Tuesday, October 15, 2013

Stage 27: Cacabelos to La Portela, 25 kms, 5 Hrs, 8-17C, rain

Walkin' the Highway Blues

Woke at 6:30 to pounding rain...stayed hunkered down in my warm bed until 7, but then it was time to move on. Pulled on all the wet gear and gaiters that hadn't been used for a while and went in search of breakfast before departing into the ever increasing rain. The thing of it is, a little rain never hurt anyone...it's just the getting out into it that causes the pain. Once there, however, it's just like any other day on the Camino...one foot in front f the other and enjoy what ever the day brings...and we did. We stated off into some beautiful vine covered hills along the side of a highway...as a matter of record, we were rarely off the highway all day. Very happy to have brought a small flashing cycling light that I tied to my poncho and I also had my head lamp on where the highway was windy and narrow.


We walked through Villafranca and stopped for a hot chocolate chocolatte and left a few puddles on the patient bar keep's floor. You can see our gear on the floor by the bar...good views of the city from here, and definitely on our list as a place to tour through another time.



Time waits for few of us, so we geared up and stepped back out into the rain...did I mention Annemarie was wearing sandals with gaiters all day? No pain killers, no pain either...nice. Much of the remaining walk was along a narrow highway, through a gorge along side a large stream. We had an interesting discussion as we went along about whether we were walking beside a highway or a stream.  So many walking kilometers and its quite funny to watch where the daily conversation goes to! We decided that the stream won out, so we just ignored the road. 


We were able to find a place to stop in a lovely little village called Trabadelo located on a side road and operated by a Dutch couple. I surprised her when I thanked her for lunch in fairly passable Dutch (thanks Netherlands family for the lessons) and we enjoyed the wildlife on our way out of town...all wisely staying up out of the rain, unlike the less brilliant peregrinos.



Believe it or not this is a very old slate roof...the moss reminded me of home.

Home sweet home tonight is a small no star hotel in a truck stop, but the owners are very friendly and dinner should be good. They gave us newspaper to dry out our shoes, very kind of them. 

Met a young lady from Boston here who reminded us so much of Moira...they could easily be sisters...I almost called her Moira and will have to watch myself at dinner! More wildlife (you can see we are up in the mountains).

Tomorrow we climb up to O Cebreiro, about a 2,500' climb. It's very steep, but after walking a month it should be manageable as long as its not raining too hard. Unfortunately the forecast is not in our favor, but we are excited to go up. We will stay at the top of the mountain overnight and then walk through the pass and hike down into Galicia the next day. Should be a great couple of days! Annemarie has just returned to get her camera...for her that must mean its good!

2 comments:

  1. Good morning Geoff and Annemarie - at least its morning here - Thanksgiving weekend behind us and all the tail lights have departed for home. Catlin hosted a wonderful Thanksgiving dinner and we sat long into the evening around the table talking and even eyeing that lovely bottle of unopened liquor of yours Geoff (the one in the china cabinet) but wiser heads prevailed and we thought it best to let it rest in peace for a further period !!!! We look forward to reading your blogs each day - they are well presented and it is good get a good sense of your thoughts and feelings as you progress each day. In fact, it is interesting to observe how your sharing has changed as you have progressed - guess thats all part of the objecti
    of the Camino experience. Quite wonderful. Last night mom and I watched the show "The Way" and could recognize many of the land marks recorded in your blog. We have watched it before but the 2nd time around is even better.

    Your walk today was about the RAIN and the potential rain tomorrow and maybe the next day and how you cope with it in your walk. It reminded me of the powerful song in Les Miserables "One Day More, One Day More One Day More ....... which the prisoners sang as they plodded along and were counting the days they had ahead of them.

    Keep trekking - look after one another and enjoy the trek - an experience of a lifetime. Another hill to climb tomorrow and then downhill to Sanitago

    Love Dad and Mom



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  2. Hi Annemarie and Geoff: My daily ritual is to read your blog along with my evening coffee (and sometimes a dessert - okay, usually a dessert!) Unfortunately, I am not burning the calories the way you to are. A few classes of jazzercise don't compare to your long daily walks. I think that you should start a lecture series when you get home and let people know what they are missing out on. Annemarie already has an in at the university....Thanks so much for sharing this experience with all of us. It is very inspiring. Love Marian

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