Knowing the weather forecast was predicting rain later today we headed off to walk fairly early this morning. Again the weather folks had it a bit incorrect. The rain started to fall steadily after we'd been underway for about an hour. While I've walked in the rain countless times, most know that I prefer to walk in the warm sun with all the colours lit up. Deep down I know that I won't melt (right?), but I also know that if it's raining then there's a higher probability that I'll find some reason to not step out that door. Today, however, we were well underway when the rain began and I guess I mumbled something because I heard Annemarie reminding me that I wouldn't melt. Ya I get it, but you know, the sun thing is so much better. I'm not really a wuss about these things because once I'm out walking it doesn't really matter what the weather does. That said, I do really prefer walking in the sun.
We were quite alone when we came upon a Mallard also alone. These ducks mate for life, so we concluded that something unfortunate must have happened. He was hovering so quietly. Apparently asleep with his head tucked back in that special way only a duck can manage. He was so still, though now I can see that his left eye was open.
I walked around to the right to get a better look, expecting him to dash off at any moment before I could get there. But he didn't. He just stayed perfectly still, eyes closed. Then he was watching me. I thanked him for providing me with the opportunity to take a series of reflective images and then I quietly retraced my steps and caught up to Annemarie.
On Sunday evening, Monday noon in Oz, we had our next Zoom call. We discussed the whole George Floyd situation in America and the violent fallout. Like many others, we wondered at the appalling lack of leadership and empathy emanating from Washington during this critical time.
My opinion; morally bankrupt leadership far beyond capable of bringing together a divided country in its time of need. From an outsider's perspective there is a glimmer of hope as the polls indicate that the manufacturer of this disastrous situation is trailing badly as a result of his botched handling of the pandemic and also of George Floyd's death. I've read that over the past 60 years no incumbent president has ever recovered when trailing so badly this close to an election. I'll get off my soap box now.
We also discussed at length the treatment of the indigenous peoples in our two counties. Not a pretty picture, but we all seemed to agree that education and awareness seems to be improving. It's been a long road.
It was a busy week with much to discuss among close friends. Somehow we also managed to discuss the Camino! Seems that in 2013 Neil and Sarah transited the shorter northern route to Sarria. They must have been just a day ahead of the three of us.
Yesterday I went for a long bike ride with my pal Dennis. We enjoyed a much better weather day with sun and everything! These two views are from on top of an old glacial esker looking west. We climbed quite a few hills today, perhaps more than Dennis anticipated when he planned our route: ) It was a lovely change from walking and I'm hopping that we will find a different route next week to explore.
Much of the riding was along rural back roads. We managed to stop for photos just a couple of times. The clock was running as was the testosterone!
Walking is ever changing these days. I've never seen this sign on the camino!
Back on the virtual camino, after an overwhelmingly delicious breakfast we set off from our monastery at first light. Ken was delighted to find that his cell was warm and dry complete with a bed turndown service; )
The Samos route to Sarria is particularly hilly. We would comment on this all the way to Sarria, and the 16 kms felt more like 20+ kms. I remember us looking at our map and thinking that the distance figures couldn't possibly be right. This was one of the things I considered in 2018 when I decided to walk the northern way.
Lot's of unsmiling early morning faces. But very cool horns!
The fall chestnut season with the multi spiked husks all over the ground are a special memory of walking in Spain.
Small hamlets and tiny churches are scattered along the trail. Clearly this area is much more prosperous than most of the rest of the areas along the Camino Frances. What you see on the north coast of Spain, the Camino del Norte is even more so.
Trails that would allow your mind and eyes to wander were ever present. By now you've likely learned a little about the practice of walking meditation or alternately, just letting your mind go where it will. A normal occurrence, particularly when walking solo.
The slate roofs are always a treat and so unique in hilly, damp Galicia. I particularly like the interlocking crown tiles.
Ken cozying up to the locals. One of my favourite photos of Ken.
Yup, I was there too. Captured in one of Annemarie's rare photos. She takes a few more photos as we walk and travel these days.
The road just seemed to go on forever. We were like little kids on a long road trip, "are we there yet?"
However, as long as it seemed to be, I remember it as a beautiful route.
Yet another hill to climb.
Looking back before climbing the next hill.
One of the many small churches.
Very simple inside. Not sure why the chairs were facing away from the alter?
Almost into Sarria.
And then we arrived. We split up to find our accommodations and I can't remember if we got back together to have dinner. Annemarie will remember but she's upstairs in her study on a call. Update: We went out to eat alone. Other pilgrims in the restaurant, but no Ken.
Ken's recollections of that day;
Sarria:
Last leg of the trip to Santiago--100 km left, five “easy” days or four hard ones. For me, “easy” ones aren’t so easy now--I think I’m getting tired.
Grateful for many things today. For finding my way in the dark this morning after getting lost at San Cristobal do Real. For the beautiful weather and for arriving well before the rain started. For the bed, a cold beer, a bowl of caldo Gallego, and a glass of vino tinto when I was out of gas. For going along with Geoff and not eating a sandwich at the side of the road. For the companionship on the way. For being here. For the beautiful walk through the oak forest, which was so much longer than I’d expected, which both prolonged the pleasure and wore me out.
Oddly I took no photos of Sarria in 2013. Perhaps we were too tired or maybe I just wasn't that fascinated to see all the additional pilgrims who had arrived here, preparing to start their pilgrimage and walk only the remaining100 kms into Santiago. I think at that time I was probably wondering to myself the point of just walking the last 100 kms, clogging the trails and filling the accommodations. I've learned a lot since then.
I have just these two photos of Sarria as I passed through in 2018. It was spooky to not see other pilgrims here after the numbers in 2013. However, it was late in the walking season and I arrived here mid-morning. I would catch up to and pass many new pilgrims that day as I continued onwards to Portomarin, but never any where close to the numbers we saw in 2013. I recall being surprised when when I discovered that many of the new pilgrims were my age or older, whereas prior to Sarria I had been the old guy much of the way after Annemarie had left from Logroño.
Looking back into town. In 2013 this was a pretty busy place. In 2018, just a couple of locals walking along the main street.
Tomorrow we will pass by the special 100 km marker!
Buen Camino!
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