I'm staying in Matsuyama again tonight after a short stage today. I decided to shorten my day so that I could enjoy a few of the city sights and have a good lunch. My bed is the best thing I've slept in in over 6 weeks. I was in need of a catchup sleep and I had a good one last night!
The walk today was pretty straight forward, out of the city to T52, Taisanji which was pretty nice up in the trees. A few photos...
then on down the road to T53, Enmyyōji. Not quite as nice, but a good place to finish my day.
I took the train back to town and walked up to the castle to discover that everyone else took the gondola ride! I guess I needed the exercise;)
Hiked back down and headed out for a good lunch. You have to sit in line waiting at most places, typically on the top floor of a building. Almost passed out from hunger! My view with lunch...sat me at the bar right up against the window with an unobstructed view back towards the castle.
I'd wanted to go in the Dōgo Onsen here as it's the oldest in Japan. Over 3,000 years old. However, being a holiday I was told there would be a 2-3 hour wait, so that was off my list...a hot shower in my hotel room will have to do I guess. But 3,000 years old! Just like the ancient hamans in Turkey. Very special!
Ok, so that's it for the days events. What I really wanted to post about is what this Henro looks like beside the European Caminos. I've walked and completely enjoyed 8 different Camino routes in France, Spain and Portugal, but of course only the one in Japan. As I've walked the Henro, I've wondered how best to compare and contrast these similar, yet so different experiences. I have met some wonderful people and found myself in such amazing places on all my walks. Enjoyed experiences that I could previously only dream about and imagine. So how to proceed?
Note: you can skip my ramblings and just go to Annemarie's poem at the bottom! It's better.
I'm 800 kms into the 88 Temple walk and that's about the same length as the Camino Frances, so maybe it's best if I compare these two as I suspect that many more people have experienced the Frances than all the other Caminos combined. I'm sure that everyone who has walked the Frances will have their own opinions and they may not agree with mine, and that's of course completely expected. They shouldn't. It begins the conversation, and I have been asked this question many times as I've walked the Henro, both via email and also by the Japanese and foreign Henro I've met along the way. Rarely a day goes by when I'm not asked this question. I debated with myself if I should even broach the subject in my blog and have decided to do so in order to help sort out my own thoughts on the subject. So here goes!
So how do they shape up side by side from the spiritual, religious, difficulty, support and infrastructure perspectives?
The spiritual and religious perspective is tough for me to assess so I'll get it out of the way first. Pages could be written on this topic, but I don't presently have the time or energy. It would perhaps be a great subject for a Phd! Maybe I'll have to think about that one:) In a nutshell, it comes down to what your own spirituality looks like and what you discover along the way when experiencing one of these amazing journeys. The longer I walk, the better it becomes. When I'm alone it's even better, that's when I really find what I'm looking for. I have found some very spiritual moments on each of my walks, some I still can't or won't discuss. The journey becomes so personal. I tried the other day to convey an experience to Kristine as we walked...I couldn't adequately express it, and I shouldn't have even tried. Annemarie and I discussed this subject as we walked this year. From a 'religious' perspective I think the Shikoku 88 is a more 'spiritual' journey, certainly for the Japanese Henro. They walk and drive to each temple with a specific purpose, to pray there. If you ever get the chance to witness it, it's moving and very deeply conveyed. Even someone like myself who isn't heavily drawn to ritualistic religious practices feels the Henro's intensity and purpose. You can't help it. Many I've met in some way feel that Kōbō Daishi is walking with them at every step. I wish I had more language skills because I think this would have come clearer to me. I understand on the Camino Frances that many do walk for religious purposes, but for most I've met it's not the over riding purpose. Yet as I write this I realize that three dear friends met on the Frances are ministers. Hmmmm? But who says they walked for religious purposes? As I said, on the Henro a big part of the journey is to go to each temple and pray and give thanks for any number of things. On the Camino, for many this isn't the same. But, the churches are very cool and I never tire of walking through them. Ok, I think for this subject I've put enough land mines out there on the trail! Time to move on before I step on any more;)
Typography and physicality, I'd honestly have to say that the 88 is considerably and consistently more difficult than the Frances. Yes there are some high climbs on the Frances, but generally speaking they don't compare in severity and number with the Henro. Then there all the stairs...incredible! If my knees and hips still work at the end of this it will be a small miracle! A couple of years ago I read a blog post written by a well known Irish supporter of the Caminos who lives in Santiago and I believe heads up the Pilgrim office. He and his pal, both very experienced walkers, walked the 88 and he commented to his readers afterwards to think very carefully before attempting the Henro. His purpose was not to dissuade anyone from walking (though he made me question myself several times), but to help them to go into the experience with eyes wide open. He stated that it's not at all like the typical Spanish Caminos. I can second this. Almost 90% of the walk is on roads, and I'd say that perhaps 30% of the Frances is on roads and hard surfaces. That alone can take its toll very quickly. There have been several foreign pilgrims here who first walked the Frances and had to abandon the Henro. I'd say, don't let yourself be discouraged by this. Prepare properly and it's a very doable journey. Injuries happen on all walks, and can happen at any time, to anyone. Just prepare well and it should all work out nicely. So far, so good!
