Stage 23: Sukumo - Uchumi, 30 kms, Cloud & Sun, 24

 A Big Day

It turned out to be a big day, but the start was anything, but that, as I had trouble with my pillow of all things and getting a good night of sleep wasn't in the cards last night. They often use these bead filled pillows and while Annemarie claims she likes them, they never work for me. Too hard. I ended up pushing it away at some early hour and was wide awake thereafter. Such is life. I always tell myself that I don't have to go to the office when that tired, I just have to walk. Pretty simple:) 

My kind hosts made me a good breakfast and then waved me and another Henro on our way. Usually I take a good look at the route the night before, but with the planning and blog, etc., this didn't happen. A very rare miss. The fellow I started with had no English so he sort of guided me for the first kilometre as the only trail markings were written in Japanese, which doesn't always work for me.

 

In fact, without his guidance I might not have found the start...of a climb! 

 

He waved me on my way with a dozo, meaning, please go ahead. I started off and as I climbed I began to wonder what sort of a climb was starting my day. 300 metres, 1,000'. Not so bad, same as the Alto Peridon in Spain. But the climb was again very steep, unlike the Alto Peridon. 

 

As I ground my way up, stopping from time to time to let my heart find a lower rythum I noticed how poor the trail was marked. I knew where  I was supposed to be, so no problem, until there was only a bit of trail markings in Japanese characters. At the top I found all sorts of markers, but again I couldn't read them and there wasn't a typical red trail marker.

 

There was a red arrow pointing up a trail, so followed that and found a beautiful view. 

 

I rejoined the main trail and walked on until I found a sign written in English  telling me that this trail was not the Henro trail! To go back. So after wondering why they put the sign a kilometre up the trail I turned around and went back to the top of Matsumoto-tōge Pass where the first BIG thing of the day happened. I graduated! Well sort of. The top of the pass is the border between Kochi Prefecture and Ehime Prefecture. You might recall that Kochi Prefecture is considered the Place of Ascetic Training, well Ehime Prefecture is considered the Bodai Dōjō, the Place of Enlightenment. Possibly better to live in Ehime? Still it was a special moment on my journey. I've been feeling like I'm living more and more simply each day.. The pictiures I post of the food and accommodations are very nice, the hosts even more so. But there is a simplicity in the process of walking, of greeting those you meet, accepting the weather and the elements as they present and retiring quietly to your room and hot bath at the end of the day. Trying to remain positive and accepting in all circumstances, not always easily accomplished. If you saw some of the places I've stayed including where I'm sleeping tonight, it might make more sense. I have a roof, a simple meal and a dry bed, and thankfully a rum and raisin chocolate bar:) Sadly mosquitoes too.

The trail down was beautiful, lined with flowering trees.

 

 

 

At the bottom the signage pointed to the left and I walked that way for a time, climbing up a road obviously used for logging. I figured this was wrong, checked my compass and turned back. Seems I got it right. A little later a problem with the signage again, but this time I was able to figure it out, and a local stopped his car and confirmed my location. Very nice of him. I walked back into a populated area and found a Lawson's where I replenished my fluids and set off again. The signage became much better and everything was back to normal. Usually it's pretty good, but I've found some sections are a bit challenging to sort through...half the fun!

I found some pretty cool huts along the way. One had hard candies inside as osettai and I've noticed quite a few are new as they aren't posted in my guide. Really great to see the community so behind this walk. This one had a small fridge and spots to sleep and was provided by a small local dairy.

 

This one is just a place to rest beside the River Sozu. Though in a pinch one could find cover here for a night.

 

Another BIG thing was finding a bakery where I found my lunch. You'd have been pleased Annemarie. 

The next BIG thing was T40, Kanjizaiji, established in 807 and it is the temple that is farthest away from Temple 1. Meaning I've rounded the bouy in sailing terms! 

 

If you splash water on these statues, put a few coins in the box and then pray, your prayers are said to be answered. It was an interesting process to watch.

 

As I walked away from the temple a lady on a bicycle road up beside me and asked me to slow down so we could talk. Turns out she has lived in San Francisco these past 38 years and is home visiting her parents. We had a nice chat and she was very clear about not being a Trump supporter, literally apologizing to me. She asked for my photo so she could show her friends at home a Henro, and then took a selfie with me. Felt odd, but a normal day in the life of a Henro.

A few kilometres later I passed the 600 kilometre mark, the last BIG thing to happen! This was a special moment.

 

I'd like to say that it's all down hill from here, but I understand that the second half of the route is considerably more difficult than the first half. We shall see. At least now I'm beginning the long walk home. There is always a satisfying feeling for me when I pass the half way point. The rest of the day, the last 10 kms was spent walking along the side of a busy highway, so I put on some Beatles, put my head down and walked on. At least I was able to get in some trail kilometres today...my boots were so confused! So much pavement that my lovely boots are beginning to show the wear on the bottoms. Always the outside heals first from the pack effect.

 

At the half way point I'm in good spirits, though some more company would be nice. I've gone through both of the feet on my poles, a first for any of the five long walks I've completed these past 3.5 years. Fortunately I have a second set. I weighed myself yesterday on a good electronic scale and I've dropped about 3 kilos, but I knew this would happen and I'm at my perfect walking weight. I ate all day long on the walk today and have boosted my calorie intake of late, though the food here isn't really condusive to weight gain. I've tossed or sent home a bunch of unneeded gear, so my pack is lean and mean. I'm busy eating a bunch of the food in my pack so I don't have to carry it up the 500 metre climb tomorrow. It's again a very steep go. So far no injuries of any note. So, all in all, can't complain. A much more difficult experience than my prior walks, but still enjoying it immensely. Annemarie loves this chocolate bar. The apple thing was from the bakery.  Both have found a new home:)

 

All by myself in a very humble place tonight. The view is outstanding, but as I'm on the edge of a cliff, literally, I'm not hoping for any type of earthquake! 

 

I had a nap just before dinner, a rare event when I walk. There is no one to chat with here so I think I'll be playing some Fawlty Towers on my iPad tonight. Japanese tv is pretty awful! Love the country, but they really need to fix their tv programming!

 I'll be ready for that rest day tomorrow night! Looked out my window...a fish boat.