Today we took our time before heading out. After all there was a tent to put down and gear to store in our ginormous packs. Besides, with just 10 kms left to saunter into town, it was going to be an extremely short day. It was cloudy this morning as we set off, but there was a promise of sun to come. And as you can see, blue skies were on their way. We noticed that there were far fewer folks out on the trails and streets today. Much more enjoyable walking and my music stayed tucked away. We know just how fortunate we are to live just steps from trails like this. Today was a short reality walk and was intended to match our virtual distance. Tomorrow a longer day.
The virtual camino is now in full swing. We've covered 164 kms to Logroño, remembering that this is our second virtual crossing to this location as we returned to St. Jean Pied de Port to meet up with Ken, Sarah and Neil. Plus there were our training walks. So our feet are again toughened, the distances pass easily and our packs feel like air. We are indeed walking hardened! We are able to eat pretty much what we like and thanks to Annemarie there is never a shortage of dessert each night!
Smiling on this particular day in 2018, our walk to Logroño in 2013 wasn't to be Annemarie's best remembered experience. Annemarie writes in an email to the group yesterday;
Just jumping in here with some reflections from our first Camino. As we've "re-walked" this section from Pamplona to Lagroño this week, many memories have come back to me. As you probably know, this section of the Camino was the darkest for me; I was nauseous most of the time, in pain with my toe, and in increasing discomfort as my allergic reaction to exertion in heat got progressively worse - and there were blisters, too, but those were the least of my concerns. However, this is also the section where I met all of you and a number of other pilgrims who I remember fondly. More than the scenery, I remember these people and the conversations we had that made walking bearable for me at that time.
When we walked the section from Punta La Reina to Logroño in 2018, some of the scenery was familiar but a lot of it wasn't. In Punta La Reina, for instance, we stayed at the same hotel both times. It was a perfectly fine place to stay, but I still have trouble recalling what it looked like. Perhaps because we never met anyone there who we connected with. Conversely, the hostel in Los Arcos is memorable from both visits - the first time because they were so welcoming and did our laundry for free, and the second time because of how "done" they were at the end of the season...also Los Arcos itself facilitates great social contact with the restaurants in the square. Both times we had some lovely visits with people we had formed a connection with. And one more reflection...I think I made a mistake in re-visiting an area where I had experienced a lot of difficulty. Instead or replacing those memories, on the second visit they came flooding back.The second time through was so much lighter and easier, but is coloured by memories of the first time. Maybe sometimes it's best to leave difficult times in the past.
However the walk in was quite scenic as I recall.
Viana shows itself.
I'm never quite sure if I'm pleased to see these distance markers along the way, often posted by locals. Usually they seem to be incorrect, but some of them look quite nice.
A little faded in 2018, but still an iconic tag along the camino.
There's a very nice pine forest just before reaching Logroño that we passed through then a walk way overpass.
Finally!!
The city takes a while to get to then quite suddenly it's right in your face.
The first of the iconic route markers. I remember them well, guiding us/me out of the city in the dark both times.
Entering town in 2018.
The bridge over the Rio Ebro is a great way to enter the city on foot. There is a pilgrim welcome on this end of the bridge where we picked up a small map and other general information.
We liked the feel of the city immediately. Beautiful car free walking streets with small stores, bars, restaurants and other small stores like pharmacies.
First things first!!
In 2013 we arrived in time for the annual wine festival which was lots of fun!
The local wineries were each parading through town both days we stayed complete with their own band.
I found the interior of the cathedral was a bit overdone and unusually not that interesting, but I fondly remember the glass work. I might have been distracted by how Annemarie was feeling, the wine, or both!
Is she sticking her tongue out at me?
The night time tapas scene was wonderful during both visits. The tapas were excellent and the Rioja wines brilliant!
We had come to know these two women, Sue and Nicky from South Africa over the previous few days, but Nicky on the left had an injury and they left the camino here. Nice folks.
That same day we bumped into two other Aussie guys. It was while in the pharmacy whenAnnemarie was having a couple of prescriptions filled. These two guys were looking at the gear available to help with a foot injury. Being my usual open, helpful self, I suggested that they look at a certain item. The one with the injury looked at me a bit suspiciously and the other laughed and was instantly quite friendly. These two characters were Dave and Peter who we would have a number of misadventures with the following 7-10 days. Fortunately they have become very good friends and we were wonderfully hosted during our 2014 visit. Dave and Denise have come our way and Peter and Kath were to have visited this fall before the bottom fell out of our world and any thoughts of travel have sadly since been moved to the back burner. Maybe next year?
Having also reflected on our 2013 visit to Logroño I have somewhat different memories which of course serves to show the condition Annemarie was in. After being out with our South African friends we returned to our pension where Annemarie had a bad allergic reaction (Costanza, the same thing that happened walking across Sicily in 2018). She wouldn't go to the hospital and while she slept I sat up all night keeping an eye on her. With the help of our lovely host, we took a taxi to the hospital the next day where she was more correctly assessed. A true pilgrim experience as we were again not charged by the hospital. As we tried to find our way back into town a fellow I'd chatted with in the waiting room drove up and told us that he would be our taxi. We all went to lunch where we met his girlfriend and they dropped us off at our hostel afterwards. Very special memory. Annemarie was by this time feeling better...drug induced wellness!
Again, the Camino provides. If Annemarie hadn't taken ill then we would never have taken an unplanned zero day and then we may well have not met Peter and Dave. Coincidence? Hmmmm, I wonder?
In 2018 we had a much less dramatic visit to Logroño. This is where Annemarie's Camino For Alzheimer's Awareness came to an end, some 900 kms from where we began. She found her way to Holland to visit with family while the next morning I walked out in the dark alone to continue onwards towards Santiago. Little did I know then what lay ahead, though I thought I did.
Tonight another video call with our amigos about the next stages of the virtual camino. Looking forward to that! I guess we are all a little starved for social connections.
Buen Camino!
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