As Rob lounged in bed dreaming of his morning coffee and pan de chocolate, yours truly was thumping along through the dark trying to find the start of today's walk. Later while Rob was drinking that second cup of coffee and considering whether or not to have more breakfast, yours truly was pounding up the side of the first climb of the day, an 1,800' wake-up. While Rob was busy with 'restorative' type stuff, yours truly was leaving it all out there on the second climb of the day, a very steep 1,650' climb. Who was having the best time? While for some, no likely most, what Rob was doing probably sounds pretty nice, but I know something you don't. The place we stayed in last night was as the Spanish put it, el dumpo! So for me I was happily out of the place early and doing exactly what I came here to do. As Rob put it, I was let off my leash.
I had to wait to see this today, but here is the morning sun...already up.
So as I said, I was off in the dark and looking for a way forward. I was feeling pretty good today with nice soft brand new smart wool socks on my feet. Yup, I know. Just the best! I was saving them for the coast, but with a long day ahead and three climbs I figured my feet deserved some pampering.
So off to climb. Up...
and up...
And up.
Basically to the edge of the clouds that touched the summits.
And of course what went up had to come down...the fun part!
Until I was low enough to start to enter the small villages. It was still early and all the dogs were sitting there waiting for Peregrino snacks. This one was down right nasty.
And these fellows, when they saw me were a close second. I still haven't had to hit a dog yet in Spain...record in tact, but they weren't very pleasant. Maybe like me they missed their green tea this morning?
I had to get by some nasty dogs, but once by I was rewarded with a beautiful trail...
and then a lovely very old little village at the bottom of the first descent.
And a Roman bridge in beautiful repair. Excellent!
And a nice little church.
Believe me, this town had it all. I almost choked when I thought I saw Rob on the trail waiting for me in his resting pose. 
Then the fun was over and the second climb began in earnest immediately. 
There was a beautiful, lonely plateau at the top. Completely alone.
However, it was time to descend as quickly as possible as Rob had promised me a pan de chocolate!
Rob had arranged a ride as part of his recovery and he spent a couple of hours amusing himself...having fled the dreaded hotel, where they make you walk 5 kms for your supper. I kid you not. Just ask Rob.
I arrive.
Find one pan de chocolate as Rob claims the town was sold out. I'm suspicious, but because I'm a perigrino we share it. Then we walk out of town chatting about the morning...and miss our turn. Oops! Back we go and then we're off.
This photo was taken at the bottom of the third and last climb. It's a distance marker this time...131 kms to Santiago. Almost there...not.
Rob makes a new friend and wants a photo.
It's so hot we consider a swim.
We goof around as usual.
Slogged through the water and mud that's apparently here no matter how hot and dry it gets.
And then we are in...this nice place is right across the street from out hostel. 
A bite of tapas with a cold beer at the bar and then on to complete our domestic stuff. A great day with loads of energy! More fun tomorrow for sure...Rob tells me that he plans to walk!
Buen Camino!
Hey Geoff
ReplyDeleteYou sound like the Energiser bunny (not sure if you had those ads in Canada, but we had advertisements for Energiser batteries which featured several toy bunnies running and doing pushups and stuff like that - each powered by a different brand of battery. The Energiser bunny outlasted them all - still going and still smiling when all others were left by the wayside). We're really impressed with what you've done today - 38kms, after days of walking - maybe they should make this an Olympic event - there's a gold medal for Canada, for sure!
We went to Pine Island yesterday as we planned, and had a delightful stroll along the Murrumbidgee which was in full spate. We didn't see the snake or the echidna, but we were greeted by a few of our kangaroo friends. We both felt our spirits expand as we came to this country and walked along. The poet John O'Donahue in his 'For the Traveller' advises travellers to 'take the time to bless your going forth' - and this day along the river felt like that to us. It feels good to have visited this place which feels like the place where our Caminos really begin.
We're conscious that Annemarie begins to wend her way to Santiago pretty soon. No doubt she'll have sussed out the best tapas for when you two walk in ... clever planning to have an advance party! And of course, you'll have sussed it out in Coimbra when we see you! By the way, Ken, Geoff and Annemarie, the kangaroos were very impressed with my Tilley hat, as was I!
Have a well deserved rest this evening (and maybe get Rob to do a push-up for every kilometre he didn't walk, and 10 for every pain au chocolat he ate!)
Buen camino,
Neil and Sarah
Ha! Not to energized after two days of uphill slogging, but thanks for the thought. Yes we have those commercials in Canada too.
DeleteSo nice that you were able to fit Pine Valley in. You told us your story about beginning your Camino there, so we know how special it is for you. We really liked it too. All those critters! Great day that was.
You will be flying soon. Such a long way. You sound ready for your Camino. Of course the usual anxiety will be there, but that will begin to leave you both as soon as you step on the plane and will disappear entirely with your first steps out of Lisbo. Very soon now, you two!
Bom Caminho!
Sounds like a great day of walking fast and far. And climbing, avoiding snarling dogs, and (apparently) getting some incomplete or biased information regarding the number of pans de chocolate that were in town before Rob's arrival.
ReplyDeleteIs that a Parador across the street from your hostel?
I'm reading a 50-year-old book about walking by an English author. Most of the chapters discuss English writers who walked--and there were a lot of them. When I'm finished I'll blog about it. Then the semester will begin.
Neil, good to hear that the kangaroos liked your hat. I would've thought they were above mundane things like fashion, but what do I know?
¡Buen Camino!
Hey, not a parador though there is a very expensive one in town. Never saw it. That's a monestery that only is open to the public two days per week. Unfortunately we weren't there when it was open, so just a few photos. The grounds behind are all soccer pitches NDP were in use when we wandered by.
DeleteLook forward as always to your book review. Never know where you find all these gems! I know just how much you are looking forward to school again;-). Best!