Saturday, October 12, 2013

Stage 24: Astorga to Rabanal del Camino, 21 kms, 5 hrs, 2C - 21C

Stone Villages:

Yesterday I had one of those days, tired and without a huge energy level. Stayed at our Hostel for dinner and were the only two there...they looked after us wonderfully with a started of chicken noodle soup that I'm sure someone's mom made just for me! The rest of dinner was excellent and we were each given a bottle of wine with our meal...strange, but very generous of the family. 

Up early as usual, but felt all fIxed up and back to normal...must have been the soup! Today we left late at 8:15 after a nice goodbye from our host and started the steady climb into the hills and through the small villages that made our day special...beautiful stone work buildings...often dry mason.


We bumped in to our pal Ken today (from Regina) and were we all surprised as we thought him a day behind and he thought us a day or two iin front as we are pretty quick walkers...at least by reputation...these things grow out of proportion of course. Anyway the three amigos were off, but we miss you Marianne.

Into the area of the beautiful stone buildings we walked...through the most impressive small villages thus far. We will see much of this type of village as we move closer to Galecia...sit back and enjoy!



We have seen many religious type things as one would expect along the Camino, but today was the first time we saw prayer flags...a special moment.?

And of course there was the usual wildlife...

But it was mainly about the sights along the way today...



And finally, home sweet home tonight a small town Refugio with what looks to be a very good restaurant...probably our 27th different place to rest and lay our heads on this journey...but this one is very special inside...will try to add a few photos later. Directly across from the town church...could be an interrupted night!

Meeting Ken for dinner tonight and anyone else who we meet through the afternoon...,I think the Redwood Cal. family is here somewhere. Really nice kids....will have to work on David's politics however...but only after a few drinks!

Buan Camino! Tomorrow we finish the climb, only about 1200' left then the nasty decent...3,300' on slate...should in interesting...hoping for no rain or frost like this morning. We started in very cold clear weather today and were all dressed up warmly...good thing as the pack is then lighter until we shed layers. Love the gloves Caitlin...thanks!! 
...and...

The Sleepy and Aging Villages

Each day we wander through three or four villages on our way
We often pause as we go through, but we didn't stop in any today

We are stuck by how quiet each village appears
Quite often there's not anything open, nobody in the bar drinking beers

Each village has a bar and a church, many even have a plaza major
And we will usually see someone in their home completing some sort of chore

But we are stuck by the age of the inhabitants of these small places
Most are elderly, the young seem to have left for other places

These are sleepy places, with little activity 
And we recognize our encounter in each place is of significant brevity

The business brought by the steady stream of pilgrims is helpful for sure
But we still wonder whether these places will be able to endure

2 comments:

  1. Hi Annemarie and Geoff, Kati and I are in Victoria for Thanksgiving. We trust you will be in good company for a wee celebration as well. I am sure you celebrate each day as you finish a leg of your journey. Warm weather and a frostless start to your upcoming mornings. Don

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  2. Good luck tomorrow! See if you can find someone to cook you some turkey ;) Couldn't even find any in Cali, so Seth and I will be enjoying roast chicken and your scalloped potatoes Mom! Love you lots and missing you! e

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