Saturday, April 29, 2017

Stage 29: Kuma - Matsuyama City, T46-51, 33 kms, Cloud then Sun, breezy, 24

Bits & Pieces From The Road

A good day walking on my own, enjoying the space and all that I saw and those I encountered! I'm sitting here writing this while enjoying a Kirin beer my pal David requested that I drink on his behalf. A rough assignment! Thanks David!!
 
I visited 6 temples today, far too many to put into one post. So I thought that I'd reference a few hilites from the day given that it's 6pm and I still need to find some dinner. It takes quite a bit of time to walk this far and add in so many temple visits. Each visit about 25 minutes. 

The day started with a long climb out of Kuma and up through Misaka-tōge Pass. The view back before heading up on the climb to the pass. Kuma is already way out of sight as I'm already about 8 kms up the road..
 
Reaching the summit I found this picture and it shows something of what things must have looked like from here during an earlier time. This is looking ahead.
 
And, my view.
 
It was a steep descent which took time as I was not wanting an injury at this late stage. It was a long way to the bottom and the trail was beautiful once past the steep section.
 
Just back from a spaghetti and meat sauce dinner. I decided that I'd better eat first. Good decision as the time can get away from me and I'm in a hotel tonight, so no host to provide me with my meals. Any way, back to my journal.

I walked through a small village on the way down and an older woman invited me in for tea. Her son was there and they were very hospitable to this tired Henro.  
 
It was just what I needed. It's difficult to explain what the kindness of these wonderful Shikoku folks means during the day to we Henro. Yesterday it was a woman providing us with tea at her shop to wash down the cakes Kristine found us, and later a young woman stopped her car just to give us a few hard candies. It's not usually the osettai, it's the gesture. It gives you a much needed lift and sometimes it can make your eyes water a little. Simple acts of kindness.

Looking back up the pass.
 
I took this photo to show where I'm located...the red section today. Distance wise I'm about 2/3's of the way around.
 
I received two rather significant osettai today. The first was presented to me at Temple 46, Jōruriji by the woman who painted my stamp. We spoke for a time as it was very quiet, and she asked me a number of questions in her halting English. I had the feeling that she wasn't in the habit of passing out this osettai too often. I felt very honoured that she chose to share this with me. Perhaps it helped when I showed her my thinning hair:). Annemarie, one of my wishs fulfilled! 
 
If that wasn't enough for the day, something that Annemarie and I discussed a couple of times finally happened. A vending machine operator gave me a drink from the machine he was refilling. Wow! 
 
A few photos from my temple visits. I have a whole collection of these fellas. 
 

 
 

 
 

 

 

 
 
 Now a couple of others.
 

 
I walked to the tram station to save myself another 6 kms of walking to get off the route and to my hotel. I asked a question of a young guy out with his wife and two small children. Turns out he had some English and they took me with them and onto the tram and confirmed my station which was after their own. We chatted and at the end, he shook my hand and wished me a safe Henro. Tram with a view from my 7th floor room. Feels like a palace after some of the places I've stayed lately. 
 
Arriving at my hotel I found a large wedding in process. I checked in and climbed wearily onto the elevator and was joined by about 10 beautiful women of all ages. I made some comment to that affect out loud and there were many giggles, then smiles followed by a confirmation that they were at the wedding. Many spoke good English. I joked about my shabby appearance, unshaved for a week, no doubt salt stained and smelling from the road, but they were all very supportive of what I was attempting. Again, just the right response. A hot shower, a close shave and clothes well washed and hanging to dry and I was feeling pretty good again.

A shorter day planned tomorrow without a pack. Then I'll return here by train early so that I can have some time to wander this city. There are things worth visiting in Matsuyama. One of the best castles in Japan and a haiku museum no less. The oldest onsen in Japan is here too, but with Golden Week starting, I've been told that the lineup will be at least 2-3 hours. I don't have the stamina for that.  The view of the castle from my room.
 
 
All in all, a great day! Looks like much easier Coast walking the next three days, more or less. Back into the mountains in a big way after that this Wednesday. So almost like a rest day tomorrow:)

Interesting business?
 

4 comments:

  1. Those gifts--I'm not surprised they make you emotional. It's such an unexpected gesture when strangers go out of their way to show that sort of kindness. One of the big moments during my walk in the Haldimand Tract was when the elders gave me little gifts--sweetgrass, beadwork, books. I never expected that kind of generosity.

    You're having a wonderful experience, it's clear. Enjoy your day of pack-free walking!

    Ken

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  2. Good walk today Geoff. While it may have been tough climbing, the scenery and vistas were splendid and I am sure were well worth the effort. You were doing so well with all your "Henro" gifts that for a moment I thought you were going to tell us that you were invited to the wedding dinner as a special guest but I guess that would have been a little too much to expect!!! Enjoy the sea side walk tomorrow.

    Today is "Opening Day" at RVYC - another boating year is about to get underway in Victoria.

    Cheers

    Dad

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  3. Hi Geoff. Yes - it is so touching to hear about those gestures of kindness and hospitality you're receiving - it makes you realise what's possible among us. The old woman who gave you tea looked like she appreciated the connection too - so no doubt it works both ways. I enjoyed a walk around our lake yesterday, and we have Sarah's aunts from Western Australia coming for breakfast this morning. The autumn here continues to be glorious and to remind us of our autumn walking in France last year. Hope today's shorter, lighter day gives you some recovery space and that the Golden Week good mood sweeps you up! Not sure about a Boot War, but am waiting for Ken to weigh in!! Walk on... Neil and Sarah

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    1. I felt like we were overhearing a conversation that had been happening between you guys for a long time. . . .

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