Friday, October 11, 2013

Stage 23: Hospital de Orbigo to Astorga, 22kms 3.5 hours, cool and grey overcast 14C; later 23C

What a relief...the Meseta finally came to an end...quite an abrupt end as we began to climb off the high plateau. I really liked the Meseta as it was a place to walk mindlessly and just sort through the things that needed to be sorted. It was beautiful, hauntingly expansive and ultimately exhausting. Today's climb off the plain helped to freshen us up...the cool change in the weather helped as well, but still hiking in shorts and a light shirt. 


Our packs feel almost weightless now and carrying extra things...read chocolate and stuff isn't a problem. We have learned to adjust our water intake and the related volume with the weather. Yesterday I carried 750 ml and Annemarie carried 1 liter. It was long and hot, but I drank .5 l and Annemarie sucked her hydration dry...note we stopped for a coke and another small drink for a boost. Today we each had 750 ml and neither of us touched it. Sitting here now having a nice lunch with many calories and rehydrating with a glass of vino tinto...every day is different on this journey. 

We passed by a cross today where we stopped to rest a foot and it was interesting to see how the place had been adjusted by many passing peregrinos. There is a permanent 'watcher' of the site on duty...


The stones have been placed to remember people and those who have passed. It's a quiet place to meditate and we were the only one there. This goes hand in hand with the small piles of stones on top of the Camino markers...memories of others. We too have joined this activity from time to time as we think of those we have lost.

Along the way we came upon the Cantina of the Gods which is run by a health young man, David, who provides nourishment, a hug and a place to rest for weary pilgrims. I'd heard about him and we walked a more difficult route today in order to connect with this sole. Interesting fellow out there in the middle of nothing.

You get a very cool red heart sello in your credentia, a cup of tea and something to eat. That's David on the right...you were maybe expecting a long haired, bare foot hippie? Me too!

Then we off direction west...always west. This time to Astorga. What an amazing town...I could spend a few days here and that's before I even knew what was here...I do now and we are off to see this city now...
Gaudi was here...


Spent a wonderful afternoon having a nice lunch, walking the city walls, touring the museum, cathedral and Gaudi's Bishop's Palace....quite an amazing fellow, Gaudi. 




Happy faces?
The books were quite colorful with the expected detail from the 12th C.





Onwards to Gaudi....


So tomorrow begins the start of two days of climbing, followed by a day of relatively steep decent. We reach the highest portion of the Camino on Sunday, but the steepest climb to O'Cebreiro happens next Wednesday. These will be long days so we have already secured lodgings as we will be too pooped to figure things out at the time. Annemarie has done her usual excellent job of finding places for us to crash. We feel up to the challenge, but it's amazing the toll this process takes over the weeks.  Some days you are jumping with energy, others not so much.

Buen Camino.

Hills and  Valleys

It seems that each day on this walk there is at least one hill to ascend
For whatever reason there doesn't appear to be a comparable number of descents

The geography of the Camino could be said to be a metaphor for life
The question is, do the hills represent high points or times of strife?

And what about those rocky downhill pieces that require more balance?
Are they times to slow down and rest or do they represent challenges?

We've just completed the long flat Meseta road
It does appear that his was a time of a lighter load

Not boring, a wonderful time to reflect and to look ahead
Although the days were long and at the end we were very glad to find our bed

We are coming to steeper climbs in the next several days
We feel confident we will enjoy what we encounter in this part of the way

Perhaps when we're done we'll have a better sense
Of what is represented for us in the climbs and descents






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