walking Alone

No high road today

There is no temple up top

Is this enlightened?

Awake and ready to step out very early this morning. I had a plan to execute. My pack was lighter, less food and very little water. I had a steep mountain to climb at the start of the day. All 500 metres of it. I quickly had breakfast, put on my boots and accepted a graciously offered osettai lunch. Bows at the door and I was off. As I walked down the hill to sea level I paused to take in the amazing view.

 

Then I started to consider possibilities. I thought it was a huge shame to miss all this beauty just to climb up through a subtropical jungle, get all sweaty and maybe not even have a decent view at the top. I pulled out my map guide and had a look. There it was, a variant running along the coast. Sure it followed the highway, but it was Sunday morning, meaning less traffic, particularly trucks. Plan spontaneously dumped and a little adjustment made my day far more enjoyable. Though I'll never really know because the climb could have been magical, but on reflection I'm pleased with my decision. There will be other climbs on this journey. This is the climb I missed.

 

Thinking I was going to climb and there being no temple to visit today, I'd carefully folded my very dirty hakui and placed it with care in my pack. Far too warm to wear. It was cool, but pleasant as I started off in my ultra light shirt, and I caught the sunrise over the mountain.

 

There were some wonderful vistas as I wandered along at peace with the world and said hellos to the few folks out having their morning walk. I scared this poor man to death when I said good morning. That often happens as I walk quietly in spite of my bell.

 

It wasn't even 7 yet. I figured that it was time for the classic shadow photo before heading into this one kilometre long foot and bike tunnel.

 

As I was saying, the early morning coastal route was worth the effort and change of plans.

 

 

Hey Dad, this look familiar? Thought of you as I watched him work on his boat. No power sprayer either!

 

The fishing villages were a going concern, and even on Sunday when they're quiet, there is still plenty of activity. Lots of mouths to feed in Japan, 81 million, and all like sea food. Much of the shell fish is produced through aquaculture methods. The coastal bays in this area are full of operations. Haven't seen any sea life as we've walked. No seals, sea lions, otters, etc., that sort of thing. Makes me appreciate what we have at home even more.

 

Eventually the road turned inland, and me with it. I found this beautiful, and quite large butterfly. They are often around me, but this is the first one I've been able to photograph.

 

From fishing villages to agricultural based villages. What a great way to dry onions! I'll be taking this one home with me. Are you seeing this Caitlin?

 

 

 

When I came out of the Lawson kombini shown in the photo above, I found my Henro friend. 

 

We greeted each other as we do everyday...just like long lost friends and walked together for a time. Today I learned that he has a little English. He tells me that he camped last night about 5 kms past my accommodation. When I asked him if he'd climbed the hill this morning, he laughed and said he hadn't. He told me that I'm a strong walker, and I replied, "you're here aren't you?". He thought about that and then smiled, satisfied with my reply. He sent me onwards. A while later when I came out of a kombini I saw him again just out in front. I caught up to him and we again laughed at reconnecting. There was another climb ahead around the tunnel. I asked him if he planned to walk through the tunnel. "For sure!"  I left him behind and eventually arrived at said tunnel, a very long tunnel! 

 

1,710 metres long! Wow! I put on my music, and as my Aussie pals Peter and Dave say, 'went deep'. It's noisy in these places, but the funny thing was that my head switched into Haiku mode. I was all alone with the cars and trucks flying past, and yet I stopped to write into my guide what I was coming up with. 

 

I must have written four in the tunnel including the one at the top of the post and soon after this one. 

See my friend daily.

We say "hi", but in the end,

We walk our own paths.

I stopped for a bowl of delicious udon today and bought a few groceries. I loaded them all into my pack for the final 4 kms and then walked into Uwajima. A good size town. 

 

I have a rest day planned for tomorrow, my first in over 425 kms. I don't really feel like I need a rest, but to set up the next stages and then Golden Week, I had little choice. When I looked in the mirror in my room I saw the reflection of a somewhat hagard face, in need of a shave and a shower, and definitely some rest. Well I've now shaved and showered, machine washed and dried all my clothes and had an inexpensive meal from the kombini down stairs. I thought about Ken and his expensive laundry service at the Parador in Leon as I spent $4 on the laundry machines here. That was a good story and we laughed over dinner that night the three of us, after walking a full circle of several kilometres to find a meal. And what a meal that was! One of the best I've ever experienced in the many months I've spent in Spain these past years.

I've polished off the half bottle of wine I hauled the last kilometres today. I was going to write about walking alone, but I think that will have to keep for another day. Now I think I'll look for a movie on Netflix and then get some sleep. There is a very old castle here that I'm looking forward to seeing tomorrow as well as some skype calls with family at home and two daughters having a very good time in Malta. 

Good night for now:)