Friday, September 2, 2016

Stage 13: Lalin - Ponte Ulla, 36 kms, hot and sunny, 28

Walking in the Steps of My Recent Past

Good thing Rob is on vacation or he'd have us up very early. As it was he was up before 6:00 and getting himself ready to go when I woke up. Ok, a long day. Geared up, and breakfast in our room and we were off. But not quite. We couldn't find a way out of the hotel which was completely locked down. After 10 minutes the night manager surfaced and showed us the TWO signs that said if you want to leave early then call such and such number! Did I say it was early? Then out the door and a 6 km walk down the dark highway to A Laxe, the official end of the Camino de Invierno. 
We were now on familiar ground and I knew the way as though I'd walked the  route just last week, instead of two years ago. As a matter of fact, I suspect I have some of the exact same photos on this blog from 2014. Not this one though, a properly built hay stack! I've only seen a few of these, properly thatched hay that is stacked so the rain runs off and the hay doesn't rot as quickly. Very intelligent.
Then a walk across the Roman bridge...still here two years later including the paved Roman road. Humm, makes sense, it's been here two millennium.  Still in active use.

Through some familiar country side and hamlets...

And into a small church along the way for our first stamp in our credential of the day. One is supposed to obtain two in the last 100 kms, but there has been no place to get two on the Invierno, so we will ask for consideration in Santiago when we request our Composellas. A beautiful small church.
The keeper personally provided our sello. 
Then through the same lovely forests I remembered so well.,


And into Sellida where I started my last stage from two years ago. 42 kms to Santiago from here, but we'd already walked 14 kms so an extra long walk wasn't in the cards, though Annemarie waits. However, coffee was in order and a very nice bar owner took us under her wing and provided a lovely coffee and tea with lots of food for only €3, the deal of the Camino!
At this point we kind of ended up separating for the remainder of the day, each of us thinking that the other needed some space. Turned out this wasn't the case, but it provided us each some time for thought and Rob was able to navigate his way in which can be a skill in itself. 


I caught up to two perigrinos today, a Spanish fellow limping badly who was just walking the last 100 kms, and a Canadian from Ottawa who is linked in to the CCofP there. We stopped at a bar and had a drink and swapped stories. The first perigrinos seen in 9 days! ROb caught up and we walked in together the last few kilometres. He did very well today on this his longest stage ever!
Tomorrow our Camino together draws to a close. I'm very interested to see how Rob responses to the entry into Santiago. A smile would be good!

The lady who runs this bar/hotel has fed us an amazing lunch! Just excellent.?.a small portion of the meal...
I'm so full, but I was very hungry and I've lost all the weight I deliberately put on at home. However, that was expected and is just fine. After a couple of rest days I'll be ready to join Annemarie on the Camino Dos Faros. However, one more estapa on this Camino before then...stay in the moment! 

The owner and I just had a good discussion about the Invierno and how quiet it is. She told me that they have many tourist perigrinos through here these days who just walk the last 100 kms. It was an interesting observation.

Tomorrow as usual will be a special day as we walk into Santiago, but I have to remind myself that this is just the first stage of three, with the Dos Faros and Portuguese to come.

Now my turn to have the shower...I suspect Rob is fast asleep up in our room. He's earned it today! 

Buen Camino!

2 comments:

  1. Another successful day. 36 km is hard the first time you do it. It's hard any time you do it! Glad you met a couple of peregrinos. I'm sure you'll have no problem with your credencial when you say that you walked the Invierno and then the Sanabres.

    Were the peppers you had with your dinner pimentos de Padron? I love those and you can only get them in Galicia, apparently.

    Tomorrow you arrive! Congratulations! ¡Felicidades!

    ¡Buen Camino!

    Ken

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  2. Hi Geoff

    We can hear your delight in reconnecting with the route you walked two years ago. In fact there seems to have been delight in reconnecting with familiar paths before and after the Invierno. It's a good mix - some familiar and some new. Your photos portray a delightful path today - that bridge is amazing and a couple of the forest shots are so evocative. Rob has done well to maintain such a pace. No doubt he'll be keen to arrive and rest but I imagine these past two weeks will also be a significant and good memory for him. He has had a great mentor and guide on the way and you have had a good companion too.

    It was a weird thought to awake this morning and think - 'We're going to Lisbon tomorrow!!' We had a good day yesterday sorting some last minute things to do with work and study. I had to submit an annual report etc. All done and good feedback.

    We hope you have a wonderful walk into Santiago tomorrow. You arrive and we depart, there's a nice rhythm to that. I'm glad we will be able to read your final blog of this walk before we leave and then we'll be off line for 24 hours or so, I'd imagine. Enjoy the last steps of this way. Buen camino, Neil and Sarah

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