Kind of a rest day. I had my breakfast at 7:00, though I was called at 6:50 by my host. Happens every time. She is very nice though and while the place was dated, she has clearly hosted many Henro over the years and the food was excellent. She serves in the old manner, on her knees. While this may sound different, or take you back to a historical movie set in Japan, everyone is sitting on the ground too. Everyone is at the same elevation as it were. I've seen a number of women serving this way in Japan, but the younger women have generally moved on from this approach. I have to say that it is beautiful to watch, but in today's world perhaps a passing moment. Amazing knees!
The first temple was down the road at T71, Iyadaniji. I thought today was to be a flat stage, and by enlarge it was. That said I met one of my Henro pals coming down and he pointed upwards like he had just survived the worst ordeal! I counted 510 stairs up to the top of the temple complex. The stair master will be a breeze when I return home, and no pack either! 105 stairs in this group.
A very interesting temple set on various levels. It was quiet, probably because most people knew about the stairs and went to a lower temple...T72 is just down the road. Word has it that is used to be called the Eight Province Temple because it was so high that you could literally see 8 provinces. I can believe it. The temple is credited with many miracle cures and there are supposed to be crutches all over, but honestly I never saw any.
I was a little miffed, probably the wrong frame of mind at a temple, when I discovered that I needed to remove my boots to go in and get my stamp. I'm slowly learning that there's a reason for everything here, and to not question. It's a part of my Enlightenment phase that's still lingering even though I've passed on quite recently into Nirvana:) I'm still learning, still a work in progress, but there's hope!
Up top there is a great view.
Then I got to hop all the way back down all those stairs to the bottom where I met my pal Mr. Norita and I had the pleasure of telling him all about the 500 stairs! These things have a way of being passed along amoung Henro. The challenges of the trail. It was his turn to look horrified! I felt much better.
It was a hot crossing to each of the next three temples and I had all the time in the world. So of course I played with my camera, talked to the dogs along the way, viewed new poisonous crawlers and generally made a day of it. These guys are big and very nasty if bitten.
A couple of shots from T72-74
The story about T73, Shusshakaji is quite good. It seems that Kūkai at the age of 7 climbed the local mountain (yup, the temples on top of mountains are his fault) and said, "I want to enter the world of Buddhism and save many people. If it is not possible for this wish to come true, I command that Shaka Nyoria appear. If not, I will throw away my life." He then promptly jumped off a cliff and Shaka and a heavenly being appeared and saved his life. As a result he carved a statue, constructed temple buildings and founded the temple. Talk about an overachiever!
I eventually arrived at T75, Zenfsūji where I'm spending the night, now over 1,000 kms into my journey. Probably more if you add in all the wrong turns! This is a special stop. This is the birth place of Kūkai (posthumously called Kōbō Daishi, 774-835). It is one of the three most important sites in Japan related to Kūkai. I feel a little like I did when I slept at the foot of Ramses at Abu Symbal, Egypt back in 1991. A bit of history.
The grounds are huge with many temples and monuments.
But no place to eat, anywhere. However I had a Snickers bar, dark chocolate, in my bag and a Soyjoy bar, and I feasted on those while I watched the comings and goings after completing my own Temple process. Sunday and the last day of Golden Week. Not much open and no kombini nearby.
I couldn't get into the temple accommodations until 15:00 so I amused myself in a variety of ways before finally getting in. My pal Mr Norita is here tonight too and we've already connected. I don't know what happened to him this afternoon, but I'll question him at dinner. I suspect that he stopped somewhere for lunch knowing what I didn't.
We have an early 17:30 dinner after bathes and then it's lights out at 9. Good thing I have a movie to watch! There's beer here in a vending machine so I'll be able to carbo load as well. In the morning they will wake us at 5:00 for the temple service and then we will be sent to walk through a 90 metre tunnel under the main temple in total darkness. Because I'm a paying guest there is no additional charge for this experience. Hard to believe that there's any charge! Usually it's about $7. It will be an interesting experience and I may report on the outcome tomorrow. Assuming survival, they then feed us breakfast before sending us on our way with a gentle nudge towards T76.
Well, I've about finished my beer, and it's time to take a bath down stairs. I'm hungry, so an early dinner will be welcome.
Dad, took this shot for you. A driving range out into a lake. Balls splashing down everywhere! Another first.
The crusty relates to all my pack gear. That's what it's feeling like now...zippers are tight and my hat is moulded into shape! High humidity.
Addendum: There were only 6 of us at dinner tonight and perhaps there are 12 people here in a place that can handle 100. The father & son from Ottawa who I've heard about for days were there and we had a good talk. It was a real pleasure. This is the third time the father has walked this route. We got to talking about weight loss, what with the diet, climbing, heat and humidity. We commented that none of us have the climbing energy or strength that we did earlier. I'm planning a two full day stop after the next two walking days and will mostly just be eating those days. Grazing. Paul, the father is a Dubliner who moved with his family to Canada in the late '60's. He tells he that there is a good Irish pub at my next break city. What a surprise!
We're all works in progress. Of course you were annoyed to take off your boots--it means monkeying with the gaiters etc. Once those boots go on, they're on! Unless someone tells you to take them off.
ReplyDeleteNot enough lunch. I hope dinner was filling. You don't have much weight to lose, unlike the rest of us. Those days off are sorely needed.
The trees have leafed out here, almost overnight. Time to get the peas and lettuce planted--unless we get another frost, which of course we could still get.
Keep walking (and eating)!
Ken
Thanks for the golf range shot Geoff. I was wondering how they might recover all the balls and whether or not they have a big net under the water that can be drawn in at the end of the day - balls all washed too!! Pretty smart......... I think your pictures today were some of the best temple shots you have taken - even if you had to remove your shoes to get them! Will be interested to hear about your walk through the black tunnel and why? Hope you had a good breakfast afterwards.
ReplyDeleteAll well at this end. While the weather is cool the flowers are out in full bloom - the rhodos are quite spectacular along the water in front of our place and are literally bursting forth progressively day by day. Good timing for your homecoming.
Cheers. Keep an eye on those crawly things ................
Dad
Hi Geoff
ReplyDeleteWifi is terrible here in the Alps so struggled to get your blog today. If we don't reply for a couple of days that is why. We really enjoyed your post today - there's a touch of whimsy that touched us. Humour is a sign of moving closer to enlightenment we always think, though, of course, we have many stages to go!! Glad you can have a bit of a break in the coming week, that will restore you for the final stages which we imagine might be hot. It is an incredible thing you have done already, we're cheering as you close the circuit, walk on and as Ken says, eat up too. Blessings, Neil and Sarah