From our walk today...
I remember this stage like it was yesterday. Up early we headed for the edge of Pamplona which was close by and experienced some difficulty finding the trail. We were high on a bridge which cut perpendicular to the trail and looking down and to the west I could see what could only be the Way. A kind Spanish gentleman clearly not wishing to cause us too much embarrassment caught our attention from the other side of the bridge and secretively gestured for us to turn around and cross the road where we found some stairs that carried us down across the hospital grounds and onto the Way. Just one of many acts of kindness we would experience on our journey.
We started off early into a grey damp sort of morning and were joined for a time by a young Brazilian fellow whose company we'd enjoyed several times in the first few days. He was clearly very athletic and was cruising along quite smoothly. Sadly this wan't to last and he abandoned the Camino very early on, however, on this particular morning he provided some cheerful company for a while.
Fortunately the clouds began to break up nicely and the temperature began to rise.
The full moon was close to setting which was quite special with the rainbow. It only lifted our expectations as we watched.
Sadly it looked as though we would be climbing the famous Alto de Perdòn in the clouds as it was completely socked in.
Watching the string of pilgrims in front of us made me feel like we were all on a quest, looking for something. Of course we all were, but nonetheless it was a strong feeling that had started at home and would only grow as the days progressed.
We would see many fields of sunflowers as we crossed northern Spain.
Then a wonderful thing began to happen. The clouds began to lift.
The sun began to come out and we knew this was going to be a very good day!
After a glimpse back towards Pamplona,
...we passed through Zariquiegui which was the last village before stepping onto the climb.
Funny as I sit here reflecting on this stage I recall having read that the climb up the Alto de Perdòn was challenging and the descent even more so. And it is. But today after so many climbs and descents during some 8,000 kms of distance walking it seems in my minds eye that it really wasn't all that bad. However, I remember at the time that this day for some reason was firmly in the back of my mind before we left home, and for some reason I had been concerned about this part of the crossing. I needn't have been.
Clearly we made it to the top where it's as special for the pilgrim as it's intended to be. Something of a reminder of all those who had passed this way before during the last millennium. It didn't help that this character in full traditional regalia was walking up at the same time! The crook and gourd, traditionally filled with wine was also a reminder of the millions who had passed this way. He added a nice element to the moment and generously let me take his photo.
One last look ahead and it was time to begin the descent.
More of a scramble over loose stones than a walking trail. This was taken close to the bottom, but you get the idea. Unfortunately it was during this downward scramble that Annemarie would break one of her toes. It was to impede her progress all the way across the camino. Just ask Ken what it's like to walk with a broken toe!! Better yet...ask Annemarie!
Turned into a very pleasant walk after this, though the temperature continued to climb. One last look back.
Then into the village of Uterga. A sight we were to see often, and one of the joys of walking in Spain.
Too funny! I just experienced and "ah ha!" moment. I came across this photo and realized that I'd quite recently seen this landscape from a slightly different angle.
In 2018 as we approached Puerto La Reina on the Arles Route I recall this almost identical view from a more southerly perspective. This is a photo from that 2018 Camino from the different angle. I believe the hills in the above photo are just behind the hill in the foreground in this 2018 photo.
At this point we arrived in Muruzábal and headed south to a place I'd read about and very much wanter to experience. The Church of Eunate, one of the treasures of the Frances. It was built in 1170 with an imperfect octagonal shape and has 33 arches. In 2013 the road across to the church was very dusty and hot with an awkward approach. However, all that was forgotten when we arrived. We were able to go inside and I later wrote the following;
To visit this place is truly a step back into time...a place not unlike the Cham temples in Vietnam or the small town mosques in eastern Turkey. No one speaks, just a nod will do. Meditative and calming...a place of pure silence, removed from an ever busy world. Only a few peregrinos make the 6 km detour, but as you sit inside this small chamber others enter quietly, take seat, shed their gear and just sit and pause. These small oases of peace are still out there, and we will hopefully find others in our travels.
Last evening during our Zoom conference call we discussed Eunate and our experiences there. Annemarie and I shared with the others the beauty of the approach to Eunate as we walked the Camino Aragones in 2018. A beautiful walk along a tunnel through the trees. A few photos from that experience.
Approaching Eunate.
Tonight we are virtually staying Eunate. In 2013 I'd wanted us to stay in the very basic and rustic albergue, but it wasn't open so we carried on to Puente la Reina. Given this is a virtual camino, we can pretty much stay anywhere we want!
A lovely conference call yesterday with the camino group which we will continue once per week until we finish. In honour of the first call I cooked a tortilla. It certainly would have been more fun sharing it with the group, but in these times we do what we can!
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