Now for the fun part. The support and infrastructure piece! Oh, it's 5pm and the sun is over the yardarm...I think a glass of wine will go nicely with this section! First things first. I will say that I have experienced and witnessed wonderful moments of support from both the local population and other pilgrims on all my walks. Particularly in Spain and in some very remote places along the way. There can be no doubt about this at all. Any who have walked both or one pilgrimage will have had this experience. It comes with the territory. From help with damaged feet or injury to inviting a solo Pilgrim to join others for a meal. No one is ever alone unless they truely want to be. An amazing fellowship. All that said, I've never seen anything like the kindness and generosity of the people of Shikoku. I appreciate that it's part of the Buddhist process, their involvement in your journey is joined through acts of kindness and practiced through the process of osettai. Ossetia returned by remembering the person and their act of kindness at the next temple. I've had to do this so very often on my way. I hope I haven't forgotten anyone? I think this will be the single most inspiring and life changing experience I will take away from here with me.
Infrastructure wise. Well, they're the same, but not really. Let me explain. Here you call ahead out of courtesy to reserve your bed and meals, just as you would when walking in France. It's the practice here. On the Frances, unless you've booked a small hotel, you get your bed in an albergue on a first come first served basis, unless you are a cyclist. Then you have to wait for the walkers to first arrive. If no beds are available, then you walk on. Not usually a problem because there are many places most of the time. Not so on the Henro. If everything is full, you might have to walk an awfully long way to get another room. That's why so many people carry a small tent and sleeping gear. Far more so than on the Frances. And the washup and hog bath at the end of the day beats any experience I've enjoyed while on Camino! And every place has a washer and often a drier. Magic!
While on the Frances I heard a perigrino answer the question about where she was walking to the next day by saying,"to the end of the page!". A typical response to a 'staged' walk when so many people carry the Brierley guides and use his recommended stages. Nothing wrong with that, and there are easy strategies for avoiding this. Here there is only one guide in English, and it's a darn fine guide. The best I've ever used, but it doesn't set out stages for the walker. The Henro has to be prepared to plan each stage depending on what accommodation might be available and the distance walked each day is often contingent on this. I've had to change plans many times in order to find a place to sleep. And speaking of places to sleep. Well there really are few comparisons to be made between the accommodations available in each route, unless you choose to stay in the small hotels. Then they are much the same. Though Spain is cheaper overall than Japan...much! My blog is full of photos detailing the various types of accommodations if the reader is interested, and also the food.
The food! The food in Japan is easily better prepared, of higher quality and presented like a work of art. Hands down. That said, I sometimes find it very hard to get enough calories. Kristine and I were discussing this the other day and she figures that it's the low fat content in the foods. Don't see many overweight Japanese here. I eat continuously and I can't get enough calories some days. I knew this would be an issue before I arrived.
You never see toilet paper and human waste along the side of a trail in Japan, and that's because they have put lots of maintained toilets along the route. Sorry. It had to be said. Spain could and should take steps to fix this. On a related subject, the Henro has rest huts everywhere for the pilgrims and local people maintain them! I've been taking and saving pictures! Of course they could use a few garbage cans here. There aren't any. Not a single one...except in the next photo! Ha!
On Camino, one often has to carry quite the load of water if no fonts around. On Shikoku, not so much with these beauties every few kilometres! Some are ridiculously placed. These are built into the side of this residential garage.
