Thursday, June 4, 2020

Sarria - Portomarin, 24 kms

Hey! What's Up With The 100 Kilometre Mojone?

Yesterday we were up and away a little later for our walk. Tuesday had been wet and cool, so we decided to wait for things to warm up and it turned out to be a very good decision.

But first the sunset last night.

A few sunsets lately have looked like they would develop into something interesting, but the next steps never happened. Last night delivered.

The forest trails were really bright and sun dappled.



Just a sweet day to be outside.



Arriving at the beach we sat on a bench and took some time to enjoy the views and to watch container ships find their way out to the open Pacific. A good spot to linger.

On the bench we found a camera in a nice case that someone had left behind. I decided to have a look at the camera to see if there was any identifying information. There wasn't. I then looked at the photos on the SD card and there were no selfies or people photos that might have helped find the owner. We knew that if we left it there one of three things would likely happen; theft, owner returns or the camera sits out all night and rain ruins it. After waiting for almost a half hour we reluctantly took it with us. As we walked away we decided to walking over to one of our local businesses (a cafe/deli) where we know the owner quite well. He agreed to give us paper, a pen and some tape so that we could leave a message on the bench should the owner return. We also left the camera with our friend hoping the owner would find our message and walk the short distance to identify and collect said camera. On returning to the bench to stick our 'camera lost' note on the bench, others in the area told us that no one had shown up in search of the camera while we'd been gone. At home we contacted the parks people and advised them just in case they were contacted. Feeling like we'd done all we could, we continued along towards home.


Yesterday in response to the Sarria street photo I'd posted, Neil sent me an email sharing a memory;

I remember those last three kms into Sarria my feet were absolutely killing me. That photo of the street with the Italian restaurant brings it back. As I recall that restaurant wasn't open that night and I was disappointed  - I was ready for a pizza!!

By chance I looked at the blog post from that October day in 2013 and here's what I wrote;

We enjoyed a pleasant evening last night as we walked up to the old town in the rain where we found a nice warm, dry Italian restaurant! Nice to have a change from the menu del dia, and the food was very good. We connected with two older acquaintances in the restaurant, who had been suffering some weeks ago with bad ankle and knee injuries...nice to see them moving along well again. We got to talking, as one does, and we spoke about how far to walk the next day. There is a guide book written by a Brit named Brierley, whose book is sort of considered the only Camino walking guide in some circles. You either like it or, well...you hate it. Mine was sitting in the recycling bin at home when I last saw it! Too heavy to carry. Anyway, this book takes its readers through various preselected stages a page at a time with the oddest maps. When we asked how far they were walking today, the reply was, "to the end of the next page...then I stop". I think there is a message in there...I'll be thinking about that tomorrow;)

So Neil, we did get into the Italian restaurant (I was pretty sure we had) and the food was very good! Annemarie and I were discussing that yesterday. We happily remember the great story about 'walking to the end of the map' and we've shared it with others on several occasions since, but I'd forgotten exactly where it occurred. A wonderful memory!

Out on the Spanish Camino, it was getting late in the year, both times, and the weather was reflecting this. We set off from Sarria early because of the higher numbers of pilgrims and were fortunate to catch a semblance of a sunrise.

There would be good walking trails on this day with some very typical Galician scenery.





In 2013 we had a mixed weather day; a poncho on, poncho off kind of a day...and lots of hunters.





Arriving at the 100 km marker in 2013. An exciting moment!

In 2018 not only was the marker on the opposite side of the road in a completely different location, it was a different marker! I didn't realize that things had changed until I looked at the various photos today. I wonder what happened to the original marker?

I was was still feeling pretty fresh at this point in 2013 about 700 kms along. I guess all the training paid off. Fortunately not a single injury or issue.

Annemarie was feeling pretty good too, still walking in sandals.

In 2018 I was looking a bit road weary, 1400 kms along the trail...and 5 years older I might add: ) Still loving the moment though!



Being that it was Saturday and the fall, the hunters were out in force looking for wild boar, and as we walked there were many gun shots to the left and right of us. One of the reasons we left our colourful ponchos on our packs that day in full view. Since then we have walked past numerous hunters of all types in blinds beside the trail and up high in the trees. It's part of the walking landscape in Europe, particularly on weekends.

This small shrine was touching, particularly the photos.












From my 2013 blog post;
...this town was moved up from the valley bottom in the 1950's essentially stone by stone to get it away from the river. Appears to be flowing at low volumes presently, but suspect that the spring runoff is more significant and I would be surprised, based on a bit of evidence if it is also regulated. If you look closely at the bridge you will notice that it's very high up and the railing is wide open...particularly if you aren't a heights fan. I'm not, so walked with the traffic along the road. I might have managed it as heights and I get along much better than we used to, but decided part way along to play with the cars instead. Most of the drivers played nicely too. Annemarie wants you to know that she walked on the sideway, but isn't to happy that I didn't get a photo.

In 2018 I crossed much more comfortably. These next photos of the bridge are from 2013 because it was getting towards twilight when I arrived in 2018.





Looking back across the bridge.
The ancient Roman bridge below, covered in water for much of the year and shows again each fall after the water has been released through the hot summer for irrigation and other downstream uses. Before leaving home in 2018, using Google Earth I figured out how to get down to the Roman bridge to walk across it. I'd fully intended to do so, but when my albergue accommodation was closed prior to reach in here and I had to press on to Portomarin I didn't have any desire to add an additional 3 kms to the 43 kms I'd already walked that day. I still had to find a place to sleep, shower, write the Alzheimer's Awareness blog, wash my clothes and find a meal before I could finally get some sleep.

2018.

The sunset had happened by the time I crossed the bridge in 2018. It was mid November and of course the sun departs early.



Ken's sage thoughts;
Portomarin:

Rain today but discovered the way to deal with the sweaty raincoat is to wear very little with it--T-shirt and shorts. Cold when taking breaks, but not overheating when walking.
Two carajillos today because of the cold rain. Heard Kathy sing in a church that was open--beautiful voice with a big range. Lovely when she sings music from medieval repertoire--too pure for vernacular American music. 
So, grateful for all of that, for the sun coming out later in the afternoon, which mostly dried Big Green (not in the sleeves, but everywhere else), for beating the short rain squall by 20 minutes, for the existence of a bank machine here. Also for the sky now, blue and cloudless (what I can see from the bar)
Possible detour tomorrow to see frescos at monastery--worthwhile if the weather is fine. Might mean shifting schedule to stay in Melide for pulpo next night--not a bad plan.
The days aren’t too long but they feel long. I need a shower--the cortisone cream makes me smell and it isn’t stopping the advancing rash and blisters.

Ken, the young woman to our right was Kathy, correct? She was very quiet when I invited her to join us for a meal one evening. I had no idea she was a vocalist. That would have been special to hear her sing like you did.

And lastly, a special shout out to our mate Peter (of 2013 Camino fame!) who is languishing in isolation in a Melbourne hospital with a nasty infection in his hand. When I spoke with him last night he was just preparing for an operation that would hopefully remove the worst of the core infection. Dave, given his isolation room is very close to the front door, it might be an idea to smuggle in a good bottle of vino tino!! I'd do it, but we aren't allowed to fly yet. Hope you're feeling yourself soon mate! Waiting to hear your surgical outcome, and we will soon connect with Kath. No doubt you kept them laughing until the very moment you passed out from the gas!

Buen Camino!

No comments:

Post a Comment