Day 30: Stage 25: Saint-Vincent, 30 kms, warm, 25°

29 Palms - Robert Plant🕺🎵 

No one said this experience would always be a pleasure, though so far most of the journey has been brilliant. One only kids themselves if they think otherwise. Late last night I made the decision to change up the route to protect my big toe as there were 3 significant climbs and descents. My plan was to miss the first two. I sat in bed and plotted way points on my route map until I was fairly satisfied that I had a viable alternate route, about 33 kms. My guide indicated that there were some bike trails on the south side of the river. 

I set my alarm for 6:00 and went to sleep. I was awake earlier so I was up and making a substantial breakfast. Four hard boiled eggs (2 to carry), 3 units of yogurt, some hydration water and a small bottle of juice that my host kindly left in the fridge. Oh, and a tea bag from the Britain portion of the walk. I knew those would come in handy! 

I was actually pretty excited to go out early. One of my favourite walking pleasures. I wasn’t disappointed. 

I’ve been missing these! 



I could have this experience every morning and never tire of it. 

I found the bike path. Unfortunately it was paved. Hard on the body, but it was at least fairly flat. So far so good.

Being on the ground I was able to make route adjustments on the fly. As a matter of fact by cutting across fields and making other decisions I actually shaved about 4 kms off the route I’d planned. 

Meanwhile the early morning sky continued to dazzle! 

I was basically following the Dora Baltie much of the day. It’s a good size water way carrying mostly glacial melt and agricultural runoff. Lots of waterfowl. But they are use to being shot at, so very unsettled whenever I tried to photograph them. 

Take off as soon as they spot me. Hey, these sticks aren’t rifles!

I learned to have my camera ready and zoomed as I stepped out from behind cover! 



I was impressed to find areas that were protected to ensure bird habitats stayed available for future generations. Ken, you’d love this. I took these photos from the bird blinds that had been installed along secondary paths (no bikes allowed). I was having fun! Though miles still to walk. 







Getting there. 



I can picture my Auntie Jean seeing this church and wanting to run over and check it out! I like to do that too, but today was all about toe survival!

I arrived at Fenis and had thought to stop and see this castle, but mass tourism arrived before me so I walked on. Looks cool, but I justified missing because of potential Covid risk and besides I’ve seen lots of these. 

It took me a while to sort out my route here, but I cut across some fields and I could see this little church in the distance so I headed that way to take stock of things. I’d planned a break in Fenis, but again the tourists had beat me to the available option. Walk on. 

A simple country church. Always so peaceful inside and a place to sit quietly and regroup. Locked, but there was a bench where I could sit and eat one of my hard boiled eggs. After my break I got up to walk and realized that my toe was not very happy. So I sat back down and swapped out my orthotic for a Solomon insert that came with the boot. I only need the orthotics for an old left foot metatarsal injury, and my right foot is fine without it. Actually with the injury long healed both feet are fine now. Anyway, my toe was happier for a while and so was I! 

I found a sign that told me that there was a different bike path along the canal. It was going my way, so I hitched a ride! 

There was a whole field of massive irrigation sprayers. Had I mentioned that the wind was building now? I knew this wasn’t going to end well! I battened down what I could and knowing the temperature was climbing I launched into the spray. Refreshing! 



I made a decision to cross the river at some point and rejoin the Via Francigena at Borgo Chambave. In order to go do I had to climb away from the river and walk a highway for several kilometres. No problem, but my toe was bugging me again. After fending off a few aggressive drivers with curses, Italian alarm gestures and shaking fists (I know, not very pilgrim of me, lol) I plugged in my music for the first time to cover the car and truck noise. I always find it gives me a lift. My play list eventually found Robert Plant’s 29 Palms and when that happens I always start to dance as I walk! Can’t help it. I felt better immediately! The Italian drivers must have thought I’d lost it, but they stopped trying to hit the lunatic on the side of the road dancing with his sticks!! I replayed the song three times. Davis P, do you know this tune?

I eventually rejoined the VF. It was nice to find some trail markers. Life is so much easier. 



Up I went, wind now howling at about 30 knots (tied my hat on under my chin) and the temperature was rising. 

In one of the small villages I stopped to admire all the art on this house. From the window on the right I was asked in Italian if I needed a stamp in my credential? Si! He left his lunch and came outside with his stamp. Annemarie, he messed it up and had to do a second one😂 We had a lovely chat and I put a comment in his book that he keeps out for the pilgrims. Nice stamp, and I have two to remember this encounter! 





More past control of the pass by some military group , but I was too tired to try and figure it out. 

I did read about the abandoned mountain villages though. Seems it started to happen generations ago with weather changes which seems strangely familiar today. The buildings were built of stone with the back wall the bedrock which of course adds more heat in winter and cool in summer. 

I arrived on the outskirts of Chátillon which is the end of this stage, but sadly not for me as I couldn’t locate a bed here. The good news was that the grapes were still on the vine. They were very tasty. 

I walked to light past a bunch of police on my way in and they didn’t seem concerned by my sweaty appearance even with my hat firmly tied firmly on to my head. I figured I must have looked quite the vagrant, but apparently not. Though I always get sort of concerned looks when I stop in bars or restaurants, until I pull off my pack, take my hat and sunglasses off and they can see I’m an old guy with short hair…where I still have it!

I finally stopped at a small place, ordered a plate of food, a Coke and a big bottle of water. I still had 3 kms to go. I also stopped at a grocery store and bought a Power Aid ( Rob, you know, the blue stuff) to start the rehydration, a really good Belgium chocolate bar and some salty Tuc crackers. 

All set I walked on in ever increasing head winds. There must be a front coming in. Thunder has made its presence known as I write tonight. It took me a while to figure out a route through the maze of highways and overpasses as I was now off the Francigena again. I’ll climb to rejoin it again tomorrow. 

Now still full from my late lunch, the chocolate bar and half the Tuc crackers I’m in no mood to go out to try and find a meal at 20:15. I still have nuts and raisins if I get hungry. I really don’t want to put any weight on😂  I get breakfast provided tomorrow morning, and hopefully it’s not the typical Italian breakfast which usually consists of sweet cakes and other sweet stuff. I guess I’ll see. Fingers crossed there will be some decent bread, cheese and some sort of dried sausage or ham.

As I’m already sort of on the next stage I have just 15 kms tomorrow (rated moderately hard) and an easy 16 on Sunday. I’ll put my thinner insoles in both boots and that will give my toes more room for a couple of days. The 10% compounded Voltern I always bring with me has already reduced the swelling in my big toe, so I think all will be good. As we always say, small adjustments! If 5hose adjustments don’t work, there’s always 29 Palms and a little dancing to raise the spirits!

Now to answer some texts and emails. Always welcome! 

Message to my father; please don’t worry about my toe. I’ve got this under control. I know you!! I’ve survived worse on the road. Love you Dad! 

If you haven’t taken the time to watch these route videos yet, perhaps try one out. They show my exact steps (except when I forget to take it off pause, sigh) and some additional photos supported by some nice music. It’s the first thing I create when I have my domestic things done, and I look forward to doing it each day.