Yesterday I noticed my pack was getting a little bit heavier. I decided to have a closer look and found a few hitchhikers. each of the places we have stayed in have of course, because it’s England, tea waiting in the room when we arrive. I started collecting these teabags because they’re good quality Twinings and I thought I’d use this with breakfast once walking in France and Switzerland where the tea isn’t typically quite as good. As you can see, I also started to collect hot chocolate packets and good quality cookies too! These are the real heavy items, and I decided to drink one of these before going much further. I think this probably added over a quarter pound to my pack! The last time I found tea in my room on a walk was in Japan in 2018. It’s a good thing we are almost out of England! Of course this ‘collection’ behaviour goes all the way back to my earliest travels when little food treasures were hard to leave behind on a limited student budget. You never knew when they were going to come in handy.
A heat advisory has been issued for England for the coming days ending on Monday with temperatures apparently going into the 30’s. We couldn’t get breakfast until 8 today so we were on the road a little later than we would’ve liked, but the distance was short. We figured out a route to Canterbury following country roads and trails along the Stour River and stayed off the exposed Downs. You’ll see a slightly different route on the above map, but also the river is indicated.
The rest spots were pretty good.
It stated 8 miles to Canterbury on several signs until it finally reduced. Felt like we were walking in place for a while.
We generally stayed in the trees for the first half of the day. Some really beautiful trees here. Much cooler in the trees.
Ansley was out into the open fields as we Croston to send it down to the river valley. I wouldn’t really call it a river, more like a good sized stream.
As the case through most of the UK the streams are highly regulated and controlled by local fishing groups. This one was no different, and it had fencing all the way along the edge of it with signs saying that poachers will be prosecuted. As far as I was concerned there were far too many signs and too many limitations. It was the same with a small lakes we passed. However, this is the way it has been here for many years and it is unlikely to change anytime soon.
We arrived in Chartham and after a quick visit to the library…
…we found St. Mary’s church beckoning to us. Thinking that it might be open and that we might find a stamp for our credential inside we had a look. Sure enough it was open, and more importantly there were two very nice ladies inside who provided the stamp and told us all about the history of this church. If I understood correctly, it seems that the church is very old and has been progressively built and reinvented since the Saxon times.
The interior of the church is beautiful, with a lovely oak beam supported roof.
It boasts one of the top five bronzes in England which is attached to the floor and is kept covered to protect it.
It’s of Sir Robert Septvans c1250-1306.
The stain glass is worth a good look as well. Thanks for your hospitality St. Mary’s! Large panels at both ends of the church.
Back on your way we made good time along the flat River Valley. There was lots of waterfowl on the way as well in both the lakes and water course running along beside us.
As we approach Canterbury I saw this sort of poem written on the side wall under a bridge and I thought it was pretty good so I took a photograph of it to post here.
They walked all the way to the Westgate towers where we crossed over the stream and entered town.
After walking down the main tourist street we turned down a smaller side street and there was the cathedral!
On this journey, reaching Canterbury cathedral represents the end of the North Downs Way and the beginning of the Via Francigena. Endings and beginnings!
We have planned a ‘0’ day in Canterbury and will visit the cathedral and wander the surrounding area. Oh, and I found out why there are duvets on the beds. The woman responsible for setting up the rooms in this hotel told us that she is working as directed but that she only uses a shit in her own home at this time of year when it’s so warm, particularly this year. So the mystery is solved!
I’ll share a little of Canterbury and its surroundings tomorrow on the blog, and the next day is the walk to Dover. Finally!
I've been watching weather reports and am worrying about you walking in the heat. You'd better eat the chocolate now, before it melts! Then you can replace the weight with a carefully chosen library book.
ReplyDeleteHaha! Good plan about the chocolate! I’ll be off early solo. It will be too hot for AM. I’ll need to make good time to beat the heat. She’s going to the laundromat then cruising down in an air conditioned bus later to meet me (rail strike one day). I’ve been looking forward to this stage for 3+ years!
ReplyDeleteLoved the glimpse of the Cathedral at the end of the street - it must have been quite moving to arrive in Canterbury as a pilgrim and to see the sign for the Via Francigena to Rome. Enjoy your rest day. When I was in Canterbury, the size of the Cathedral overwhelmed me - it seemed astonishing to me that people created something like that and a city has lived around it for centuries. Only two more sleeps for us until we fly out to begin the Primitivo. Buen Camino. Sarah and Neil
ReplyDeleteHi Sarah. Very perceptive as always. It was certainly a powerful moment to finally arrive here and to think ahead towards what’s to come. Please let us know when you’ve arrived and we will attempt to connect with you before you set off. Safe travels! Geoff
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