Tuesday, April 11, 2017

Stage 12: Tōnohama - Yalu, 27 kms, rain then cloud then sun, 19

A Cement Wall

We were up early as usual and after breakfast on the trail by 7:30, a bit later than usual because it was still raining and you know, the wind was blowing strongly, and bed sounded more appealing. However, your intrepid Henro finally launched. Or were we pushed our by our host? In any event we eventually found ourselves on the side of good old 55 in the rain. Did I say the wind was also blowing strongly? The first sign that things weren't looking too good showed up fairly soon...waves over cars, What about the poor Henro? 

Some how we managed to push forward, all the while watching for the tsunami like waves! Never did see one. What we did find was a very nice bike path to walk on today...almost all day. It was paved like everything else here, but it ran parallel to 55, not along side it. This provided an opportunity to look around a bit instead of watching for big trucks and even bigger puddles. At one point we chased a cat out of a shelter (not really, it just ran for it when it saw my big red poncho) and we took a breather and a couple of photos.
 
 
I've commented a little about the seawalls that run along the coast, but it became all the more evident today. 
 
It was about this time that we began to see how coastal Japan has been built into a fortress from the sea. Perhaps a little ahead of the rest of the planet in their preparations for global warming. At least they appear to believe in it here as opposed to the nonsense we hear from certain world politicians no others. Guess you know where I stand on this subject. 
The amount of concrete required to build this, not to mention the cost and the numbers of workers. Astonishing!
 
The rain began to let up and we could sense a weather change wasn't too far off. Hope was in the air:) 
We found the real start of the bike path, but even though the arrows pointed us forward, we noticed some Japanese Henro instead turned right and walked the dreaded 55. True the signage wasn't too welcoming, but I couldn't read any of it, so onwards we walked:) 
 
The rain finally stopped and I took Caesar off and let it hang on my pack to dry. The path lead us into this beautiful Sakura display.
 
And then we met this elegant lady who fed us the sweetest tomatoes from her garden and invited us in to see her origami shop. 
 
 
 
We passed those who had left earlier, some with their traditional Henro hats. We haven't seen a foreign Henro in quite a while now. Seems more authentic  this way. Japanese Henro only each night now, very curious as to why we are here. Brilliant! 
 
Eventually we found our resting place for the night. A place I'd again read about somewhere and I added it into my guide during the winter. Paid off as it's simple, but nice and we have a stunning view from our window! Though the ground shakes from time to time when a huge wave hits the breakwall hard. Our view tonight from our room.
 
Laundry done, bath finished and our hostess actually drove us to a store to buy our lunch. Very nice! The meals here are reputed to be very good and I'll report back about this. We have this minshuku to ourselves tonight. What a treat. It's off the main route and we had to walk a way to find it.

Lastly, although her foot is very painful tonight, Annemarie wrote me a poem as she watched me struggle both with this app and to stay awake! She said I could share it, and it's fitting some days, like today. So I will. Tomorrow we arrive at Kochi, a city the size of where we live at home. We plan to stay there two nights, walking out from there the second day as there are several temples around the city. Then onwards after that. We passed through 300 kilometres today. I'm a quarter of the way. I wonder sometimes as I walk along, and my mind wonders...what lays ahead?

 The Power of the Blog

He walks, looking through the eyes of those who aren't here
He sees things I don't necessarily see...far and near

The camera lens ever ready, to capture a moment
His walk is a series of moments, not an event

His mind plays with captions, headings and lessons
To capture for himself and to share with those he loves, he intends

The entry yet to be written keeps him present
Choosing what to him and his audience is most relevant

His art with the camera illustrates his internal conversation
Sometimes even to him it's a revelation

A labour of love, he devotes himself each day
Savouring the precious moments that have come his way

It is his journal, his personal record
On occasion it simply prevents him from being bored

It is also his companion when he walks alone
And he is committed to it even when weary to the bone

The technology sometime challenges, causing frustration 
But he hangs in there, eventually overcoming the aggravation

While it keeps him present it also keeps him close to home
And if it were published in print it would be quite a tome

 

7 comments:

  1. You've been immortalized in poetry now, Geoff! I bet that was unexpected.

    Another great day of walking. I like the henro with the traditional hats, although I wouldn't care to wear one--like you say, heavy and awkward. But also picturesque.

    Too bad the cat ran away. You could've shared the bus shelter with it. A photo opportunity missed!

    Have a dry day today! With no waves sweeping henro out to sea.

    Ken

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    1. Totally unexpected. You'd love the walking here. It is quite special, though I could do with a few nice dirt trails from time to time. The hard road walking all day is a bit hard on the shock absorbers!

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  2. A brave effort with blisters, hard road, howling wind and more rain. Glad to hear the weather is lifting. It is fascinating to see something of the Japanese relationship to the sea, both a source of life and threat. Your photo of your resting place looks so similar to others you have posted, including last nights one - there must be a series of these little bays all the way along this section of the way. Does Annemarie finish up in Kochi? Blog on bro!!

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    1. Hey Neil, yes there are these little bays from time to time, but so much cement that it's just hard to really grasp.

      Yup, Annemarie is just about done. Prone to blisters and with high quality shoes that let her down and soaked up water like a sponge, her one foot is not very happy. She has done great without much complaining, because a Henro must not complain...says so in the Henro commandments if you can believe it. So we call things observations, not complaints!

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  3. A good Blog Geoff - lots of feeling and humor to temper the tough spots. Not always fun to hike along in the rain and keep everything in perspective - like maybe "am I having fun yet" - or maybe "whose idea was this anyway - but you will prevail and tomorrow will be sunny !!!! I am very impressed with the manner in which Japan has fortified the shoreline and created much usable and needed land along the entire coastal area.

    And Annemarie, I must say that your poem was very well thought out in painting a picture of the effort that Geoff makes each day to highlight a progression of events that tell the story of the "happenings" of the day and the delight of arriving at your destination and the final splash into a hot bath to heal the wounds and cleanse the thought process. Wonderful. Well done.

    Happy trails tomorrow.

    Dad

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    1. Hi Dad. Today was welcomed sun! The rain was ok, nothing that would cause too much grief, but walking in the sun just can't be beat. I am now the owner of a pair of super light, high quality Gortex rain pants that fold down to nothing! Such a pleasure to have them with me from here on in. Of course, now that I have them it won't rain again!

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  4. I'm a few blogs behind but am really enjoying the photos and your words and poems. I really loved the colorful origami and the blossoms at the end. Keep trucking! :)

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