Wednesday, April 22, 2020

Navarrete - Nájera, 17 kms

Ok, Who Let The Rain Come Back?

After basically no rain during the first 3 weeks of April, the rain gods finally got their way. It’s rained all day and I took a camino break and returned to my painting project this morning. I also fit in a basement exercise session, and in about 2 hours my online yoga class begins. I think I’ll get  enough exercise today, and while likely no walking today, we have a walking sinking fund in place for just such situations. Our virtual Camino yesterday was just 13 kms, but we actually walked 20 kms, and have been doing this for the past 5 weeks. So I’ll just take a few kilometres from the rainy day account and get on with my post! From yesterday;

Yup, also drawing on my photo bank today in order to get in the blogging mood.

The route today is basically split in half with the up hill portion starting us off followed logically by the down hill part as we climb over the Alto de San Alton. Not a particularly difficult undertaking.

The best part of the day is walking through the many vineyards...

...as far as the eye can see in all directions...

...which of course means that there is usually some pilgrim shrinkage. I used to worry about sampling the grapes (seriously, we'd only take a couple), but I've had farmers actually give me handfuls at a time as they tell me that there are actually more grapes than they can use. In Japan this would be considered Henro ossetti, and is considered a gift to the passing pilgrims. We've traveled far and learned much since our first camino in 2013.

In other words, you don't have to invite me twice!

Or Annemarie for that matter. Clearly the Prednazone and painkillers were working!

Late season in 2018 there were signs of more than a few pilgrims passing by here that year and in prior years.

No livestock in sight, but there were indicators.





Ventosa showed up on our horizon. We were walking with a couple of companionable Spaniards.



And still the grape fields continued all day as we walked past.







Almost over the top of the hill and down the other side towards our destination for the night.





Easy pickings, but stuff happens to ones body if too many of these are consumed and believe me, you don't want that happening while out on the trail!!

A beautiful poem written in Spanish and German. I've posted a translation on both the 2013 and 2018 blogs if you're interested.

And then we arrived in...



In 2013 Ken wrote this in his journal, and has graciously shared this with us;

Wiped after 30 km from Logroño in heat and humidity. Longest day since Roncesvalles.  Feel good, though. Before I put down my pack and took off my boots, I felt like I could do another 10 km--an illusion but a happy one. Same landscape of hills and grapes as yesterday; few wheat fields, no cattle or sheep. So quiet: just wind, distant traffic, feet crunching on gravel.

A fair assessment.

A town in some cases literally built into the prominent red cliffs on the west side of town.

It really is situated in a beautiful setting and we enjoyed our visit in 2013. In 2018 the weather was changing and as it was late season less was open.



The church is really quite unique with portions of it built right into the cliff.









In 2018 I walked around the streets in seemingly endless circles waiting for a bar that served food to open so that I could have a meal. I was ravenous and window shopping didn't help very much!



Finally!

I noticed the weather I posted on my original posts. In 2013 it was a warm day at 29 and in 2018 the day started at 6 and warmed to 15 degrees while walking.

Hopefully the rains will pass by tonight and we can start the next leg. 15 klicks will take us to Ciriñuela. I wonder what's there? I'd be happy to miss out on painting again tomorrow, but I'd rather not put on my wet gear: )

Buen Camino!






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