Wednesday, June 4, 2014

Stage 23: Santa Croya to Mombuey, 38 kms, 7.5 hours, 25C - seemed hotter at times

Truck Stop!

Those of you who have followed our Camino blog and our other travel blog over the years know that there is something special that we do at least once per trip...yup, we find a cheap truck stop for a night. Annemarie, you will be so proud of me...I found one! 30 euros! Top floor at the back away from the highway. In the past this place has been difficult for peregrinos to find a room because the construction crews for the highway and train take the rooms, but they have moved further west, so the rooms are now available (Neville if you see this, a modification to your spread sheet is needed).
I passed it on the way into town, but when I found the alburgue full, or so I was told. There wasn't any where else to stay, and when I asked around town about Hostel La Ruta I was told that it's 2 kms back up the hill out of town on the highway...exactly the place I had passed on my way in. I took this photo on the way in, thinking that if all else failed I would stay...in a truck stop. So technically I walked 42 kms today...into town and back out again...yippee. I sit here in my room drinking a very, very cold Amstel cerveza and munching on a bag of potato chips...need the salt:) I also have a bottle of water going too. 

I was so excited to share this that I forgot to put the sunrise photo in first. Oops!
I planned to walk 30 to Rionegro today, but as I walked I began to realize that if I was language isolated with all the Fremch peregrinos and Spanish cyclists I should make a clean break and walk on today. I think Didier had an idea what was on my mind as I caught up with him early, shared a few words and the sunrise, then said goodbye and took off. He won't be surprised to arrive at Rionegro to find me not there, and he is happy to be with a group of nice French peregrinos. I expect to reconnect with him in Ourense in six days, Tuesday. I'll take two nights there to soak in the hot springs and think about the rest of the journey. So he will catch up there and we can find our way into Santiago 4 or 5 days later. The other reason I took off was weather related. On Saturday the weather looks like it's going to be very wet, and that's the day I climb the first of two major passes. The first goes to over 1300m or 7,400' with the actual climb only 400m or 1,400'. Over the years I've climbed enough in the rain to know to avoid it if possible...you can't see anything and you just get wet and muddy. On the trail, wet boots are unpleasant and a sure way to encourage blisters. So to mitigate this, tomorrow I plan to walk at least to Puebla de Sanbra, a comfortable 33 kms to put me in position to walk 31 to Lubian on Friday, first climb included. Hopefully missing the rain on Saturday. You can see the mountains are getting closer by the day and that there is still snow at the upper levels. This mountain even has an arrow pointing the way...I think a good omen.
The walk today was a good one with some great off road trails, a river that led to a dam, a dam crossing, trails along side fast moving irrigation canals and a few pre-Galicia looking towns as I transition from the foot hills and into the mountains of Galica. So excited for pulpo y patatas! Here is a sampling...





Sure nice to have some space to spread out tonight. Apparently a very good albergue tomorrow night in Puebla de Sanabria, so will hang my hat there. In the meantime...a truck stop. Will walk into town shortly for dinner and a few groceries. Last photo...

Buen Camino

2 comments:

  1. Hi Geoff,

    I've been to, or rather through, Ourense--did I tell you that? The train to Barcelona from Santiago de Compostela goes that way. I had no idea there were hot springs there, though--what a treat for the weary peregrino!

    Thanks again for taking us along on your journey!

    Ken

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  2. Back to spectacular scenery, Geoff, and plans for negotiating weather and landscape. You have done incredibly well with the weather so far. Getting through Galicia dry may be a challenge. Your stone village made us think of Galician soup too - must get on to that recipe this winter (which started here this week). Climb on peregrino, or, as the weather vane suggests, rise up on wings... buen camino, Neil and Sarah

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