Monday, June 9, 2014

Stage 28: Laza to Xunqueira de Ambia, 34 kms, 7 hours, 17C, Cloud & Rain

Just Another Day on the Camino:

Didier and I were able to find a nice bar to have a very good dinner...not bad considering it was Sunday. We awoke to the early risings of the Italians (the "slalom team" as they walk one in front of the other and seem to race using drafting!) who I guess were anxious to be on the road...always seem to be first in and take the preferred beds. Politics on the Camino! I actually caught up and passed them today...the result, first shower and a corner lower bunk...see below. Who says there's no testosterone on the Camino? ;)

We found our way out the door of the albergue in something of a sleepy stupor today...no real reason for that...and after dropping our keys in at the ambulance station (they operate the albergue) we hit the road under grey threatening skies. Fortunately we found a bakery and in the bakery some really nice fresh stuff! Off down the road munching good stuff, but wishing it was pan de chocolate:) No morning sunrise today, but how about a morning smile? 
We were given 7 kms to get our acts together as we walked back up the valley we'd entered yesterday. Then the climb out of the valley commenced. Right back up to the same elevation we'd descended from yesterday. Didier sent me on my way and I began to climb up into the clouds and Irish mist...so forced to employee Margerita today. Ponch on, poncho off type of day until noon.
I really like these Galician way markers...much different than in north central Galicia.

A the top I looked down in some surprise at a vast plateau that must stretch into Portugal. It was a nice descent to the plateau and away from some of the wet stuff. Nice little pueblos and for those familiar with this area something traditional and very special...

In one of the towns there was a Monday market in the main square which brought folks together from far and wide. 
Always a highlife when we travel.
Then it was across the plateau where I had yet another dog experience...this time two big Shepard types. They raced across the field towards me in a very aggressive mood, but they were nothing compared to those I'd faced further south. I simply picked up the nastiest rock on the road and began to toss it in the air and catch it. The result...
Now this is my type of dog, and more typical of Galicia so far...
The long plateau walk continued through some very productive looking country side.
Look at the nest in this tree!
And then back to the climb again...but not for long. Now this is what I think of when I dream of Galicia...
And this...
And this...
A final story...walking along seemingly all alone, but lots of buzzing in the area.
I walked quietly out onto a rock outcrop and here's what all the buzzing was from...
All in all, a typical day...lots to see along the trail, people to meet, locals to exchange pleasantries with and rain drops to side step:) Tomorrow a short day to recover a bit...22 kms to Ourense almost all down hill. where I'll look for a decent accommodation tomorrow...maybe a splurge. Didier has not yet shown up, either because he was caught in heavier rain behind me...very likely, or his shins and knee were acting up...the joy of aging and old injuries. 127 kms to Santiago...I can just about taste it!!
Oh...look what the cat dragged in...Didier has arrived over 9 hours after departing. A rough day...we go to the bar:)

A thought to leave you with.

Buen Camino from my humble abode. Still haven't used my sleeping bag yet...just a silk sheet.

3 comments:

  1. Nice photographs as usual. And congratulations on handling the dogs with just a gesture! Apparently they know what throwing a rock in the air means.

    Ken

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  2. Crumbs - you are almost there! Seems like yesterday you left! You'll be happy to know your house is still standing, the weather is nice here, and you are missing me making a hell of a racket sanding bits of wood - we're making the stairs for the deck we never made last year. Sarah on the road had her baby and all was good (did she have it when you were here - can't remember), pretty much everything else is reasonably quite.

    This adventure of yours has definitely got me thinking - I must do something like this again too.... But stuff always gets in the way. Ben got his green belt the other day and was as proud as preening rooster. I am looking at the costs of starting a karate club, weighing it all up - it's more than I had expected..... I just need a place where I can teach for free!

    Enjoy the rest of the walking and keep sending the pictures back and the dogs away!

    3 days to kick off - Brits are happy because their country has written them off. Argentina seems to be the favorites with Brazil. I still fancy the Dutch and Belgians as dark horses.... we'll see! Must be a beer in there somewhere when you get back!

    Best wishes,

    Ariel

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  3. Hi Geoff
    It's wonderful to see such familiar Galician scenes - the green forests, the muddy paths, the old grain stores. I can even remember that pungent Galician smell, which you haven't mentioned!! Is that Ourense we could see in the distance in one of those last photos. I have a feeling our train passed through there on the way back to France. We did watch The Way again on Sunday evening - inspired by your efforts. 127 kms to go - these will fly in retrospect, even if they seem long on the way in. I finally cast of my boots at about 60kms last year - I walked in to Santiago in socks and sandals. What a sight!

    Tarta de Santiago awaits you (not sure if that is the right spelling), along with much celebration and reminiscing.
    Enjoy a slower day tomorrow. Buen camino

    Neil and Sarah

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