No view from this kitchen window!
Often I'm only now carrying a half litre of water because I can get something easily. Makes it helpful when you can use the strategy for the climbs...light load up, and fill up at the bottom, unless there is a vending machine on top at the temple. Yup, they have them there too:)
And there are kombini everywhere from 7-11 to Olsen, to Family Mart and Circle K. They carry just about everything. That said, there's something nice about anticipating the next town in Spain. Will there be a small store open? Is there a bar open this early where I can find Rob a coffee? And I really like to sit in the bars at the end of the day, have a cold beer, chat with other perigrinos and write my blog. Also find a meal at lunch or for dinner. I miss that very much here. There are fewer foreigners on the Henro so it's difficult to forge lasting friendships. Also, at least for me, a big language gap. Not so on the Frances. Quite the opposite.
Each country has its own culture and things that make it special and encourage me to really think, but I've been finding my European experiences generally less surprising culturally wise than I use to. I think that this is perhaps because I've travelled to Europe so often over the years. Some of the cultural magic that I've discovering here has been very refreshing and has drastically increased my enjoyment. I was telling Annemarie a few hours ago that I'm still having endless fun. With the lousy weather this spring at home, I'm in no hurry to return!!
Do I have a favourite? Each walk I've been on has its special people, places and experiences. I like it all. My very favourite I'll keep close so as not to unduly influence anyone. I will say that I miss the friendly Buen Camino, and Bon Chemin we all share on the European Caminos. They really need something like that here instead of the usual good mornings, good afternoons and stuff like that. Though the bows are a nice touch.
On another topic I would like to say that it's 3 years ago today that I retired. So much has happened since then. Life is definitely more fun!
Ken. I hope your thesis defence went well for you. The usual sleepless night before, I remember it so well. I have no doubt you were a huge success and I hope you will be out celebrating!
Now a special treat. Annemarie and I discussed this subject a number of times while we walked together and she has written a poem to add when I eventually arrived at this topic. I haven't read it, and won't until it's posted. Ok, I just read it. So much better than my ramblings! Thanks Annemarie, I could have had a sleep instead! You missed the poorly marked sections of the Henro:)
No Comparison
He sits across from us and despite the language barrier, he’s doing his best
He says the Ohenro is harder than the Camino…to this his French Canadian friend will attest
I am reluctant to make a comparison, though it is among the questions most asked
Along with “how far is the walk”, and “just how heavy was your pack”
A pilgrimage is a personal undertaking, each individual’s experience unique
So my response to this oft asked question may seem oblique
Both engage the heart and the spirit, mind body and soul
Both require intention, with a daily and a longer-term goal
Both provide the opportunity for introspection and reflection
And although both are well marked, at some point you will likely lose your direction
Both test your physical ability with climbs and tricky descents
And with both you must manage exposure to the elements
The Peregrino and the Henro are honoured and revered
Receiving acts of kindness from the locals, by which they are cheered
Each has its rules of conduct to be followed with respect
They serve a purpose, and the pilgrim knows what to expect
The Ohenro is longer and circular
The Camino by nature is more linear
On the Camino both the language and the alphabet are more familiar
The added language challenge of the Ohenro is part of its allure
Warm toilet seats and a daily hot soak are found only on the Ohenro
While bottomless wine, stand up showers and regular beds are available on the Camino
The food on the Ohenro is healthier, small portions with wide variety sometimes unrecognizable
On the Camino foods are more familiar and portions are sizeable
The Camino has more trails, less walking on pavement
The climbs are steeper and more treacherous on the Ohenro, to our amazement
There are fewer walkers on the Ohenro and accommodations more sparse
Requiring much attention and planning in parts
To me, though, the philosophical underpinnings distinguish them the most
Not just the religious base, but more fundamentally how the pilgrimage is approached
The Ohenro is about the temples, their stories and history, with Kobo Daishi as spritual guide
Each temple grounded me, reminded me why I was there; the walk was an aside
The Camino is about community, being open to possibilities, with St. James the guiding figure
The churches with gilded beauty reminded me of my religious roots for sure
Each provided an adventure, an experience never to be forgotten
To be valued and treasured in its own right not really amenable to comparison
But if a comparison is required
If some sort of summary is desired…
The Ohenro was, for me, more internal
The Camino was, for me, more external
