Stage 6: San Giovanni - Sutera, 21 kms, Hot, +30.

A Following Wind

This morning we skipped the breakfast offered at our accommodation because it wasn't served until after 8, and frankly it wouldn't have been very nutritious. So we went to a pasticerria for breakfast so that we could at least pick out something we liked. Check out Annemarie's coffee. A very happy lady! See Rob, there is coffee on this walk, but you have to find it before leaving town.

Hey Erin. Check out this tea pot. Warms your cup and everything!

We headed out of town and of course we almost immediately experienced problems as the organizers of the route have not seen fit, of perhaps have been unable to put any route markers through the towns or cities. I understand that they have the street tiles and are waiting for funding from the towns to install them, but in the meantime simple red and white markers would do very nicely. Even a walker like Constanza who reads and speaks the language has experienced many frustrations. 

I chatted with a business owner who turned us around, back up a hill, and later I flagged down a car for further hints. 

A farmer high up in a tractor eventually confirmed that we were in route so we relaxed and let the fun begin. The landscapes here are very dramatic and I repeatedly found myself say this...usually to myself. 

We split up today as we did yesterday with Annemarie and I on our own, but we checked in throughout the stage. We had some interesting interactions with locals, which is one of the best parts of these rural walks. Our first was with a farmer who offered us handfuls of unshelled Lima beans. So there we were walking along munching away! I guess even the locals know how unfilling the local breakfasts are for the walkers:). Our next interaction was with a sheep herder who had worked a few years inthe UK and had a little English. Seemed like a nice guy with four dogs that were under very good control, though they were pretty defensive as we approached. However, we are quite use to this response and know that the shepards always have complete control.

Up until this time the route had been pretty kind to us, but of course we knew that wouldn't continue and that a climb was well overdue:) Almost on cue we began the climb of the day, but it offered great views and even a small town along the way where Annemarie was able to find herself some refreshment. 

Part way up while I waited for Annemarie, I tried my limited Italian on an old fellow who was sitting in his car smoking. His response wasn't really too positive and a few steps later I began to wonder if anyone in these parts was very welcoming. The 'signs' suggested otherwise (sorry).

It was on the way up to the small town of Acquaviva that we bumped into our next character. This fellow said that he was from Sicilia, but his parents raised him in the UK and he prefers to speak English...with a heavy accent. Very entertaining, and he sent some beans for us along with Constanza when she passed by his farm. By the way, this water was potable and very refreshing. I forgot my bandana and am missing being able to wet it and tie around my neck. Usually we carry industrially bottled water in our hydration systems as this had been recommended, though we haven't felt the need to do this on our other walks. Everywhere is a bit different, and sorry for adding new plastic into the system. We are really careful about this.

A stop for a quick refreshment at the town, and on our way again as we tried to figure out how to get out of this town.

We passed by the resident watch dog, and without moving he just growled at me when I tried to congratulate him for not barking! 

We summited the first climb and the views were, dramatic?

It was getting hot by now as we approached the noon hour. There has been a shift in the weather and it was very warm overnight. We had an email from Cory and Jim in Greece and they said that it was well into the 30s there and we've since learned that we can now expect higher temps for the foreseeable future. To the north temperatures are falling, but we are tied to the eastern heat for now. Unfortunately this doesn't suit Annemarie and she suffered today, but gamely made it across the stage. We were gratefully assisted by a following wind. Not one that you'd happily walk into, but one that cooled us from time to time without getting in the way. More sheep and again the four big dogs were under good control.

A really nice walk. I took a selfie as Annemarie wasn't taking much in the way of photos today. The new 30 litre pack and boots are working great with the boots pretty much broken in now. AND I had new socks! They felt great for at least the first half hour. I'll tuck the boots away after this walk and they will be all ready for our fall Camino For Alzheimer's Awareness starting Sept 21st. How's that for a plug? My blog, my rules:)

Creeping closer, but still 10 kms to walk and it was getting a bit warm. Annemarie was beginning to use words that she only uses when things aren't going well! I do what I can to help, but we both know that it comes down to the individual. I wisely plug in my music and follow along behind taking photos and watching for stray dogs. Annemarie, head down continues onward. It is getting warmer, but the tail wind is wonderful!

It felt like walking through Osoyoos in the middle of summer! 

Just the ridge walk to complete now, and then the climb around the back of the lava plug and into town. So excited for a cool drink in the shade at the first bar!





We arrive in town, but nothing is open at 1:30 on a Sunday afternoon, so no cold drink. Just an image of what might have been!

We wait inthe shade fo Constanza to arrive, and when she does she offers to call our B&B who tell her that they are located down the hill. We'd been unable to connect last night. Off we go together and we are very warmly welcomed with many cold and hot drinks and cookies. This is lunch today. It turns out that Constanza's place is another 5 kms down the road and when our hosts let her know that she can stay here, she's over-joyed in a way we've learned only Constanza is capable of...great shouts and hugs all round! 

Now washed and resting (Annemarie having a very rare nap) our hosts will take us up to see Sutera shortly and also show us where we can get a well earned meal and cold beer. Lovely people, as we've come to find almost everywhere. Well except I guess for the old guy with the alleged rifle!

Hope all are well. Our very best wishes for our mate, Neil from down under who will leave home tomorrow to begin his own Camino in Spain. We will be following your adventures Neil! And in recognition of what you are about to experience, I'll end with the traditional,

Buen Camino Neil!