Stage 29: Xunqueira to Ourense, 22 kms, 4 hours, dark then sunny...20C

ENOUGH...With the Albergues!!

At least for today. Funny how it suddenly happens...out here walking for close to 5 weeks and I've stayed in albergues most nights, hostels and hotels a few nights...the parador doesn't count...it was a gift! The purpose is to live simply, a bed each night, the good company of other similarly minded peregrinos and simple, generally healthy food. Walk all day and have simple comforts and companionship at the conclusion of each day. A lovely and special existence with harmony and fulfilment if you look for it. Until last night...

As I near the conclusion of the journey in Santiago de Compostela, new peregrinos, mostly Spanish are beginning to join the Camino to walk the last 100-150 kms in order to qualify to receive their Compostela of confirming completion of at least the minimum required 100 kms. Those of us hardened souls who have been walking all these weeks see a difference in some of the recent arrivals. They are  often, but not always, Spaniardsswemingly on a cheap vacation. They arrive each day quite late in the afternoon, shower and dress up a bit, make their beds then head for the bars, returning after lights out very much under the influence. Didier and I had to deal with a couple of middle aged women last night who returned very late, speaking loudly and proceeded to wake us up in an effort to start some sort of party. They wouldn't take "no!" for an answer and persisted. Finally at about 2pm they went to bed in the bunks beside us and continued messing around before finally falling into what could only be a drunken stupor. This was something of a surprise after 5 weeks without a single episode, but I'm hearing from others about similar circumstances the last few days. 

Didier and I were both up before 6 and on the road as neither could sleep. In the finest peregrino tradition we left very quietly, met Annemarie and departed into the dark. Your sunrise picture sometime later...

As I walked a very non-descript road today (road ways full of busy traffic) and through industrial areas, I made the decision to stay in a small hotel tonight, even though the albergue is a special place in an old monestary. I had planned to stay there, but I also knew that the disruptive peregrino tourists would be there too. Stopped at the tourist info place and used their computer to book my little place then immediately went there. The front desk lady smiled at me, but also gave me a serious once over. I explained I was a peregrino which seemed to satisfy her. Upstairs I had my first real look in the mirror in over a week and I could see where she was coming from! I'm not sure when I last shaved, though I shower every day. So all my clothes out and most washed in the sink then rinsed in the shower, followed by a long, hot shower for myself! Brilliant, brilliant, brilliant!!!! A good shave, a bit of deodorant and I was ready to eat. The front desk lady gave me a thumbs up and sent me to a local restaurant.

I bumped into Philip and Giselle from France coming in to the hotel. They had had a similar experience with rude drunken Spaniards so had taken the bus here this morning. The long term peregrinos are abandoning the albergues here and taking a room if they can afford it. My room with bath is only $45, so a deal. I'm now siting here with a bowl of caldo gallego soup, 

a plate of pulpo y patatas and a half bottle of excellent white Galicin wine. I intend to eat all of the meal, drink all the wine and then return to my room to post this and get some sleep!  I'll worry about provisioning myself for tomorrow a bit later, i may even stay here another day...all will come clear...when I wake up:)

On another note, I asked for some help from a couple of friends yesterday online and received much more than I asked for. I continue to be impressed and apprecitive of the support provided. Sometimes I don't even have to ask...an information need is anticipated and provided. Today it was an alternate walking route into the city. The traditional way drags one through the ugliest of industrial zones and city blocks. The route forwarded to me took me along a trail bordering a small creek all the way into town, thanks so much Neville! A nice ending to an otherwise very non-discript stage.

I've seen a few sights during my brief wanderings, and here are a few...

As one might expect, after two hours of sleep I'm Feeling the wine at 2:30, so time for some sleep!

106 kms to go! Here was the first numbered way marker on the trip...

By the way...in the home of the reining World Cup champions...it's everything footbal as we lead up to 

Brazil 2014! They are just soccer crazy here...will be such fun to be here for the first games!

 Buen Camino!